I've searched rust to death, need experienced opinion

[nail pounder]

How do you deal with pitted rust? I've read everything on the net, I was all set to get some ospho but then read about bad reactions with epoxy primer. I used those polycarbide disks to remove the paint & they work pretty good. I have rust pits under my bed rails (no pics) and some on the top as well. I'm just barely getting started on a long tedious process, this section didn't take too long, figured I'd pull the wheel tubs out and finish, epoxy it then start another section. Eventually it will get done. I'll try a wire wheel tomorrow, but how do you guys deal with this at home? Sending it out to blast is not in the budget at this time. Any tips on stripping the cornes? To be honest there isn't much rust on most of it but I'm hesitant of just stripping the yellow and shooting epoxy over the old primer & original paint. Maybe I'm thinking too hard.

[mr48chev]

Sears sells a fairly decent little sand blast gun with hose for about 35 bucks http://www.sears.com/craftsman-porta...p-00916707000P I have the same gun on my sears sandblast I have decent results on small stuff with mine using a little HF 8 gallon air compresser. You wouldn't want to do a whole truck with it or a whole frame but for small areas it will get the job done. If you have a harbor freight close by they have several little sand blast guns with containers for around 20 bucks. Scroll down https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...f&q=SANDBLAST+ Not fancy and not for big jobs but one will probably help you get the rust out of the pits and let you prep and prime it with no worries.

[nail pounder]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Sears sells a fairly decent little sand blast gun with hose for about 35 bucks http://www.sears.com/craftsman-porta...p-00916707000P I have the same gun on my sears sandblast I have decent results on small stuff with mine using a little HF 8 gallon air compresser. You wouldn't want to do a whole truck with it or a whole frame but for small areas it will get the job done. If you have a harbor freight close by they have several little sand blast guns with containers for around 20 bucks. Scroll down https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...f&q=SANDBLAST+ Not fancy and not for big jobs but one will probably help you get the rust out of the pits and let you prep and prime it with no worries.

Good call, sending it out to blast is out of the budget but buying tools to do it myself is in the budget. What type of media do you personally use? Ive seen walnut shells, glass bead and some charcoal (I think) at the Tractor Supply store near me.

[mongocanfly]

If your trying to remove deep pitted rust spots sand is your best bet..and it needs to be sandblaster sand...not to be confused with motar sand..walnut works good on paint..glass bead works ok but takes a lot longer..I'd save the charcoal for burgers and steaks...never heard of running it thru a blaster

[nail pounder]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

If your trying to remove pitted rust spots sand is your best bet..and it needs to be sandblaster sand...not to be confused with motar sand..walnut works good on paint..glass bead works ok but takes a lot longer..I'd save the charcoal for burgers and steaks...never ran any thru a blaster

Hah your right, much better when used in a BBQ. Coal slag is what it was, I just checked it out on the Tractor Supply website. Is there a specific grit sand you suggest?

[mongocanfly]

First figure out what type blaster your gonna get..that will play heavy on what size it can use..think of it like sandpaper..the lower the number the coarser it is...here's a grit chart that may explain it a little better...http://www.mediablast.com/sandblasti...nversion-chart

[nail pounder]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

First figure out what type blaster your gonna get..that will play heavy on what size it can use..think of it like sandpaper..the lower the number the coarser it is...here's a grit chart that may explain it a little better...http://www.mediablast.com/sandblasti...nversion-chart

Ok cool, I'll check it out, thanks for the info!

[DransportGarage]

I use DuPont Starblast sand. Cuts great!

In the past I have also used generic ilmenite sand, if you can find it.

I've also tried Black Diamond blasting media that Tractor Supply sells, and in my opinion it is junk. I took it back.

[Foot Stomper]

No sand blasting required to clean rust pits.
You've done a perfect job that's ready for epoxy primer that will not allow further rusting. That's the job epoxy is so so very good at!

If you read the tech data sheet on the epoxy you are going to use, they will refer to SSPC2 or SSPC3 clean prior to applying it.
Here is a link to what those those mean. http://www.blastal.com/images/SSPC_Chart.pdf

[1project2many]

Rust forms when moisture, oxygen, and steel get together. If your rusty surface is dry it is possible to use a paint to seal it. Epoxy primer is a good choice because it seals out both moisture and oxygen. But the primer should not be left exposed.

I tend to use acid in spots like you're showing. Muriatic acid is a high strength form of hydrochloric acid and it will react with the bare steel and the rust. It's strong stuff and you need to understand and follow safety precautions. Phosphoric acid is slightly milder and will conver rust into a different form of iron oxide which does not rust. It's a main ingredient in "rust converter" type products but you may be able to find it in pure form. Again, use safety precautions.

