Brake line help

[nancyboy]

Anyone have brake line routing pics for 64 long bed they could post?

Thanks, Joe

[jayoldschool]

You don't really need pics, although there will be some here (check the FAQ first). Down from the master to the frame. Splitter, Left to the LF, Along the crossmember to the other side, splitter, RF, then Back to the rear along the right side of the frame, up to the flex hose connection for the rear.

If you have no lines now, just do a dual MC conversion. If you use the 67 C10 dual, FRONT port to FRONT brakes (unlike later model MC).

[Sledgebone]

I just did mine with that dual master. Firewall port is for front brake line, forward vehicle port is for rear. Search the topic, there's thread on here about it.

[jayoldschool]

Sledge, your lines are backwards if you used the 67 master.

[Sledgebone]

I based my routing off of this thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=451659

Trucks stops fine. I don't feel like swapping the lines and re bleeding to see if it works better. I plan on a disc front... eventually

[jayoldschool]

Yes, that thread is wrong. It is correct for later masters, however. We have later threads that have updated with correct info.

[Captainfab]

With the '67-'70 C10 master cylinders, the front port is front brakes and rear port is the rear brakes.

[rvrfoot]

Some times the front is smaller then the rear.

[64shortbox]

nancyboy,
Are you talking as left the factory brake line routing or are you doing a Disc Brake conversion and wanted to see how the brake lines were routed?

If you are talking about Disc Brake line routing - I went the cheap & easy route. I purchased Captainfab's Power Brake Bracket - an excellent piece by the way - I then went to the local self serve wrecking yard and picked up EVERYTHING off a 73 Chevy C-10 & I mean Everything. The vacuum booster, master cylinder ALL the brake lines and the proportioning valve. I loosely mounted ALL the brake lines then tightened everything up. I did have to make my own bracket to mount the proportioning valve but other than that EVERYTHING was a direct fit with only Very Minor tweaking. And the good part it all looks factory - because it is factory but factory for a 73 C-10.

[nancyboy]

I am doing 4 wheel disc with baer components and in line tubing lines. I will be bying a bracket from captain. I believe I can figure it out now based upon the info you all have provided. The biggest thing is knowing where all of the junction blocks go. The old gal will be three years in the making come December and I'm getting closer all of the time. Should have the body back on the frame in a week or two. This is my first and possibly last project and you guys are the best. A wealth of knowledge and always willing to help

Thanks, joe

[Bret B]

I really hope the fit of the In-line tube has improved over the last 20 years or so. I have sitting in a box a full set of stainless lines from them that don't fit worth beans. Length is too long on one piece, the long run is in three pieces with bends where there should be no bends and both ends are wrong size fittings, one other piece doesn't even look like it goes to this kit as well. I have been kicking the idea around of making my own lines, yet haven't finalized anything.

Just order the CaptFab bracket and plate myself. Looking forward to getting back to the truck project.

[rvrfoot]

I got all of mine from cpp. The front to the rear is a one piece.