HELP on 1966 C20 Wheels

[Supergas]

I have exhausted all sources to find some steel wheels for my 66 C20 pickup.

What are you guys using for a 16" or 17" in steel wheel that will fit the stock drum brakes with a 8 lug on 6.5" bolt circle.

I have been told that I have to have a ZERO (0) offset wheel with 4' backspacing..

I would appreciate any and all input as I really want to get the aluminum wheels off the truck..Current wheel is an AR Outlaw II 16" wheel 16X8.

Thanks,

Supergas

[jcramsey]

I've got some 16" 8 lug steelies on my 62 C20. Not sure what they came off of though. Might go pull one and see if I can find any markings that will tell me what they are.

[Old65C10]

If you look in the Steel Wheels thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...5&postcount=94

I think the steel wheels he is using are from a 88+ Chevy 3/4-1 ton. Fitting a hub cap that looks like anything from 60-66 may be a challenge though.

This wheel:
http://www.2040-cars.com/Chevrolet/C...rginia-331335/

[Captainfab]

I've never had any issues with putting any GM 16", 8 x 6.5" steel wheel on a '
63-'66 C20.

[Supergas]

Well, I am going to go ahead and get some late 80's steel wheels and give them a try since no one else seems to have a problem but me

We shall see..

Thanks for your help,

Gene

[oem4me]

Are you willing to go 17.5? Factory one-piece wheels are still around. Common then, a little harder to find now, but not impossible.

[Killer Bee]

my 15" snap rings were too rusty for safe use so I picked up these 16.5" with nice firestone tires locally..

I'm sticking with 16.5" due to decent selection of farm skinnies available from STA..

seller said they came off his stock 73 or 74 that was totaled months after replacing tires..

got all 5 for good price + some ammo

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

my 15" snap rings were too rusty for safe use so I picked up these 16.5" with nice firestone tires locally..

I'm sticking with 16.5" due to decent selection of farm skinnies available from STA..

seller said they came off his stock 73 or 74 that was totaled months after replacing tires..

got all 5 for good price + some ammo

I have some 16.5 rims from an 80's RV. I thought 16.5 tires were hard to find.


BTW...
That has been my favorite factory color as far back as I can remember.
Are you keeping it that color?

[Killer Bee]

thank you, one of my favorite colors of those years too.. keeping it as original as possible without it falling apart lol.. was my dads and I learned how to drive in it.. working on interior now, that deluxe seat ordeal was a doozy

16.5 tires are thin on choices depending on application.. several off road models and farm tires out there..

I'm planning to install STA bias ply super traction rears and super transport fronts..

https://www.stausaonline.com/tires/sta-super-traxion/

https://www.stausaonline.com/tires/sta-super-transport/

not for everyone but I like the old truck look and feel, down to the tires.. but I'm not using this old farm truck on the freeway with 4.57 gears lol..

the firestones that came with the wheels seem to be a decent radial with good reviews but I'll pass them along to someone else when I get closer to daily drivable and put fresh farm tires on it..

so I guess it's really up to intended use whether 16.5 wheels will work.. but if a set was cheap enough, or on-hand in your case, there's still a few tires out there..

good luck gents!

[LostMy65]

If you decide to find some better highway friendly gears, captainfab has the trailing arm mounts for the newer 14-bolt. I put a 4:11 14-bolt in my 66 c20.
BTW.. Do you have a thread for your 65?

[Killer Bee]

thanks for the tip, Captainfab makes some clever stuff! I'm planning to keep the factory rear, manure and road salt has taken its toll and afraid to take some things apart lol

14 bolt would be ideal but I did score a 66 d60 limited slip 4.10 complete drum to drum.. picked it up for my k20 sub to replace open ho52 but ChevyLand hooked me up with a no-spin for it instead so d60 is available.. the old c20 will get stuck in wet grass my dad used to say

not a big thread starter but probably should make one for it, and quit clogging up all the other threads.. I've got some interesting tales of persistence

cheers!

[factorystock]

Originally Posted by oem4me

Factory one-piece wheels are still around.

Thanks for posting a shot of a pristine period wheel and cap combo, IMO, the ultimate look.

[factorystock]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

my 15" snap rings were too rusty for safe use

I hope you remove the clips from each wheel before you scrap em. Clips can be remounted on 70's 16.5" and up to mid 80's 16" bump type wheels to accept period hubcaps.

[Killer Bee]

thanks for the tip, I'll keep that in mind if end up breaking them down for scrap..

for now, they're still inflated with 30 year old tubes, rears are holding a loose d60 off the ground..

I may break them down at some point and inspect them closer for possible reuse..

just can't bring myself to do anything with them right now but hang on to them..

[Captainfab]

I make trailing arm mounts for the Dana 60 axle tubes as well.

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

thanks for the tip, Captainfab makes some clever stuff! I'm planning to keep the factory rear, manure and road salt has taken its toll and afraid to take some things apart lol

14 bolt would be ideal but I did score a 66 d60 limited slip 4.10 complete drum to drum.. picked it up for my k20 sub to replace open ho52 but ChevyLand hooked me up with a no-spin for it instead so d60 is available.. the old c20 will get stuck in wet grass my dad used to say

not a big thread starter but probably should make one for it, and quit clogging up all the other threads.. I've got some interesting tales of persistence

cheers!

