V8 swap in AD

[Matt_50]

Ok, so when you look it up there seems to be a lot of ppl who argue over what is better flex or clutch lol honestly I'm cool with whatever works, but what I'm curious about is what cfm rating I'm looking for.


I plan on an A/C, prefer a radiator with trans cooler in it but let's say we have three coolers in front of the fan just in case. I'm no hotrod either and neither is the engine. I'm thinking I need as big a fan as I can fit and also make a shroud around. Making a shroud has popped up in many of the searches here for better cooling.

[Matt_50]

So I think I have plenty of room with bottom pulley. Main problem seems to be water pump area. I took the clutch fan off and measured how much room I have until I meet the support.

The guy I got the truck from had a second support. It had been cut up a bit. Looks like one side was cut for a radiator to slide inside it instead of being mounted on outside of support. I can get this free and keeps me from cutting up this one, just in case you know.


Am I missing something on top of support? What do the two holes go too?

[Matt_50]

Ok I want to try and get new brake lines and a radiator before spring break.

Lines I've got covered, bent and stretched out donor lines to get shape and length for new ones.

Radiator. I've got very little room between support and engine. I'm gonna trim my support up to get one to slide in for more clearance.

I did not have a radiator when I got this truck. What measurements am I looking at? 22 wide at the most right? Think I'd prefer no more than 21 for bolt clearance.

What about height? What range do I have?


What are your opinions on this?

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...77535000&ver=0

66 mustang ones are popular right? Would one fit real good inside the support? I know they are taller... but they are cheaper and I like that.

[Matt_50]

Without a radiator for reference, I think I may be looking at this the wrong way.

From pics, it looks like the stock rads do slide inside support but are tilted? And stick out going towards engine... by how much from support? Pics of mustang ones look similar.

Question, could I cut brackets off and it would slide in more flush to support? Do you guys think I need to for my clearance?

Next, I think I'm reading to many s10 swap builds. Looks like the supports are shortened? Is this the reason for the popular 19x22? I've been assuming I needed to copy something like this pic of skymangs.... but if my support is taller, I can disregard it right? It is taller right?

[b-mac]

S10 steering box is on the inside of the frame rails, so you need a shorter radiator. My 22" Speedway special is thicker than the OEM radiator. I cut off the back part of the "C" channel that the old radiator sat in, and made a bottom pan for the thickness of the new radiator.

But I will go electric fan. And I recessed my motor into the firewall 2 inches.

I can't find a great pic, but this might help some. I think Skymangs post lays it out better.

[Matt_50]

That makes more sense now!

Ok so I'm using the stock frame. What height of radiator can I use?

[b-mac]

I would guess you would need to measure that stock bracket. They sell re-pop OEM radiators. Don't know why you couldn't go that way, if you don't need to hack the bracket, like us swap guys.

[b-mac]

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=107

[Matt_50]

This is why I had one for reference. The pictures of stock radiators look like they angle or lean towards engine. If the brackets are flush and I can get one to fit flush to the support I'll be good. But the different pics are inconsistent. I mostly pull up the sales page pics. I'd like to see a pic of someones radiator they bought so i know what im ordering.

I've emailed a couple places just to find out their pics are just for reference. So... I'm a little iffy on what to order.

[Matt_50]

See what I mean? Are all the side mounting brackets slanted like this?

[joedoh]

all the stock chevy radiators I have seen have have that lean back bracket.

you are missing a piece at the top of your radiator core support, just a cap that joins the two sides. the core support supported more than the core on these trucks, it also supported all the front sheetmetal with "wings" that go out in the fenders. so it is a complete hoop.

the GMC radiator was actually mounted fully inside of the core support hoop, so it had a different top cap. the gmc engine was longer than the chevy and would have hit the chevy rad with the fan.

if you havent done an s10 swap you wont need a 19x22 radiator, you can use a much taller one. generally, later sbc are set up to have the upper hose on the drivers side and the lower hose on the passenger side, but one like you show would work too. I like side tank rads better than top tank rads, easier to burp and run a recovery system in my opinion.

it is hard to find a rad that is narrow like the core support, modern side tank rads are usually just slightly too wide, like the C4 corvette rad, or the late model v8 explorer radiator, they are 23-24" wide and there just isnt room in the core support. so top tank tall rads are about all you can do.

moving the engine back a little might give you a little more room up front but probably not enough.

[Matt_50]

I recently got my hands on another support with the top piece. My hand can barely squeeze between distributor and firewall.

How much does the lean bracket make the radiator lean in at the top? Do they need to lean? Im thinking I could buy one and if need be maybe get a rad shop to cut and move brackets...

How much difference is there in the stock rad and a 66 mustang? They seem close... I'm trying to get a good price.

