Door Wiring Loom

[cruisinthe34]

I have a '71 stepper, and am adding power windows and LED outside mirrors. I am trying to locate the best place to place the Spring loom between the door and the 'A' pillar.

Not having really investigated too deeply, Is there a DOUBLE wall in the door on the front end toward the 'A' Piller ?

[70STOVEBOLT]

Yes, there is, so you will have to drill through both to run the wiring harness. I used a one inch hole saw for mine. I don't remember what the boots came from, I bought them off ebay a couple years ago, here are some pics, may help you with location. Sorry for the sideways pics.

[70STOVEBOLT]

In the second pic down on the right, I drilled a 1/2 inch hole to run the wires through. You cannot see it when sitting in the seat. The second pic down on the left shows the boot fullly extended with the door open.

[cruisinthe34]

Thanks for the Insights. I've ordered a set of Nu-Relic power windows, and they include a set of those rubber looms. I have a set of the straight across stainless 'spring' conduits I would love to use, but they need to be anchored on the inside of the door.

[cruisinthe34]

NOW I finally understand what you meant. Looks like you fished to wire(s) up to the vent and passed them up through the new 1/2" hole under the dash. Saves cutting the kick panel. I like it.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by cruisinthe34

NOW I finally understand what you meant. Looks like you fished to wire(s) up to the vent and passed them up through the new 1/2" hole under the dash. Saves cutting the kick panel. I like it.

Correct. Through the kick panel vent is the only option besides drilling a hole.
The white wire that you see coming out of the kick panel is for the dome light switch. I will reroute that one through the new hole also.

One other thing I would suggest. The Nu-Relics kit will not come with relays in the wiring harness. It would be a good idea to add a factory style relay (later trucks, ours never came with power windows), or there is a mod you can do with four generic aftermarket relays that you can buy for about $6 each. This will give you full battery power to operate the windows and it will speed them up. I recently bought a Nu-Relics wiring harness and switches from another member that I did the relay mod to and am going to install it with my factory window regulators that I converted to power. There is a thread here on that as well, very easy to do, and does not cost much, the motor, a little time and some welding supplies. If you want to do the relay mod, I can post a diagram of how it wires up.

[cruisinthe34]

If you have the time I would appreciate information on the relay setup. I have Nu-Relics in my '41 F*rd pickup, but they are both direct wired to the circuit board (Ron Francis). I can easily reach the window crank switch across the smaller cab. In the '71, not so much, so I was going to wire both windows to the drivers door, but that CAN cost in window performance. I have Specialty POwer windows in my '34 and have the switches wired so both can work from drivers door, and it does cost in passenger window performance.

[70STOVEBOLT]

I posted a link to the diagram I used below. I marked the wires on the diagram with the colors from the Nu-Relics harness that I have, yours should have the same colors. If your relays come with a pigtail, the colors on the relay connector may vary. Mine had red (terminal 87), yellow (terminal 86), blue (terminal 30), white (terminal 85), and black (terminal 87a). If there is not a pigtail, just wire it like the diagram is marked on both driver and passenger side. You can tie the ground from the relay to the ground on the N-R harness for the drivers side, but you will need to ground the passenger side separately unless you want to run a wire all the way from the passenger side to the driver side to tie into the existing ground on the N-R harness. If you want I can post pics of my harness tonight after work. I have not installed my harness yet. I also cut the harness in half and shortened it about 2 feet, as it is very long. I will reconnect it once I fish the wires through the cab and doors.

[cruisinthe34]

Thanks '70...... That will be VERY helpful. I also found this detailed setup you may find interesting:

http://www.78ta.com/HTAF/index.php?topic=40530.0

[70STOVEBOLT]

Steve, I found that one as well, but it is for a single switch. If you are not running a switch on the passenger side, that would be fine. The Trans Am has a single switch mounted on the console. I thought about that but I would have to block off the holes for the window cranks and I thought mounting the switches in the door would make for a cleaner look with stock door panels. Also, I don't have a console.