"Geronimo" 54' 3100 LS built in PA

[99 to Life]

yah seems to be part of my issue. Just looked at my invoice and looked up part number on Cpp's site. 425lb springs are for bigblock, 350 lb for small block. This is going to suck having to swap these out. Prolly get hosed and have to buy the springs, which sux cause I'm already stretching the parts budget on this truck. not to mention, there is a slight chance I may buy drop spindles too. oh well it to be expected with builds.

[lower50's]

You could always put some cement in the frame lol

[99 to Life]

CPP says don't change them. Once they settle I'll like them. So.... I guess I give it a try and or just cut a coil.

[MIKESAD50]

I don't see them settling that much.

[99 to Life]

3-10

So after many many hours of researching and emailing vintage air blah blah blah. I was almost going to get the GenIV sure fit kit. Kinda glad so far that I didn't. It would have been around 15-1600 after i got the kit, trinary switch and bracket for the LS. not to mention I'd have to get the right compressor pulley.
So I went with the Compact kit. Its heat and AC. The evaporator I have here cost $465. I should be able to piece everything together and be well below the surefit price. not to mention...... the surefit kit seems very cheesy. they have all the hoses blowing through that big stock hole in firewall and have a "plastic" cover. then they have some huge piece of plastic or metal that goes on the firewall as if its a support of some kind. they say just put some silicone on it. Dude after spending 1500 plus dollars, I'm not putting plastic and metal or whatever on my firewall. no thanks.

So enough of the rant. Their brackets are literally worthless. So I built one that got the unit in there for now. I still want to add a bracket the ties into the front of the unit. Overall I'm happy with the placement. Have plenty of room off firewall. I just ordered a bulk head so it will look very nice on the outside. So I have some more holes to fill on the firewall since I'm not using them.

[iowaboynca]

I'm thinking of doing a pieced together set up on my A/C as well...something along the lines of what Skymangs did on his build. Looking forward to how you complete this project.

[Flysocal]

Pretty much what I did. You should get the plastic glove box they sell for around 30. Much better than the stock box.

[99 to Life]

was honestly dreading doing AC on this build. but... it's not mine and he has to have it. I knew nothing about AC systems, so its been alot of research. I'll post as much as I can as I go. One downfall with trying to save money on piecing stuff together is... lots of time finding deals and learning what all you need. The log list of parts gets insanely large when you build an engine from scratch or piece things together. Its alot to manage as far as money but also timing of getting stuff in.

[99 to Life]

yah I'm gonna need the smaller glovebox. I bought this box way long ago when I was just ordering random interior stuff.

[47 Fasttoys]

Hey, how come I haven't seen that cool radio block off cover in any of your dash picks?
Rob

[99 to Life]

rob, hhahahha good eye. Ironically I was just talking with the owner yesterday about radios. I said its not in my budget right now for the one I'd like to see him get. I sent him a pic and he said he wants the retro sound radio that will go in that slot. Don't fret cause I have two other 54's I can use it for!

[lower50's]

Nice looking unit, very small. With anything custom it is the research and parts gathering that takes the most time. Keep at it Henry you'll get it.

[99 to Life]

3-13 got gas pedal in. also go the rear xmember and shocks tacked in. Going to mount gas tank next and make sure everything is going to be where I want it bf I final weld.

[99 to Life]

3-18 Got gas tank mounted. After months and months of searching for a trans I finally settle for one. I hope it works, ya know how it goes with "ya its got xxxx miles and it was running". I also settled for a non LS mated 4L60e. Couple reasons. Nothing was coming up for actual newer transmissions. I know the code on this is a 2000 van, but vans still ran the old gen 1 blocks. So long story short. if you want to run a 96 and up trans you have a few more years worth of transmissions to choose from, rather than late 99 and up where the belhousing, input shaft and thus torque converted are extended about .400".
So I'm assuming this trans will overall length change about .75" so I'v read. I'll have to get it in bf I final mount my xmember. All you need to run this trans is this spacer. I got it off ebay for 25$. I think its a ripoff of HughesPerformance HP3795, as they want to charge almost $50 for one. Then I'll have to prolly bore out the flexplate holes so it will mount to the torque converter. That is it.

