86 C20 Slow build "Chuck"

[chillman88]

Hey all, figured I'd put up a build thread. I'm usually very slow when it comes to builds but I'll be updating the thread.

Picked up an 86 c20 with 155k miles on it for a song, no dance required! $350! Got it home and put a new ignition switch in since the P.O. lost the key. Last registered and inspected in 03, he says it was last driven about 5 years ago. Hooked it up to a gas can and plugged up all the vacuum leaks and voila! It starts first crank now!

Floor pans are very bad (almost not there) so I will be looking for a cab at some point. It'll be a good truck though!

350 with a quadrajet, sm465 4 speed, P.O. said it has 2.73 gears but I think he meant 3.73, i'll check the codes today.

I need a voltmeter and an oil pressure gauge, P.O. put them in his other truck.

I drove it off the car dolly, but the front brakes are partially locked up. I also have a brake light on in the dash so maybe the prop valve is just stuck closed? We'll see.

[chillman88]

So It's not 3.73s and no factory limited slip. Maybe it was added, or maybe the old man was thinking of another truck :P



Hard to see but teaser shot of the towing mirrors I'll be putting on it.

[chillman88]

I pulled the passenger side wheel apart, I think once I replace the slider pins and bushings and clean it up a bit the front brakes will be fine. Looked at the master cylinder, I think I've got a blown rear line, rear reservoir is empty. That would explain the brake light!

At least the passenger wheel bearings look new. Either way they have been taken care of, the grease was fresh looking. I'm repacking them anyway.

Also figured out why the power steering reservoir is empty. The line is leaking very bad at the gearbox. I filled it up and it's empty again.

[f.monroe]

Most likely problem, if the bushings and cleaning doesn't fix it, is a collapsed brake hose. They deteoriate over time and collapse on the inside. They hold pressure on the caliper once the brakes are depressed. If the brake is locking up try loosening the bleeder screw. If it unlocks then the hose is collapsed.
3.42's will be a good gear if you aren't using an overdrive trans.

[chillman88]

Yeah I'll probably end up replacing the hoses. I think it might just be the bushings though, they're pretty stuck. I'm more worried about having to dump $100 on calipers when I snap the bleeders trying to open them.

I've got 3.42s in my 1500 and they suck for towing lol I'm hoping to eventually swap in an nv4500 and some 4.10s but that won't be for a few years. I really wouldn't want anything lower than 3.42 without overdrive though!

[chillman88]

Where do I find the option code for the brake system? I don't see one on the list in the glovebox. I would like to know which it is and there is like 4 choices.

[chillman88]

Well the bushings DEFINITELY needed to be replaced...





I've still got it apart. I'm thinking i'll probably end up getting new calipers before I put it on the road again. I hope to get the bearings repacked tomorrow and back together, I'll put the front brakes back together too and start looking for the rear line that is blown.

[LT7A]

Looks like you got a good deal!

[chillman88]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Looks like you got a good deal!

Yeah I think so. It's got it's issues but the motor alone is worth at least what I paid. I'm hoping to get it roadworthy and work on a partial restoration little by little.

[chillman88]

Hit a little snag yesterday. Apparently my brother in law isn't as thorough as I though.





So now I'm not sure what i'm going to do. I might hold off for a new frame. In the mean time, plan is to pull the bed and wire wheel what's left of the frame. I work at a fab shop so I know I can get it repaired... if there's enough metal left to weld to.

[74CustomK20]

Eeewww

[chillman88]

Originally Posted by 74CustomK20

Eeewww

Exactly. I'm contemplating getting some square tube and completely replacing the rear half of the frame.

[chillman88]

Well I found a frame and lucky for me it's a 4wd frame with axles. As soon as I can scare up the money for it I'll be killing two birds with one stone. Good frame and two steps closer to a 4wd swap!

[chillman88]

Well I should be picking up the new frame next week. Only issue is the front axle is gone. Does anybody know if axles from a 71 will bolt in? A friend of mine has one I can get cheap.

If I can't get an axle cheap and quick, I'll be bolting in the 2wd crossmember until I can. Any tips would be appreciated!

[chillman88]

Finally got a new frame. Very solid except for this small crossmember brace below



Does anyone know if this little brace is available aftermarket? It's just inboard of the front hanger for the rear springs.

[chillman88]

Long time no update. Since I've got a frame now I haven't had a chance to do anything with it. Figures. Top it off with I'll be moving sometime this year so it'll be a slow build for sure.

I've been thinking about it and working out the details in my head. The engine will end up in my 69 so I'm planning on putting in a 4.8l from a 99 that my buddy rolled backed by a 4l80e. I hope to do it nice, but driver/workable nice, no show car here. I want to use a 4l80e because if I end up needing to tow anything it should fair far better than a 4l60e, besides, this is a 3/4ton...

I want to do the truck in a dark blue, hopefully metallic but I don't know for sure yet. The floor of the bed is shot so I toyed with the idea of building a flatbed for it, but my wife's reaction to the thought made me think about my buddy's advice. If it's salvageable, I'll cut the floor out of the box, replace the cross supports, and deck it with wood. Done right I think it will look good, and still be usable if i need to haul anything.

I wanted to put 4.10s in it, but I think I'll keep the 3.42s for now. I've got another truck if I have to pull anything and the 3.42s will net me better highway mileage. I'm hoping to retire my 97 to trail/mud duty so this would turn into my daily driver.

Being mostly a street truck, I think I'll end up with a Dana 44 front axle. Everyone wants two arms, a leg, and your firstborn for a Dana 60. I doubt I'll have an issue the way I plan on running it. She will probably end up with either 235/85/16 or 285/75/16 for rubber. I'd like to run a set if the PYO rims from a gmt800 but I've always liked the old white steel wheels with the dog dish hubcaps so the plan will be to blast and paint the existing ones for now.

[daddyjeep]

Sounds like a pretty good plane to me. I'll watch for updates.

[chillman88]

Well I was going to update my previous post but it looks like I can't. I'm just adding ideas/plans so I'll be able to find them again when we get going.

The bank has all the paperwork for the new house and they're scheduling the assessment so I should know before long what's up with that. I can't really justify tearing a truck apart right now since I'll have to move it in pieces that way.

Anywho, I've been browsing and it looks like the 64" leafs from a newer truck should be relatively simple to fit in. I'll have to drill holes no matter what because the 79 frame doesn't have the holes for the 56" springs, just the 52". I'll pick up a set from a 3500 with overloads. I'd like to put in a Blazer tank in the rear, but I'll have to figure out the filler neck if I do that.

Toying with tire ideas, I looked at a review of the Dick Cepek Extreme Country tires and I'm thinking they'll be a good choice in the 255/85r16 flavor.

Hey, if I plan it all out, at least I'll have an idea ahead of time!