Time to get rid of this money pit

[Coach]

After 4 years of frustration with this truck, I finally reached my breaking point this evening. It would take way too long to write all the crap that I have had to pay to have fixed on this truck, let's just say it is way more than I ever imagined it would be when I bought it. 3 months ago, I had the fuel pump replaced as well as the fuel sending unit. The truck drove great for 1 month. With the extreme summer heat out here, I parked it in the garage for 2 months.

I pulled it out of the garage, put the battery charger on it to fully charge the battery. Once done, I tried to start it the same way as always and it would crank, but not start. After 5 or 6 tries, it sputtered to a start. It would not idle smooth, started to sputter, gave it some throttle and it just died. Finally got it started again, let it idle and tried to go for a quick drive, huge mistake. If it has throttle, it drove OK (not like normal), as soon as I start to come to a stop sign or stop light, the RPMs drop almost to 0 and it starts to die. I had to keep putting it in neutral to get the RPMs to come up, then shift into drive and continue on. I limped it home this way.

Could it be a bad fuel pump again? If not, any ideas on the problem, so I can get it fixed and sell this money pit before the next thing goes wrong, thanks for any advice.

[toolboxchev]

It could be a lot of things, and that is just what they are things. Little dirty old worn out things designed to last 20 to 40 years if taken care of.

Fuel will separate just after 1 month now and leave most of the gummy crap embedded with any residual dirt and grime in the fuel system.

Try running the old snake oil fix syndrome. Chevron Techron Fuel system cleaners. Do this multiple times once running.

First focus on Fuel Pressure test, with a 20 buck tool at your local auto parts store, then on to the Ignition. What carburetor do you have? Any visible leaks at the Carb or Manifold?

Show pics as you work, this will help us give you the correct guidance. There is uncommonly large amount of resources on here.

[Ironangel]

Sell it! With that kind of frustration after some simple fuel issues you've displayed a lack of want to learn and way to much expectation out of a 50 year old engineering marvel. Get rid of it and buy a late model truck with a computer to do your thinking for you...To own and maintain one of these trucks you have to be part mechanic and love what your working on. If you dont, then get rid of it...Aint easy being an old Chevy owner..."Just sayin"

[Grumpy old man]

^ " It would take way too long to write all the crap that I have had to pay to have fixed on this truck, let's just say it is way more than I ever imagined it would be when I bought it. 3 months ago,"

It very well may be time for you to sell it ? Old trucks are just like boats if you don't use them on a regular basis they tend to be temperamental at best . if your paying someone else to fix it eventually you'll lose interest ,You have to enjoy turning wrenches .It's all part of this hobby , It's a labor of love and you have to love the labor it takes .I cringe every time I read where someone is dropping their truck off to have it fixed when these systems are about as easy as it gets . There's a big difference between Owners and Builders ....

[shoveldug]

If you are paying for simple repairs such as fuel pump and sending unit replacement you should probably sell the truck and go golfing instead.

[bill3rail]

These trucks do require a bit of tinkering to maintain them. They are extremely simple to work on, but do require work.

Is your mechanic real expensive and maybe that is why you are frustrated? Maybe find a better mechanic, someone who knows how simple these trucks are. Most mechanics today are plug and play not diagnosticians!

Bill

[Red71gmc]

I see a lot of nice replies. I have only owned my particular truck for 2 years so you do have 2 years on me. Maybe you bought the truck for not all the right reasons. As said, these are 50 year old pieces od machinery designed for much shorter life span, as all are.
I have had my air conditioner worked on by someone else but I've done the rest of mechanical and in a weird way looking forward to the rest. One is suppose to enjoy the simpler mechanics of these old things compared to the computer/NASA almost technology used on modern vehicles and more.
I have farmed for 32 years and what your feeling with your truck is the way I feel about my machinery line. Only it is computer/NASA modern technology and I can't work on much of it anymore. The wire looms on modern machinery is the size of my leg and just like modern vehicles you hook up a computer to tell you the possible problems. Problem with the machinery is only a very few are trained in them compared.
A average Joe can take one of these trucks down to the frame and rebuild the whole thing (with the help of this forum) in his wife's garage (he.he.he). Can it be frustrating, yes but also very rewarding.
My advise is sit back awhile and think about your decision. Try to fix your current problem with the help of these great people with knowledge that share selfishly for the love of it all. If after fixing your problem your just not at the point in life to do it and get it, then sell. I think you will surprise yourself. If not, maybe something else is your thing and that is fine too.

