Auto cross 56 Chevy truck

[jeffs56]

Hey guys I’m finally on track with my 56 Chevy truck. I got some info from you guys. On mustang 2 style or Camaro Clip. Well I brought my camaro frame home the other day and did some measurements and we loaded it back on the trailer and brought my stock frame home lol. My stock frame has the dropped axle and leaf springs. My first thought was to add power steering and discs brakes and run that. But there’s a lot of mixed reviews there. I’ve never driven it so I’m not sure how it will ride. I’ve talked to several people that have them and they love it. Well I want to set this truck up to be able to go anywhere and wherever. My main goal is handling. My kids love to go fast so I would like to have the truck handle in the corners. My thought is the dropped axle and springs will not do that. Is there a kit that i showed go with that will make this happen. I’m on a budget because of the previous builder stealing everything from me so bare with me there. I’ve also been told if I go the mustang 2 route I don’t want the 3 piece crossmember. The crossmember and hats on each side, 3 piece. I was told to go with a 1 piece style. Please help with any info. Thanks again

[mongocanfly]

check into flatout's vette front x member..http://www.flatout-engineering.com/products.html
uses donor vette parts..

[Mac the Yankee]

If you're seriously thinking/talking/planning autocross, then you want to look at something that has C4/C5 components, like the Flatout setup.

Having done the Camaro clip, I wouldn't do it again- would have saved me time, effort, and probably $$ when all is added up to go with aftermarket.

just my $0.02

[jeffs56]

My skill level isn’t that great to do the corvette stuff I don’t think. And the guy that’s going to help me hasn’t messed with corvette either. I heard the corvette is too wide is that not true?

[jeffs56]

My skill level isn’t that great to do the corvette stuff I don’t think. And the guy that’s going to help me hasn’t messed with corvette either. I heard the corvette is too wide is that not true?

[Rickysnickers]

Just my opinion, but I think it would actually be easier to weld in a crossmember for the Flat Out suspension than it would be to cut up the original frame and add in a Camaro front clip. It may be worth your time to look into that.

[mr48chev]

I have to agree with Ricky there. To me Camaro swaps (I have done two myself) are 80's technology. It's what we did back then because we were broke and there weren't a lot of options out there and they handled reasonably well for the time. Still ok for a low buck daily driver that you plan to drive to work every day but you would have to put a lot of effort into it to turn int into a viable autocross contender.

To get that front end to where you can autocross it respectably you are going to have to run the poly bushings, change the sway bar, probably upgrade the brakes and upgrade the springs and shocks. Add in a quick ratio steering box if it doesn't have one. You would have to do those same things if you decided to build the Camaro to autocross with plus probably some stiffeners to take the flex out of it.

[jeffs56]

Sorry for the confusion, but the Camaro Clip frame is out of the picture. It’s either going to be a mustang 2 style or corvette. Downside to the corvette is you have to buy the kit and coilovers plus you still have to find a (used) suspension. Hope you guys can lead me into the right direction

[1project2many]

I do want to mention that a solid axle can be made to work well for many uses where people think otherwise, including roundy-round and straight-ahead racing. But Autocrossing, with both left and right turns, is really a place where a properly set up IFS will outperform a well set up solid axle. This is true at both ends of the vehicle. You can set up your solid axle with high negative camber to try and get the best contact patch in corners but if you have tracks with long straights the tires will cool between corners and wear unevenly. Compared to a poorly installed and set up IFS you should use the beam and do the work to get the adjustments dialed in. But if you have the time, money, and inclination to install and adjust IFS then by all means, go for it.

As far as "old technology" there are plenty of parts available to improve geometry on the old subframe systems. If a subframe falls into your lap it's worth considering imo. Or you could move to a full frame chassis like the G body and put your cab and parts on that frame. There are plenty of race designed pieces for the G body chassis right now. But if you're really building a vehicle that races more often than not I'd think using dedicated race pieces is really the way to go.

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by jeffs56

My skill level isn’t that great to do the corvette stuff I don’t think. And the guy that’s going to help me hasn’t messed with corvette either. I heard the corvette is too wide is that not true?

The camaro clip width is quite a bit wider than the C4 corvette. I will never do a camaro clip again. By the time you get a camaro clip up to modern standards, you will have spent just as much as the C4 conversion. C4 has bigger brakes, aluminum control arms, and rack/pinion steering.

