1965 4x4 Front Drum to Disc Conversion

[coach3bilz]

Newbie here. I have been looking and looking for information on converting the front drum brakes to disc brakes on my 1965 K10 (1534) truck, and am seeing posts for C10 trucks. Is there a difference? Does anyone have any info or can point me in the right direction for this conversion on a 4x4 truck? Parts list? Etc. Is it even possible? Thanks!

[Nanook]

It is definitely possible, but it does require some machining of the spindles.

There is a member on the forum that has done the conversion...try doing a search.

[61K10]

no need to machine anything. It's all in my build at the end.

[coach3bilz]

Thanks for the quick reply fella's! 61K10, I will look up your post now.

[Captainfab]

You can also just change the entire front differental with one that has the same gear ratio.

[coach3bilz]

Captain, Are you meaning to swap out the whole axle to one with disc brakes already installed?

[61K10]

Yes as the capt said, especially if you want power steering. If you want just disc brakes find one anyway and use the parts on your closed knuckle as you need new/used open knuckle spindles and hubs. If you want to use the stock needle bearings in the spindle you will need to turn down the outer axles bearing surface. I replaced mine with a bronze bush like the org closed knuckle spindle. New brake lines will be needed also.

[Nanook]

Be aware that the open knuckle axles are a few inches wider than the closed knuckle.

[coach3bilz]

Ok. The plan is to upgrade to front disc brakes, add brake power booster and split the break lines (front/rear) with a new master cylinder, and add power steering.

Whats the best approach? I already have PS brackets from Captain...need to get the PB bracket.

Sorry for the questions.....I am not a mechanic. My son turns 16 in a year and a half and this will be his truck for a couple years, then it'll be his younger brothers for a couple more. We are just starting into it. Huge learning curve here!!!

So, THANK YOU!!!!

[Nanook]

That's what the forum is here for...so ask away we all have lots to offer and learn.

[Captainfab]

If you have limited mechanical experience, I would suggest just changing the entire front differential as I mentioned above. If you wanted to take a ~200 mile trip, I have a front and rear differential set with 3.42 gears.

[coach3bilz]

Well, I'll be taking the 292 to S and J Engines in Spokane for a rebuild in the next few months and you are just a stone's throw from there. I sent you an email. I am interested in the set. Thanks!

[Captainfab]

Yeah, I'm probably 35-40 miles from S&J.

I replied to your email.

Originally Posted by coach3bilz

Well, I'll be taking the 292 to S and J Engines in Spokane for a rebuild in the next few months and you are just a stone's throw from there. I sent you an email. I am interested in the set. Thanks!

[aotte1]

The "64 K10......." build was done as the Captain said, used the whole front axle assembly from a 1978 K10 truck, including swaybar, power steering gear box, all the steering linkages. This build thread showed this approach.

Key notes: location of the power steering gear box is important, where you place Captain's adapter plate on frame. This needs to be engineered with respect to steering wheel shaft and steering link connecting the pitman arm and steering arm. Also you will need to modify one of the bumper braces, as power steering gear box requires this.

To address the wider track of this front axle, will put more back spacing on front wheels.

A few photos below. Hope this helps. The third photo shows the steering shaft with joints to addressed offset of power steering gear box. The last two photos shows Captain's adapter plate installed and welded in place. Did this along with other repairs before detailing the chassis. You can also see the 78' front sway bar located. Used the brackets from 78' truck, modified them to fit 65' front crossmember. ( an option is to use the crossmember from 78' truck and this will be all bolt-in for sway bar.)

One suggestion - take your time to understanding fully, changes different approaches require in making your decision. Along with any suspension upgrades to improve drivability if wanted e.g. sway bar.

[aotte1]

Another photo showing steering shaft modification, as the power steering gear box has more offset, then stock box. In the photo, the four post sliding jack is visible below, mention so it does not confuse you.

As others have said, you have great resources here, Captain, Kimble, others.

Have you assessed the suspension springs eye bushings and shafts condition?
Both Kimble and my build threads cover this in detail. How does the truck drive now?

Again welcome to K trucks.

Thanks,
Les

[suburbangeorge]

Back in the late '80's when I first got my '66 K-10 a couple of close calls convinced me that the stock drums were not going to suit my driving habits.

Bought a complete Blazer front axle which was supposed to have 3.73 gears. It didn't.

One of the first things that I bought for the truck was a reprint of the factory service manual. It has a very detailed cut away diagram of the front steering knuckles. Then I went to the library reference room and found a manual for an early '70's truck . It had the same great cut away for the disk brake set up. Made copies of that section of the newer manual.

When I bought the service manual I also bought a reprint of the 1946 - 1972 dealers parts catalog. Do they still print these? Or are they only on CD?

Anyway the more I looked at the two cutaways the more it seemed that the older and newer axles were the same out to the u-joints. Well not the same with closed knuckle vs open knuckle but the parts manual showed that they used virtually the same u-joints. Sizes were identical but the open knuckle had grease seals on the caps where the closed knuckle did not. This let gear oil lubricate the needle bearings in the caps.

So I called Dana. After being moved around I talked with an engineer who knew the Dana 44. He told me the parts were not compatible and my closed knuckle could not be converted.

But I had this useless donor axle and time on my hands so I gave it a try. The only real difference is where the spindle bolts to the steering knuckle. They both have a six bolt circle of the same diameter(you can bolt an open knuckle spindle to a closed knuckle) but the pattern on the closed knuckle is aligned 3 and 9 o-clock where the open knuckle is aligned 6 and 12. Since the dust shield/caliper bracket is held in place by the spindle attaching bolts the caliper would be 30 degrees high or low. Went to a machine shop and the brackets re-drilled 3 and 9 o-clock.

Using a neighbor's '70's Suburban as a guide I bent new front brake lines and installed a later master cylinder and combination valve.

Once I had everything together I wanted to have the brakes power bled. Couldn't find a shop willing to work on a modified brake system. Oh well.

Called the engineer from Dana back. Told him what I had done. He replied that he had never done the conversion himself but knew several who had and that I had done it the same as they did. He apologized for misleading me but that there was a company policy against giving the kind of advice I was looking for since someone could do it wrong , hurt themselves and sue Dana.

Closed knuckle axles have a wider turning circle but I didn't have to deal with the minor differences in mounting the axle and connecting the steering. I like having my u-joints being constantly lubricated and sealed away from mud and water and if the closed knuckles are good enough Toyota, Mitsubishi and Mercedes they're good enough for me.