Started on exhaust. Got two hangers welded so far. I can't wait to fire the engine back up and hear it.

[Desert1957]

Found this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hughes-Perfo...-/271621695357

[lower50's]

Glad you got the trans figured out. It can be frustrating finding what part will work vs what you want. The motor will sound great with the pipes.

[joedoh]

yeah I was talking to my brother from meadville the other day and he said it was impossible to find late model truck motors and trans up there.


congrats on the find!

[99 to Life]

it is hard sometimes yes. guys either crush stuff or when its parted out they sell quick. I usually broaden my search to surrounding areas, since I travel 100 miles north and south every week, it helps with getting parts. So my overall distance i'm willing to go is about a 300 mile radius which helps. I'v been looking for a 00' and up 4l60e for 6 months or more. missed out on a couple. another one the guy just seemed too shady, says he rebuilt it but yet didn't put a new filter on it and had no internal pics. I passed on it.

[99 to Life]

4-4 cpu at home is killing me with some virus. posting is a nightmare. anyway, cut a much needed 3/4 of coil outta springs. huge difference. It should settle another inch or so and be spot on with my initial mochup. if not I'll cut more. engine mounts are 5" off frame, cutting it close with some other clearances but man I do like how it sets in the engine bay.

anyone ever mount one of these trans coolers in front of rad? seems like they are designed to run parallel with frame rail. Don't really have a great spot for it since the battery box on frame is in my way, owner wants to keep that box.

[99 to Life]

4-4 few more pics. got brake MC and prop valve. deciding if I should put fuel regulator on firewall. another shot of exhaust. I'll prolly exit in rear fender area, save some money on material and space. started on rear frame and fuel pump mounting, will post pics next time.

[lower50's]

Lookin Good Henry! Why not mount the regulator below the master, then you can get to it but it is not out in the open.

[yossarian19]

Trans cooler looks kind of marginal to me. You see those heat sink coolers used as the only trans cooling on T-buckets and such because it's a trans designed for a half-ton truck in a car weighing 1500 lbs or so. For a truck that's going to weigh in closer to 3,500 or 4,000 lbs, I think you want to go to tube and fin construction or better yet a cooler built into the lower tank of the radiator.

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

4-4 cpu at home is killing me with some virus. posting is a nightmare. anyway, cut a much needed 3/4 of coil outta springs. huge difference. It should settle another inch or so and be spot on with my initial mochup. if not I'll cut more. engine mounts are 5" off frame, cutting it close with some other clearances but man I do like how it sets in the engine bay.

anyone ever mount one of these trans coolers in front of rad? seems like they are designed to run parallel with frame rail. Don't really have a great spot for it since the battery box on frame is in my way, owner wants to keep that box.

Henry,

I have a similar style on my hot rod , seems to do well even in the summer. Mine is mounted along the frame rail though, under the running board.

[joedoh]

ccleaner my friend!


that trans cooler is a convection type heat sink and doesnt need airflow, even though the fins look like they need air passing over them. as long as you have air around it it will transfer heat. this is different than a fin and tube type cooler, there is no mass to transfer heat and it will need airflow.

as far as effectiveness, no idea.

[99 to Life]

thanks guys. my 3 things I don't aim for in a hotrod. AC, Radio and automatics. So.... I have to do all 3 in this build. I'll try it out, perhaps put a trans temp gauge in and go from there. I'v learned a bit about autos already, soon to learn more. already know to buy any 2wd one I can find now.

Bob, I don't want the fuel regulator visible. I think I can snake the fuel line up the cab and right to the regulator, then its inches from the carb. might just rig it up here. or.. I could see if I can make a bracket and bolt it to the engine!! less holes in this firewall the better.