Cracked frame at steering box

[Short 3/4]

I have a crack starting at the manual steering box on my 65 K10. Searching past threads I see this is a common problem with lots of people selling kits to prevent and repair. Unfortunately I can't find anything to fit a pre-67 4x4. What have others with early trucks done?
Thanks for any help, Tom

[Clyde65]

Pictures will help bud!

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Pictures will help bud!

Yea, I know. The reason I drive old 60's iron is I'm not very good with anything that can't be fixed with a hammer. I'll see if I can find somebody to show me how to do that, but in the meantime the cracks are about an inch long, and coming from the lower rear bolt only, if that helps.
Thanks, Tom

[Clyde65]

Best way would be to weld it up and put a bracket on it like one Captn Fab makes.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Best way would be to weld it up and put a bracket on it like one Captn Fab makes.

that bracket is for the newer style of power steering box.
the biggest problem with these 4 x 4's is that the frame flexes generously there. the 1st main crossmember is not until the bellhousing. before that there is just the bumper and the radiator support which is quite light. the motor mounts don't really constitute a crossmember.. t
then people usually put big wide tires on and when turning the wheels at a stand still puts a lot off stress at the box.
the 68 - 72 4 x 4 model years did have a complete c/member go under where the motor mounts sat.
mine was cracked from every bolt hole in the steering box. only I don't know when it happened. I did have a Detroit diesel in it and the shipping weight with the trans was 1750 lbs when I sold it. it did have when I bought it 36 x 15 x 15" inch tires on it. i went done to a 33 x 12 1/2 x 15 tire but think it was still to wide a tire. that did put a lot of stress when turning a a standstill as when you are parking etc.. in the following pic you will see the front and rear engine mounting. the front mount had those wings which went back up inside the frame aways and the steering box mounted thru it. those plates are 3/8" thick. the steering box was mounted mickey mouse then. it now has a sbc and the 68 under eng cross member and will have narrower tires when it get back on the road

ron

[Captainfab]

If you do not want to upgrade to power steering, you will have to remove the steering box. Then vee out the crack(s) on both the inside and out side and then weld them up. Next grind down the welds on the outside only where they would interfere with the steering box. On the inside grind all welds flush with the frame. Next you will need to make an inner reinforcement plate from 3/16" or 1/4" mild steel that will include all of the steering box bolt holes. Next bolt the steering box back to the frame while also installing the inner plate. Next stitch weld the inner reinforcement plate around the entire perimeter. If you are running big tires, you may want to consider adding a brace from the inner plate to the radiator crossmember about half way across.

If you do want to upgrade to power steering, I make the adapter plates for that.

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If you do not want to upgrade to power steering, you will have to remove the steering box. Then vee out the crack(s) on both the inside and out side and then weld them up. Next grind down the welds on the outside only where they would interfere with the steering box. On the inside grind all welds flush with the frame. Next you will need to make an inner reinforcement plate from 3/16" or 1/4" mild steel that will include all of the steering box bolt holes. Next bolt the steering box back to the frame while also installing the inner plate. Next stitch weld the inner reinforcement plate around the entire perimeter. If you are running big tires, you may want to consider adding a brace from the inner plate to the radiator cross member about half way across.

If you do want to upgrade to power steering, I make the adapter plates for that.

I have no plans for power steering or large tires, so will do as you suggest with the plate. I talked to a good local welder yesterday and he suggested the same as you, so sounds like the way to go ( he also really wanted to buy my truck, so I know he is the right guy. Told him when he sees my name in the obituary to call my wife).
Thanks to all who took the time to reply, I appreciate all the help, Tom

[rvrfoot]

You can put a plate on both sides. After you weld it up. Bolt them together.

[T2vigil]

When repairing cracks I find the end of the crack and drill a 3/16 hole through it. Then bevel it. That prevents any possibility of the crack growing.

[rvrfoot]

x2

[cwcarpenter98]

Bringing this back up with a related question.

I've got a couple cracks, so I would like to add a reinforcement plate. Should I use just a flat plate on the flat part of the frame, or should I also try to bend the brace to match the C in the frame?

[LostMy65]

That I don't know, but I do know you should drill a small hole at the end of the crack now, so it quits spreading.