Need some help with tuning.

[clinebarger]

You can check for a wire in cavity 17 of C2 before pulling out the multimeter.
Yes, Continuity/Zero OHM's.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

You can check for a wire in cavity 17 of C2 before pulling out the multimeter.
Yes, Continuity/Zero OHM's.

Will do!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

You can check for a wire in cavity 17 of C2 before pulling out the multimeter.
Yes, Continuity/Zero OHM's.

No wire in 17 of C2. Looks like the wire from my EFI harness labeled "ac request" is just a pass through wire just as you stated.

[clinebarger]

Pin in a wire & see if we can get the request working. Or you can wire it like I stated earlier. It's up too you Rob.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Pin in a wire & see if we can get the request working. Or you can wire it like I stated earlier. It's up too you Rob.

UPDATE:

I finally got the beast running. After making sure all the essential systems were up and operating correctly, Buck68 came over and charged the AC.

After vacuuming the system down, Buck started charging the system. After one can of freon, the compressor started kicking on and off. After putting in approximately 2.5 cans, compressor was cyling and maintaining 40 degrees out the center vent with a 75 degree ambient temp and the windows down (they are not installed yet, ). The high and low pressures were matching what Vintage are called for with the high never getting above 250 psi. The #1 and #2 fans appeared to be coming on individually based on the pressures in the tune that you recommended up above. And it appeared that the idle was being adjusted accordingly.

My setup:
3 wire truck pressure transducer connected to plug from Speartech harness
12volt a/c signal from the VintageAir to Speartech harness green a/c request wire
Two wire (green and black) plug to factory 2005 compressor from Speartech harness
NO binary switch (in dryer not wired)
Blue/Green PCM OS 12587811 & system 12591524
Compressor type - ANALOG

Everything appears to be working correctly. My only real question/concern is do I have over pressure protection??? What is the safest way to check for this? TIA

[Hart_Rod]

Some more reading on this: http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...831#post458831

[ls1nova71]

If everything seems to be working, and you for some reason don't have any over pressure protection, or you are afraid you wont, you could just wire that binary switch in line to the compressor.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

If everything seems to be working, and you for some reason don't have any over pressure protection, or you are afraid you wont, you could just wire that binary switch in line to the compressor.

Sorry for the poorly worded question. Maybe this is better, "How was over pressure protection accomplished in a 2005 truck?" That is how much EFI harness is supposed to be wired. Is there a way to check for over pressure without damaging anything? I do have the binary switch, but prefer not to wire it in if it is not necessary. Thanks for the help.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

UPDATE:

I finally got the beast running. After making sure all the essential systems were up and operating correctly, Buck68 came over and charged the AC.

After vacuuming the system down, Buck started charging the system. After one can of freon, the compressor started kicking on and off. After putting in approximately 2.5 cans, compressor was cyling and maintaining 40 degrees out the center vent with a 75 degree ambient temp and the windows down (they are not installed yet, ). The high and low pressures were matching what Vintage are called for with the high never getting above 250 psi. The #1 and #2 fans appeared to be coming on individually based on the pressures in the tune that you recommended up above. And it appeared that the idle was being adjusted accordingly.

My setup:
3 wire truck pressure transducer connected to plug from Speartech harness
12volt a/c signal from the VintageAir to Speartech harness green a/c request wire
Two wire (green and black) plug to factory 2005 compressor from Speartech harness
NO binary switch (in dryer not wired)
Blue/Green PCM OS 12587811 & system 12591524
Compressor type - ANALOG

Everything appears to be working correctly. My only real question/concern is do I have over pressure protection??? What is the safest way to check for this? TIA

I guess the confusion for Rob's set up is over the use of the 3 wire pressure transducer vs the binary switch. The bottom line is that the compressor is cycling per Vintage Air's pressure recommendations and would only do so if there is input based on "high side" line pressure, so the over pressure protection is present. This is the first time I've charged a system with the transducer vs a binary or trinary switch, but after charging it and watching it work as it's supposed to I am convinced that the transducer from the 2005 truck system functions the same way the binary or trinary switch functions in the Vintage Air (and older production car) systems.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

UPDATE:

I finally got the beast running. After making sure all the essential systems were up and operating correctly, Buck68 came over and charged the AC.

After vacuuming the system down, Buck started charging the system. After one can of freon, the compressor started kicking on and off. After putting in approximately 2.5 cans, compressor was cyling and maintaining 40 degrees out the center vent with a 75 degree ambient temp and the windows down (they are not installed yet, ). The high and low pressures were matching what Vintage are called for with the high never getting above 250 psi. The #1 and #2 fans appeared to be coming on individually based on the pressures in the tune that you recommended up above. And it appeared that the idle was being adjusted accordingly.

My setup:
3 wire truck pressure transducer connected to plug from Speartech harness
12volt a/c signal from the VintageAir to Speartech harness green a/c request wire
Two wire (green and black) plug to factory 2005 compressor from Speartech harness
NO binary switch (in dryer not wired)
Blue/Green PCM OS 12587811 & system 12591524
Compressor type - ANALOG

Everything appears to be working correctly. My only real question/concern is do I have over pressure protection??? What is the safest way to check for this? TIA

Did you ever get a valid A/C request?

