The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1960 - 1966 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-11-2017, 08:39 PM   #1
jayoldschool
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 2,176
Let's fix my non-op headlights

Ok, after two years of having my truck in operating condition, it's time to fix the headlights. They don't work.

Diagnostics:
- parking lights work
- no high or low beams
- no blown fuses
- all other wiring works

Today, bought a new dimmer. The old one came apart when I tried to unplug the harness. Took this as a good sign. Had to really work the connector to remove it from the old terminals (that were totally rusted). Grabbed the multimeter, no voltage on any of the terminals. The terminals on the wiring side aren't rusty like on the dimmer. Wait, should I have measured to ground? I didn't do the jumper test yet because the new dimmer didn't work. Does it need to be screwed to the floor to function?

I know I'm missing something simple. Thanks in advance for any advice.

On a more positive note, we fired the engine in my buddy's 63 C20 for the first time since swapping it in. Had to buy a voltage reg and horn relay to wire it up.
jayoldschool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2017, 09:25 PM   #2
lumpy63
Registered User
 
lumpy63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: san diego ça
Posts: 121
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

Sounds like you need to check your headlight switch, power goes through H L switch to dimmer switch. with the H L switch in on position you should have power to one of the terminals at the dimmer.
lumpy63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2017, 10:44 PM   #3
Wrenchbender Ret
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Overland Park, Ks.
Posts: 5,229
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

The center term on the plug should be hot, measuring from the term to ground. The dimmer switch does not have to be grounded to work. The large red wire on the headlight switch should be hot all the time.
Wrenchbender Ret is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2017, 11:12 PM   #4
padresag
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Sidney,b.c.
Posts: 4,425
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

sometimes it is the connector at the rad support that cause a problem
ron
padresag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2017, 08:58 AM   #5
jayoldschool
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 2,176
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

Thanks, guys. It was raining and cold when I was working on it, and dinner was on the BBQ. I was definitely not at my best. I have a test light in my box to make this easier.

To do:
- center to ground to check for 12V (if yes, jumper both sides to test high/low)
- check red wire on switch for 12V (then test other terminals, actuating switch)
- check rad support connector

Tune in tonight for a nice picture of my truck with the headlights on! Hopefully ;-)
jayoldschool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2017, 09:04 AM   #6
raggedjim
Senior Member
 
raggedjim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Murray, Kentucky
Posts: 3,485
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

I'm with Lumpy, I vote switch.

Good luck, Rg
__________________
Roger

'68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675
'69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer
'70 GMC Jimmy 2wd
'73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203
Ideas - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=851743
raggedjim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2017, 09:22 AM   #7
scoot_mcgrute
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Tigard, Or
Posts: 503
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

Quote:
Originally Posted by padresag View Post
sometimes it is the connector at the rad support that cause a problem
ron
When my headlights just up and quit on me, it was the rad support connector. I kicked myself for not thinking to check that.
__________________
1966 Army Truck
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=691778
scoot_mcgrute is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2017, 10:34 AM   #8
vince1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Calgary Alberta
Posts: 1,170
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

Of course you have to get the power to the lights but don't overlook the grounds at the headlights. They are woefully inadequate at about 18 ga. and rust also plays a big part in losing them. The likelihood of two grounds being bad though would be minimal.

I did the headlight relay modification. The way it was the old way I was scared to drive it at night.
vince1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2017, 01:08 PM   #9
Palf70Step
State of Confusion!

 
Palf70Step's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 47,225
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

If the park lights work, then you switch has power. Next as mentioned is the power leaving the switch. Grounds for the headlights can also be the issue. Although it sounds crazy, don't forget to see if the bulbs are OK. I beat my head on one car and it turned out both bulbs were bad.
__________________
Bill
1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside
2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD

Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC)

Bill's Gallery
Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift.
Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!
Palf70Step is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2017, 02:31 PM   #10
jayoldschool
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 2,176
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

I still have one T3...
jayoldschool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2017, 06:15 PM   #11
jayoldschool
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 2,176
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

Promised an update:

Lights work! Highs and lows. It's the connector that was plugged into the old rusted dimmer. The contacts are corroded enough that voltage won't pass. I can wiggle the voltmeter probe enough to get 12V on the middle terminal, but using a nice 14ga jumper between that and the other terminals gets me nothing. So... I got out jumper cables, hooked one to pos, and used that same little jumper to connect to the rad support connection. Light! Highs and lows.

I'll get a pigtail tomorrow. If it was nicer outside, I'd be out there right now just using three crimp connectors.

Thanks for helping me talk this one through. One little thing that will go a long way to making my truck more functional.
jayoldschool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2017, 06:07 PM   #12
jayoldschool
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 2,176
Re: Let's fix my non-op headlights

One last update. Cut the old connector off, wired it up with new connections, hooked up the dimmer, and everything works fine. The left mounting screw spun the mount, so I'll deal with that tomorrow. I will try with front and back vise grips, but I bet the grinder will come out to play.

Next up, carb rebuild! I have zero accelerator pump action.
jayoldschool is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com