After using acids you can rinse heavily with cold water or you can try to use a baking soda solution to neutralize. Most of the time I just rinse. Baking soda often leaves a green or rust colored residue that should be removed before painting.

The final step is to dry the area. Any steel exposed to acid will try to rust ASAP when the acid is gone. Using an air gun to blow rinse water off will cause a tiny amount of surface rust to form but I've never had an issue with it.

[FAKKY]

https://youtu.be/d2WvsB3_Jg4

[nail pounder]

Thanks for the help, some good info. Everything I've read about the chemical treatment says if the epoxy has acid in it it can react to the acid in the treatment if not properly neutralized. I ran across this video on YouTube that pretty much validates that. After looking at my rust pits in the daylight, they really don't look too bad, maybe just wire wheel or spot blasting first. I'm tempted to use a chemical under the bed rails because of inaccessibility.


https://youtu.be/-yA8q4K-_Bo

[51chevytruck]

Eastwood makes some great products.

[nail pounder]

I bought a cheapo harbor freight spot blasting gun, some walnut shells and glass bead. You guys are right, i need some sand. My local hardware store has 60, 30, 20 & 16 grit blasting sand. Any recommendations for spot blasting pits, stake pockets and the bed corners etc. I was thinking about just getting the 16 grit and going for it. Any opinions?

[Hblee]

I've always used fine sand when blasting. It leaves the surface smoother. I've had some inner fenders and a core support blasted with black beauty or more coarse sand and the surface was rough and needed to be primed and sanded to get it smooth again and to look better. I don't know about the numbers, I would guess the higher numbers are finer, just like sandpaper. The lumber yard where I used to get mine had coarse, medium and fine.

Originally Posted by nail pounder

I bought a cheapo harbor freight spot blasting gun, some walnut shells and glass bead. You guys are right, i need some sand. My local hardware store has 60, 30, 20 & 16 grit blasting sand. Any recommendations for spot blasting pits, stake pockets and the bed corners etc. I was thinking about just getting the 16 grit and going for it. Any opinions?

[DransportGarage]

I use the finer Dupont Starblast as well...

[nail pounder]

I read on the hot rod forum that 60-80 works pretty well on pits so I ended up buying the 60 but haven't had time to try it. Too many chores on the honey-do list. A four day weekend just means more time to catch up on the yard. I'll try to find some time tonight and give it a try. I may need to order some of the Dupont stuff, seems to be less toxic(silica wise)

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by nail pounder

I read on the hot rod forum that 60-80 works pretty well on pits so I ended up buying the 60 but haven't had time to try it. Too many chores on the honey-do list. A four day weekend just means more time to catch up on the yard. I'll try to find some time tonight and give it a try. I may need to order some of the Dupont stuff, seems to be less toxic(silica wise)

Did you know that epoxy primer will take care of any rust pits 100%?

[nail pounder]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

Did you know that epoxy primer will take care of any rust pits 100%?

You have my attention...I know in your last post you said that as well. I did read about the "grades" of cleaning, I'm just concerned it will bite me in the butt later. I have the passenger side of the bed cleaned pretty well. Polycarbide wheels, then wire wheel, then polycarbide wheel again. I'm tempted to take your advise. I think I've read so many times that the metal needs to be clean and white that I'm having a hard time getting over it. What I don't want is rust bubbles a couple years from now. This is a home built (not a show)driver truck, but I want to do the best I can because this one is a keeper. My 66, although I love it, would be sold by now to finance the 58, but my daughter has her heart set on it.

[tmoble]

I use the phospho stuff from Home Depot, comes in a gallon can. It's called prep and etch or vice versa. It doesn't do anything much to clean bare steel. As mentioned, this is the active ingredient is about every rust killer product. Read the label, get a box of the heavy 9 mil rubber gloves. wear goggles, this stuff is no fun to get in your eyes. Don't ask how I know this. Once it converts the iron oxide to iron phosphate it permanently stops growing. surface rust will wipe off with this stuff, it's like magic.

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by nail pounder

Maybe I'm thinking too hard.

Yes.

You asked for a professional advice...
Good luck with your project.

[nail pounder]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

Yes.

You asked for a professional advice...
Good luck with your project.

Thanks Foot Stomper, I appreciate your advise.

Thanks TMobile, I have considered ospho, but again have heard mixed opinions about it's compatibility with epoxy. I know that as long as it's completely neutralized it should be fine.