[Mac the Yankee]

Again, if you want to do autocross, I don't think you want to be looking at a MII suspension- remember that even after all the "developments" that have occured over the past few years, it's still based on the Pinto chassis...

The Flatout kit is designed to fit and uses more race-proven parts.

[jeffs56]

I will definitely check out the corvette suspension a little more. So many choices

[svr]

Plus one on the C4, in the end you wont have any more money in it and for auto cross youll be much happier.

[mr48chev]

You might take a look at the industrial chassis crossmember for TF trucks that uses the Dodge Dakota suspension pieces and rack It also lets you run the big Chrysler rotors on the front. He doesn't show tube A arms but can probably make them if that is what you wanted. http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/...959-gm-trucks/
His site is a bit of a challenge to work your way around but he has some nice products.

That might be an option that would get you in with a strong front end for around 1000 depending on your parts bargain hunting skills. I bought a dead in the water 92 Dakota for the suspension pieces for my 48.

The only rub is that you would end up running 5 on 4.5 wheels. That isn't an issue for me as I am running steel wheels and hubcaps but if you are wanting large custom wheels of a special design that might be an issue.

[jeffs56]

That’s interesting. I’ll check that out also. Is there a recommendation for a mustang 2 that will work for a budget. Looks like No limit and Scott’s are top of the line. But out of my league for having to start over. Cuz I need to do the 4 link as well. I’ve been looking at the full tilt street rods mustang 2 and speedway motors. There’s also Sae-speed out of corona California. Looks like a good kit. What you guys think

[Rickysnickers]

W/O being terribly nosey, and I'm not asking either, but it all depends on your budget. You need to figure that out and then based on that, we can give you some realistic recommendations.

[jeffs56]

Well for suspension I would like to stay around $2500-3000 for front and back. I know that’s not a lot but I’ve got $6,000 in parts stolen from me from my last builder so now I’m really on a budget lol

[hotrod1]

What builder has done the most autocross events? Rob with Nolimit engineering. Make sure you look at their stuff.

[jeffs56]

I did way out of my price range. Amazing setup though. He’s definitely proven his stuff. I’m leaning towards speedway motors or cpp kit. What you guys think of those

[whitedog76]

I picked up an “economy” front crossmember from CPP. I’m impressed with the quality. It is the narrow 56.5” wms though. I have an AD truck, so shouldn’t be a huge deal. I have some control arms from Jegs, they seem like quality units. They use the weaker lower ball joint, but that can be easily changed. I also picked up some Pro-touring spindles from a Helix. I have no complaints about them, very beefy.

I’m accumulating parts a bit at a time, rather than dropping all my dough at once. Right now I’m into my IFS for around $600. My future plans are to use some larger brakes and a “new” steering rack from Speedway.

Buying a complete kit may save me some coin in the long run, but this way I can buy things as I go.

[jeffs56]

I’ve heard nothing but bad things with the Helix. Really inexpensive kits but I heard very poor quality

[Rickysnickers]

Have you looked at the Welder's Series stuff?

https://www.welderseries.com/Rear-c12959482
https://www.welderseries.com/Front-c12959481

[whitedog76]

Originally Posted by jeffs56

I’ve heard nothing but bad things with the Helix. Really inexpensive kits but I heard very poor quality

I can’t really speak for the Helix kits. The spindles are quality units. They’re about as heavy duty as it gets. They are I would say about a 95% copy of a Wilwood spindle if it makes any difference.

Yes, they are made overseas, but I’m willing to bet that CPP, Speedway, POL, and others source more than a few parts overseas also.

[jeffs56]

I would get it welded already, but looks decent.

[whitedog76]

Check out Full Tilt Street Rods too. They seem to have quality equipment at decent prices. I was considering buying from them initially. They have a few install videos on you tube. http://www.fulltiltstreetrods.com/frontsusp.htm

Street Rod Engineering has good stuff too. They make their stuff in house. They have a little different take on the lower control arm, which I dig. https://www.streetrodengineering.com/

I’m planning on doing things a little different on my install, plus I have a deep, long oil sump. So, I went the budget route. If I have to trim and cut, I feel better about doing it on something less expensive.