[joedoh]

I got the mustang rad (it was a 64 v8 rad, different than the 66) for my 41 at oreillys, ~140 bucks. had a trans cooler in it too. the 64 was TINY. I had to build air directors. anyway I think oreillys site had the overall dims on it for the 66.

the 66 was taller and wider if I recall. if you buy a stock replacement mustang be careful with the fins, if I did another I would put a piece of cardboard front and back to protect them while you were moving them around. even brushing a wrench against them makes a mark.

[Matt_50]

Some pictures look like mustang rads also have angled brackets? Anyone confirm or deny this. If so, maybe I could just go with stock.

Ok, a one belt system would buy me some room, but I'm low on funds. What about a pusher fan? Seems I got a lot of room in front for one.... they are not as popular, and I'd like some opinions, but remember, I'm just gonna cruise around town. Most I'll ever driver is 55 rarely.


Would a big pusher be better than a very slim puller? Maybe I just need to buy a radiator and look at my options.

[b-mac]

Might try a big hammer on the firewall...

It's hard to tell, but it some of the electric fans are pretty slim. Are you sure you don't have room?
I don't think it would hurt to try a pusher fan. At least until you have the funds for a different bet drive.

Are you worried about the OEM leaning in too much at the top?

[Matt_50]

Yea, if you see the pics a few posts up, I only have like 3 inches. So whatever amount the radiator sticks out, makes that even smaller.

Online I'm seeing a lot of options for radiators.

Real quick... all radiators are two flow right?

After that there are 3 and 4. Do I need a 3 or 4? Im seeing a lot of 3s, how much thicker are they? This will affect my clearance.

If the thickest part of a fan is the motor, maybe I could get two small ones and get them positioned between stuff. Are two little pullers better than one big pusher?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Some pictures look like mustang rads also have angled brackets? Anyone confirm or deny this. If so, maybe I could just go with stock.

Ok, a one belt system would buy me some room, but I'm low on funds. What about a pusher fan? Seems I got a lot of room in front for one.... they are not as popular, and I'd like some opinions, but remember, I'm just gonna cruise around town. Most I'll ever driver is 55 rarely.


Would a big pusher be better than a very slim puller? Maybe I just need to buy a radiator and look at my options.

my 64 was straight mounted, no angle. it seems I looked at the 66 rad at the same time and it was straight too.


pullers are always more efficient than pushers.

[Matt_50]

I saw a stock 54 today! And the guy was real nice he let me check in all out and measure stuff.

I'm thinking I'll do this.

Order a stock rad. 3 row?

Buy a short pump. Cheap enough.

But I need 3 pulleys to go with it right? Or 4 for future a/c I don't remember what runs off what. There a belt from crank to water pump. Crank to power steering? What about a/c and alternator?

I wanna make sure I find right pulleys. I'll gain what like an inch or 2 by getting a smaller pump?

[Matt_50]

I thought this would be easy to look up.

Do I keep the pulleys on the alternator and the power steering? But change the brackets to move them to realign?

[Jesse Z]

Short water pump saves about 1-5/8".

Regarding pulleys, a coordinated system of pulleys and brackets is required. Speedway Motors should have everything you need, along with the technical information in their catalog to make a decision. Brackets and pulleys will usually specify whether they fit long or short water pumps.

I see many AD owners mount their radiators ahead of the stock location. Some even cut away part of the radiator support to relocate it farther forward. And some do a neater job of this than others... And yes, removing the leaning brackets from a stock radiator and remounting them straight would be a simple operation for a shop, but again it would necessitate cutting on your upper core support.

PS: If you're looking for ideas, do what I do: go to Ebay. Every Chevy PU for sale will have photos of the engine compartment. You can view multiple solutions to every situation.

[Matt_50]

Thanks for the tip. That is an idea I wanna look into. Moving the radiator forward if I can. I really wish I had an old one for playing with.

[Matt_50]

Following the tip, I've been looking at pics of trucks for sale. They always show an open hood shot. Check this radiator moved forward, just enough. Think then brackets were slid inside or bolted to the front?

[mr48chev]

Can't tell on that but a stock type radiator most likely fit with the subframe anyhow. The steering box takes up the space where the left bottom corner of the radiator wants to be. One reason I don't do subframe or frame swaps. The minor cash saving over buying an after market crossmeber is lost in the trouble you have fitting sheet metal and radiators. Just stop an think what headaches you have had since you decided to use that front suspension and those you face including mounting the front bumper.

[Matt_50]

Well, suspension bolted to stock frame easy enough. I did worry quite a bit on putting engine in right and what crewmember to add. If I did this again it would be a lot smoother.

[crossfire84]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Well, suspension bolted to stock frame easy enough. I did worry quite a bit on putting engine in right and what crewmember to add. If I did this again it would be a lot smoother.

You do know that the c10 front suspension is 4" too wide? I cut 2" out per side to get clearance.