rear drum on 61 C10 won't come off

[scottmitchellrose]

It's been sitting for 10-15 years in a field, so pretty rusty. I have the rim off, sprayed with penetrating oil, tried a crow bar. I can't 'feel' the adjusting spring from the back. Any ideas how to take the drum off so I can re-do the brakes? Thanks, Scott

[bpmcgee]

Quite probably the pad is catching on the ridge of the drum. Make sure to turn the adjuster all the way in to withdraw the pad.

[Brad54]

This works every time for me (and I have taken off a LOT of seized drums over the years... destroyed a lot of them before figuring this out).

On the back of the drum there are two "nail heads." These are the pins that hold the little coil springs that keep the shoes in place.

Pry the head away from the backing plate, and cut the head off. Do this for both of them.

The shoes will no longer be anchored to the drum at the sides or bottom--just at the top.

You can then pull the drum off with the shoes, and they'll eventually pull out of the wheel cylinder at the top.

-Brad

[padresag]

Originally Posted by scottmitchellrose

It's been sitting for 10-15 years in a field, so pretty rusty. I have the rim off, sprayed with penetrating oil, tried a crow bar. I can't 'feel' the adjusting spring from the back. Any ideas how to take the drum off so I can re-do the brakes? Thanks, Scott

sometimes the are also bolts (1/4 or 5/!6") holding the drums unto the axle flanges. there are times that the drum freezes to the axle flange (id of the drum) and heat around the area(drum) with a torch will usually solve that problem
ron

[Captainfab]

If you are working on the front, it is quite possible that the drum is still riveted to the hub as was done at the factory.

[scottmitchellrose]

Thanks VERY much- your tips are really helpful. I was able to get it off. I unfortunately twisted/ had to cut the brake line just before the bracket that holds down the flex hose in front of the rear passenger tire- along the frame. I 'spliced it' with new brake line and flanged them. Will this hold? It's a single line master cylinder. Last thing I want is to endanger myself- or anyone else! It 'seems' like it will work... but I want an expert opinion- whether I need to buy a new line set at 150 from jim carter's or somewhere else. I have a photo if you have an email address- I can send it. I use scottmitchellrose@gmail.com

[scottmitchellrose]

I have another question about the brake line if you have time. can i email you a photo/ the question? i'm at scottmitchellrose@gmail.com
Thanks a lot,
Scott

[scottmitchellrose]

darned adjusters are all seized

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by scottmitchellrose

Thanks VERY much- your tips are really helpful. I was able to get it off. I unfortunately twisted/ had to cut the brake line just before the bracket that holds down the flex hose in front of the rear passenger tire- along the frame. I 'spliced it' with new brake line and flanged them. Will this hold? It's a single line master cylinder. Last thing I want is to endanger myself- or anyone else! It 'seems' like it will work... but I want an expert opinion- whether I need to buy a new line set at 150 from jim carter's or somewhere else. I have a photo if you have an email address- I can send it. I use scottmitchellrose@gmail.com

Has to be a double flange. I wouldn't trust anything different. If it's been sitting for years the whole hydraulic system is questionable at best anyhow due to contamination and rust. Brake fluid is a moisture magnet. It can absorb humidity. Take the time and work that system over top to bottom. Then you can drive more confidently. I converted mine to a split system. Cheap and easy. Search the site for more info.

[cv65]

DO NOT!!! mess around with a single system,go at least a double with new lines,sounds like time to redo the whole system,you will save yourself and maybe others a whole lot of problems. imho

[padresag]

a double flaring tool is quite inexpensive. do a few practise runs first so that you can properly determine the height that the tubing should stick up before you start the flaring procedure. it is not difficult. always form your bends over something so as to not kink the lines.
ron

[vince1]

I'm not sure for 1/4" but 3/16" flared lines of various lengths are plentiful in the auto supply stores.