Rear Axle bearing and Seals

[2001convertable]

Does anyone know where and what type of rear axle bearing and seals I should go with for a 55t rear? I removed the seals and the bearing already. I also removed some type of washer behind the bearing. Should I use the washers when going back? Should I use the old washers or buy new washers?

[dsraven]

post a pic for more info.

[dsraven]

55 1st and 55 2nd are 2 different diffs. post some pics of what you have with a better explanation and you will get better info.
I try to use a brand name bearing, like Timken, and the same for the seals.

[2001convertable]

Sorry, I have a 1959

[dsraven]

the washer may have been an oil slinger, which helps the seal out by flinging the oil away from the seal.
for bearings I usually try to get Timken or skf.
for seals I try to get skf, national, ac/delco or cr.
hope that helps

[2001convertable]

I'm worried if I don't put the washer back in will I have to much play in the axle?

[mr48chev]

There should be no washer if you have a 1/2 ton. as Dsraven said, that was probably part of the bearing.

This comes down to where the SHOW US SOME QUALITY PHOTOS comes into play and one of us can figure out what you have. We need to make sure of what axle you have so we aren't giving advice for the wrong axle assuming that the truck has stock running gear.

Worse than not knowing what you need is us giving advice for the wrong axle thinking that is what you have.

[sack54]

Napa interchange put number in on bearing and select part interchanges you will find your bearings and seals easy.

[2001convertable]

This is the washer behind the bearing. It was taken out in this order on both sides.

[2001convertable]

Its a or1502

[2001convertable]

Is a Timken R1502EL the same as a OR1502?

[dsraven]

I have seen that before and assumed it was placed in the bore, before the bearing goes in, so the bearing has a flat surface to butt against. a radiussed surface would tend to crack the bearing if it were to be hammered in to hard. the other school of thought is that is there to keep the oil in the axle bearing should you be doing some extended side hill operation and the uphill side of the axle would normally run dry over time. if it were me, I would put it back in with the new bearing.

the original number was 111121, which interchanges to the R1502EL. here is a fitment guide from the napa site.

Buyer's Guide
Make Model Year(s)
Buick Century 1942 - 1942
Buick Century 1954 - 1955
Buick Limited 1942 - 1942
Buick Roadmaster 1942 - 1942
Buick Roadmaster 1946 - 1955
Buick Special 1942 - 1942
Buick Special 1946 - 1955
Buick Super 1942 - 1942
Buick Super 1946 - 1955
Chevrolet Truck 1500 1947 - 1957
Chevrolet Truck 3100 1/2 Ton Truck 1947 - 1959
Chevrolet Truck 3200 1/2 Ton Truck 1955 - 1959
Chevrolet Truck C10 1/2 Ton - Pickup 1960 - 1963
Chevrolet Truck C10 Panel Delivery 1960 - 1963
Chevrolet Truck K10 1/2 Ton 4WD - Pickup 1960 - 1963
Chevrolet Truck P10 1/2 Ton - Step Van 1960 - 1963
Chevrolet Truck Suburban C10 1/2 Ton 1960 - 1963
Chevrolet Truck Suburban K10 1/2 Ton 4WD 1960 - 1963
Chevrolet Truck Suburban R10 1/2 Ton 1963 - 1963
Chevrolet Truck YR 1/2 Ton 1941 - 1941
GMC Truck 100 1939 - 1959
GMC Truck 1000 1960 - 1963
GMC Truck 150 1939 - 1942
GMC Truck 150 1947 - 1959
GMC Truck 1500 1960 - 1963
GMC Truck P1000 1/2 Ton 1960 - 1963
GMC Truck P1500 1/2 Ton - Step Van 1963 - 1963
GMC Truck PB1500 1/2 Ton - Van 1963 - 1963
GMC Truck PB2500 1/2 Ton - Van 1963 - 1963
GMC Truck PM150 1952 - 1959


you should also check the axles where the bearings ride because they are effectively the inner surface of the bearing and sothe rolles run directly on the hardened area of the axle shaft. if there are pit marks or discoloured areas it could be an indicator that you need a new axle shaft. same with the area where the seal rides on the axle. if it is worn then the seal won't get a smooth surface to sealon and will fail prematurely. there is possibly a repair bearing available if you don't want to replace the axle shaft or can't find one etc. it looks like this

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-...38_203879_1651

[2001convertable]

I have to tap those washers flat again they kind of warped a bit from the removal of the bearings. I do have to say the bearing I took out look good.I'am going back with the washers and buying new timken bearings.The surfaces look good on the axles. I have to find an oil seal to replace the national seals # 5801.The only reason I did this is because I'am having the gears changed to 338s. I'am taking the center ham to get rebuilt this week.If anyone knows of seals that replace the national #5801.....Thanks Anthony

[mr48chev]

Well that is the bearing and seal I thought you should have. If that washer or what ever it was was there I'd put it back when I went back with the bearing and seal

Rear axle bearing should be Timken R1502EL Shop around as there are big differences in price. Napa is 111.98 while Amazon prime is 48.78 for example. Some serious shopping might beat that.

Seal should be an 18695 Again Napa's price seems pretty stiff while Amazon has it for about half Put skf 18695 in the search.

[2001convertable]

I ordered the bearing and brought the ham to the transmission shop to get rebuilt. Heres the problem...Will the u joint on the yoke of the dana 45 fit the 55t yoke. I don't care if I have to buy a new u joint but will the 55t match up to the drive shaft that the dana 45 was coupled to? The guy at the shop wants me to pull off the yoke on the dana 45 and bring it to him to install it on the 55t. If I knew if the joint was the same I would leave the yoke on the 55t and the yoke on the dana 45.Need help on this one big time.