[stsalvage]

I use the 1989--1995 16 ford rims the hub caps pop on in the middle.If your going to run a tire size and you have a 4.10 or bigger gear.Best off to run the 235/85/16 it will change your rear gear and let you run your truck up to 70 mph with out the engine high tacking.Plus it gets you truck 14-12 miles to the gallon.Don't run aggressive tread If you mostly drive it on the high way. Michelin tires the Rib tires are the best money you will ever spend for a set of tires they will last you for 200K ya 200,000 miles as long as your front end is rebuilt and new parts and alignment

[stsalvage]

I have a 1965 3/4 ton 350 2 speed power glide 4.10 rear end

[Supergas]

I finally found a great solution for my tire/wheel dilemma..

I purchased 4 new 17" rims, 8 X 6.5" BP, 4" BS and 4 Firestone Destination AT 245/75R17 tires.

The diameter is the same as original tire, 31.8" and the tread width is 1" wider than the original, 9.3" to orig 8.4".

I have not bought the tires yet so am going to take a look at the Michelin Rib discussed by STSalvage..

Thanks everyone for the input,

She will on the road soon..

Supergas

[factorystock]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

thanks for the tip, I'll keep that in mind if end up breaking them down for scrap..

for now, they're still inflated with 30 year old tubes, rears are holding a loose d60 off the ground..

I may break them down at some point and inspect them closer for possible reuse..

just can't bring myself to do anything with them right now but hang on to them..

Those are the infamous original 3 piece 15" rims that GM stopped selling in mid '65 due to numerous wheel failures from overloads. They were later recalled and GM replaced them with 2 piece 15" rims free of charge. In mid '65 GM started using the heavier duty 2 piece 16" wheels on C 20's ( no recall ever on these rims ). All multi piece wheels were considered the heavy duty option on pickups, the standard '60-'66 C 20 wheel was the 1 piece 17.5" on tubeless tires ( as seen in post #6 ).

[CousinTone]

Question on the RIBs...considering the price, I’d expect them to go 200k+, they’re a commercial tire/compound. How does it handle stopping any all around traction? I’d think, based on what I’ve researched, not great. Ive got a C20 survivor and around the streets here in Southern California, you gotta bo on your toes. Few weeks ago on the freeway changed lanes to get on different freeway and as I got into my lane, out from behind a big rig, a little rich lady who just moved here from China in her new Lexus had come to a complete stop trying to figure out which freeway she needed to take. I skidded to a stop and about an inch from her bumper, which I would have eaten for lunch had I started any later. That got me thinking if spending $1,000 for RIBs was the right thing versus a softer tire.

Anything that is in between a RIB and regular truck 70,000 mile tires? Tire salesmen will tell you anything, I trust y’all on this board much more than Brody at Firestone or Big O.

Appreciate the input

[stsalvage]

they do not make the rib tire in 17 only 16.You know they modal the 235/85/16 rib tire after the 22.5 Semi truck tires.its the same tread pattern same tire as they use on the big semi's.Go to tire Rack read all the reviews I even put my revive in in 2007 or 8 they lasted me 225,000 miles under my 1965 3/4 ton bought another set threw discount tires for 859.00 back in 2011 i still have them on my 1972 3/4 ton them are the tires i'm showing you the one tire is off the 1972 3/4 ton they have half the tread left.They fit on the stock ford Rims from 1994--98 F250.Plus the tire is made in France

[stsalvage]

One thing about are trucks from driving mine for 17 years hauling a 16X6 4 foot high side all metal trailer with 1 trailer brake.an 5800 pound Dexter axles.My 1965 had drum brakes for the fisrt 10 years of its life.I had a friend of mind that work for Midas.I was always having brake problems.So one day after work i stoped by Moreno valley midas right when he was closing.So he put my truck on the lift took the spicier 3/4 ton rear end apart took us 3 hours to get all the brakes off and press off the rear drums found out my rear drums here shot.He had 2 sets in stock bought them had then turned 20 thousand and pressed them back on the hub Found out where the brake shoes rode on had deep groves in the metal so it would hang up the rear shoes he welded them up grinded smooth put some grase where the brake shoes move back and forth on.Found out my spring perch Bolt where all my rear bake shoe springs hook to was bent.I bought some new ones the following day.Put new grease in my inner bearing and outer bearing's bought a new rear seal Bought a new Anti adjustment screw Kit with new springs for both sides cost me over 350.00 back in 2006.I was coming down a steep grade 3 weeks later traffic was all locked up.i was doing 60mph and i thought this was it i layed on the brakes and it came to a nice stop with 2 car's to spare Tires did not skid.So if your brakes are dead on and so are your tires they will stop you

[stsalvage]

I did my brakes in the junk hauling business ever 6 months I checked them for cracks on the brake shoes or just to blow out the brake dust.If they looked like they where getting low I would put a fresh new set of brake shoes in AI use to buy my bake shoes from a guys that would reline them.I get a sweet deal for 10.00 a set so i bought 3 extra sets and gave him my old shoes and other old brake liner shoes.All my wheel cylinders where new with new brake Rubber lines.I use to haul 2-4 tons her load.I would have CHP pull me over once every month to check my truck on the 10 freeway back in the 90's