Looking for a Ls oil pan swap guide

[Jmh68C10]

Swapping a f-body oil pan on my ls3 for my swap. Don't know why I thought it the swap would be a little more straight forward but after researching some I've found that you need to have some alignment tools as the positions is critical. Does anyone have a link to a step by step with torque specs to complete this oil pan swap?

[KenAdams]

No alignment tools are necessary as long as you have a bell housing.

-Attach the oil pickup tube. 106in/lbs for bolts, 18ft/lbs for windage tray nuts
-Mount the bell housing to the block. 37ft/lbs
-Attach the oil pan to block hand tight, and oil pan to bell housing bolts slightly more than hand tight
-Torque rear M6 oil pan bolts to 106in/lbs
-Torque bell housing to oil pan bolts to 37ft/lbs
-Torque remaining M8 oil pan bolts to 18ft/lbs

[Jmh68C10]

Originally Posted by KenAdams

No alignment tools are necessary as long as you have a bell housing.

-Attach the oil pickup tube. 106in/lbs for bolts, 18ft/lbs for windage tray nuts
-Mount the bell housing to the block. 37ft/lbs
-Attach the oil pan to block hand tight, and oil pan to bell housing bolts slightly more than hand tight
-Torque rear M6 oil pan bolts to 106in/lbs
-Torque bell housing to oil pan bolts to 37ft/lbs
-Torque remaining M8 oil pan bolts to 18ft/lbs

Thank you for the torque specs! Problem is the engine and trans are separated at the moment.

[ls1nova71]

You really only need the alignment tools to install the front and rear covers. Since you are just changing the oil pan, all you have to do is put a straight edge on the back of the block and make sure the back of the oil pan is even with it. The reason it's critical is because the transmission bolts to both the engine block and oil pan, and if one sticks out further than the other, you run the risk of putting something in a bind when you tighten down the bolts. If you were running an older trans, like a 350 turbo or 700r4, then oil pan alignment wouldn't be a problem at all.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

You really only need the alignment tools to install the front and rear covers. Since you are just changing the oil pan, all you have to do is put a straight edge on the back of the block and make sure the back of the oil pan is even with it. The reason it's critical is because the transmission bolts to both the engine block and oil pan, and if one sticks out further than the other, you run the risk of putting something in a bind when you tighten down the bolts. If you were running an older trans, like a 350 turbo or 700r4, then oil pan alignment wouldn't be a problem at all.

I read a design change/improvement in the front and rear covers make them a little less sensitive to their exact placement. I bought new ones for my LQ4 project so I hope that's true. I may also see if I can beg borrow or steal the alignement tools for assembly. An oil leak on my new engine would break my heart.

[Jmh68C10]

Two Questions

Do all ls engines have a factory riveted gasket ? If so this concerns me since the one that came off my L94 isn't riveted.

Am I correct by only running a small bead of Black RTV in the 4 corners gasket to block?

[spectral]

Originally Posted by Jmh68C10

Do all ls engines have a factory riveted gasket ? If so this concerns me since the one that came off my L94 isn't riveted.

I believe factory was riveted, but aftermarket aren't, so its possible it is on its 2nd (or 3rd ) gasket already.