The Compressor is cycling for Evaporator Freeze-Up protection, VA units have a temp probe in the Evaporator Core, If Evaporator temp drops to far below freezing.....The Gen IV ECU will cycle the Compressor.

If the PCM is not is not controlling the Compressor Clutch via a relay OR your not wired through the VA Binary......You have NO over pressure protection!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Did you ever get a valid A/C request?

The Compressor is cycling for Evaporator Freeze-Up protection, VA units have a temp probe in the Evaporator Core, If Evaporator temp drops to far below freezing.....The Gen IV ECU will cycle the Compressor.

If the PCM is not is not controlling the Compressor Clutch via a relay OR your not wired through the VA Binary......You have NO over pressure protection!

Sorry I missed this post Chris. My scanner doesn't show a valid a/c request. I didn't know that the VA Gen IV would cycle the compressor. I'm going to put a test light on it and see if that's what's going on.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Did you ever get a valid A/C request?

The Compressor is cycling for Evaporator Freeze-Up protection, VA units have a temp probe in the Evaporator Core, If Evaporator temp drops to far below freezing.....The Gen IV ECU will cycle the Compressor.

If the PCM is not is not controlling the Compressor Clutch via a relay OR your not wired through the VA Binary......You have NO over pressure protection!

Binary switched wired in per your instructions! I think I can cross the a/c off of my list, . Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.

Since I already gunked this thread up, one more question . I added a Corvette servo to my stock HD 4L60E. Is there anything I need to change in the tune to take account for this OR is it just plug and play?

[clinebarger]

No tuning needed for a "Vette Servo", However......A larger "3rd Clutch" orifice in the Separator Plate helps take full advantage of the larger servo but not absolutely needed.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

No tuning needed for a "Vette Servo", However......A larger "3rd Clutch" orifice in the Separator Plate helps take full advantage of the larger servo but not absolutely needed.

How hard is it to change that?

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

How hard is it to change that?

Dropping the Valve Body, Not sure how "hard" it is to most people?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Dropping the Valve Body, Not sure how "hard" it is to most people?

Thanks Chris. I've dropped the valve body in a 700R4 before so, I'm guessing the 4L is similar? If so, the next time I change the fluid, I will do the upgrade. Also, quick question on the type of fluid. I know the recommended fluid is Dexron III, do you see a problem with running Dexron VI? Take care,

R

[clinebarger]

Dexron VI will be fine, So will a synthetic Dexron III, 4L60E's are not picky.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Dexron VI will be fine, So will a synthetic Dexron III, 4L60E's are not picky.

Thanks for the quick reply. The transmission came out of a 2006 Tahoe and only has 50 miles on it, but it has been sitting for 10 years. I changed the fluid and filter. So far it seems like it shifting well, any other suggestions on the break-in? I also removed the gear selector indicator and deleted that out of the tune (my aftermarket harness did not have a plug). Should that cause any problem?

OBTW, how's the camaro coming along.....:, , .

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

No tuning needed for a "Vette Servo", However......A larger "3rd Clutch" orifice in the Separator Plate helps take full advantage of the larger servo but not absolutely needed.

Is this the servo check valve you were talking about? I found this lying around on one of my shelves.....

[clinebarger]

I use that on all my 4L6xE builds! I will post the "Updated Directions" as that looks to be an older part, And I will post the Orifice sizes as well sometime this week (All my notes are at work).

The only problem a missing NBSS will cause is you cannot do a "Cam-Crank Relearn" procedure without grounding some pins so the PCM knows the trans is in Park, If you don't have a Cam-Crank variation trouble code.....Don't concern yourself Rob!

The only part that needs "Seating in" is the 2-4 Band, The 1-2 shift should be pretty snappy with a Truck Accumulator Valve, If the 1-2 shift is still a little soft......Avoid full throttle blast 'til the Band is seated. On a N/A engine it wouldn't be a concern, But that Maggie makes massive amounts of Torque!!!!

The Camaro is coming along, The L92 is built & ready to go in & I will see how long the 7.5" differential holds......

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

I use that on all my 4L6xE builds! I will post the "Updated Directions" as that looks to be an older part, And I will post the Orifice sizes as well sometime this week (All my notes are at work).

The only problem a missing NBSS will cause is you cannot do a "Cam-Crank Relearn" procedure without grounding some pins so the PCM knows the trans is in Park, If you don't have a Cam-Crank variation trouble code.....Don't concern yourself Rob!

The only part that needs "Seating in" is the 2-4 Band, The 1-2 shift should be pretty snappy with a Truck Accumulator Valve, If the 1-2 shift is still a little soft......Avoid full throttle blast 'til the Band is seated. On a N/A engine it wouldn't be a concern, But that Maggie makes massive amounts of Torque!!!!

The Camaro is coming along, The L92 is built & ready to go in & I will see how long the 7.5" differential holds......

Looking forward to the update, thanks! No trouble codes and the everything seems to be running well. I won't be doing any hard driving or WOT tuning for a while, just mainly driving around and datalogging STFT and LTFT. How long does it take before the 2-4 bands to seat?