12-16-2016, 05:46 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
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Fender and rearend
Hi! I'm hoping I can get some advice
Going through my truck and I was trying not to get into the rearend yet. I was starting to put the brakes back on and realized that the axel seals are leaking. I pulled the hubs and ordered new seals and bearings. I'm now worried that the pinion seal probably needs to be replaced as well. Can I replace the seal without messing up the gear spacing? I'm trying not to take it completely apart seeing how I've never been into a rear end before. Truck is a 1962 GMC 1500 with a Dana 60 Also I'm looking for a right fender. I have a reproduction fender but I'd really rather have a real fender, reproduction is a joke! If anyone has a fender that is in decent shape I'd like to take a look at it. My truck has original mint green paint and It would be awesome to get a fender in the same color, trying to keep as much original patina as possible. Central California area but I'd pay for shipping if needed. Any help would be great. Thanks!
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=675881 1972 C-10 SWB 1962 3/4 ton LWB 2011 GMC Sierra LML Z71 crewcab shortbed |
12-16-2016, 06:06 PM | #2 |
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Location: Pa
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Re: Fender and rearend
from what I remember the pinion nut is a crush washer type. This means you torque it to specs and it crushes, so yes you would be messing with the pinion but it is fairly easy to replace if you have a torque wrench to do it properly.
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12-17-2016, 12:27 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Solvang, Ca 93463
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Re: Fender and rearend
Dana 60 does not have a crush washer, it has shims that set the preload on the pinon. You would have to pull it completely apart to put a new seal in however if the seal is leaking i'm sure you'll find worn out parts. Better to be ready to actually rebuild that rear, you really won't want to pull it all apart twice. If it's not making any driveline noise just keep the fluid full and run it until that special day LOL
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12-17-2016, 12:54 AM | #4 |
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Location: joshua tree ca.
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Re: Fender and rearend
To replace the pinion seal you just need to remove the yoke pry the old seal out and install a new one then reinstall the yoke and retorque ... You DO NOT have to pull it completely down
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12-17-2016, 12:57 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: joshua tree ca.
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Re: Fender and rearend
Here is a break down of a DANA 60 https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hm...s/3691111.html
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12-20-2016, 11:05 PM | #6 |
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Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
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Re: Fender and rearend
Thanks guys!
I think I'm going to just leave it alone for now and hope it doesn't puke oil too badly. I'm changing the hub seals and bearings for sure, already have the Timken parts. I want to go through the rearend completely at some point but just hoping to get some miles on her first.
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=675881 1972 C-10 SWB 1962 3/4 ton LWB 2011 GMC Sierra LML Z71 crewcab shortbed |
12-24-2016, 05:26 AM | #7 |
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Location: Kelowna, B.C, Canada
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Re: Fender and rearend
Here it is in simple form:
To replace the seal you will just need to remove the yoke. This will mess with the pinion bearing preload but it's pretty easy to get back into spec. But to replace the bearing you will need to remove the entire carrier and pinion and use a press to get the old bearing off and put the new one on, this will mess up the pinion bearing preload and the gear spacing (pinion depth).
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