[jessemthompson]

I agree with what is said above. If you’re paying someone to work on this for you, you’re gonna go broke in a hurry. However, if you’re willing to read and learn, you can do most of this work in your own. It’s definitely not rocket science. I’ve seen some noobies get through some difficult issues with help from guys here on the forum. The question is, how bad do you want this truck?

[68 P.O.S.]

It's unlikely your fuel pump went bad since it was replaced and was running well, but there's always that possibility. It could be the carb got gunked up by sitting. Is the engine
stock? Do you know what your timing is set at? How mechanically inclined are you? These trucks really aren't difficult to work on, it's the diagnosing that can be a pain in your rear. Knowing signs and symptoms when something isn't right comes with a little experience and reading through this forum will really help.

[71sierragrande]

When my fuel pump went bad, I popped it out and had the new one in there in no time and she fired up quick. I felt lucky/smart for nailing the diagnosis on the first try. It was easy as hell, and just a few bucks. That's the great thing about these trucks: simplicity. Filters and gas lines would be next

[truckster]

I'm not going to tell you to sell it, because that's your business. However, fixing cars is a skill, and skills can be learned. Your truck is a great place to learn, because its systems are relatively simple and inexpensive to repair.

I would find a friend who can help you get started, or maybe take a course at the local community college. Working on these trucks can be a fun hobby if you're patient and realize that you're working on an old piece of equipment and it's going to need some attention from time to time.

And if you're only driving the truck occasionally, I'd either find a station that sells 100% gasoline (no ethanol) or use Stabil before you store it for a while.

[Red71gmc]

I raise corn and I agree with truckster as he is spot on about the ethanol blend. I have a store that fixes small engines also and 80 percent of the work performed is gas related. My small engine mechanic has proved it to me unfortunately.
If you don't have a station close that sells non ethanol gas only buy the higher octane blend as it has less ethanol than the 87 octane.
It's a good thing their is not a farmer union or I just would have been kicked out but it's true. Small engines and older auto engines don't like the corrosive and jelly reaction that ethanol causes on the metals of carbs and such.

[cypressbog]

Yeah, I bought a couple new Stihl chain saws and a gas trimmer. Sales guy warned me not to use any gas with ethanol. The symptoms you describe sound fuel related. Possibly plugged sock in gas tank, plain and simple bad gas, plugged fuel filter somewhere in-line, carburetor all gummed up.

[garyd1961]

Sounds like the gas has gone bad, maybe even has water in it from sitting.

[jeffahart]

My truck is trying to get rid of me!

My transfer started leaking real bad about three weeks ago. Wanted to replace the pack before rebuilding the trans and transfer. but the seal in the adapter gave out and started leaking oil into the transfer. Finally too much oil dripping to ignore.

Oil Leaks and The Domino Effect.

I dropped the transmission and transfer... yes, by myself with a floor jack!

Well, if the transmission is out might as well do the clutch, and flywheel.

Well, if I put in a new clutch I might as well do the rear seal and oil pan gasket. No sense in getting oil on the new clutch setup.

I took the trans and transfer to get rebuilt. I did the pan gasket, rear seal and clutch the weekend the gears boxes were in the shop.

re-installed the trans and transfer... yes by myself and with a floor jack.

You want to own one of these old rust buckets, you gotta own it... don't let it own you.

Ya you gotta be a bit tuff and willing to roll the creeper out in the blazing summer heat or cold winter bite.

$1,400 for: trans/transfer rebuild. clutch/plate, flywheel, one piece pan gasket, rear seal, 2 gallon oil,starter bracket, 6 rolls scott shop towels, two bars lava soap(wife can use it in your mouth if you get too loud), beer(lots of beer), Doritos chips, Chips Ahoy cookies.

Want to know how much to pay someone? I would sell too, and I ain't broke!

If it breaks... whop its A$$... at point of discovery.


j

[special-K]

Sounds like ethanol BS. Not the truck's fault. Only new machines run with no issues... hopefully. You should expect an old machine to need work from time to time, unless you restore it mechanically

[jocko]

tough call, punt or stick... Hmm. only you can make the call. I won't tell you to learn to work on it - but I will say that if you want to learn, you can indeed tackle things one at a time and slowly dig your way out - BUT, it sounds like your truck needs a wholistic approach - not the whack-a-mole of fixing whatever is broken today just to keep it going til the next thing breaks. Take a break from the problem you have today and work on something else. Take it a system at a time: complete brakes; complete electrical; complete fuel system, etc. Take your time and learn as you go. You'll eliminate a lot of your problems in the process. This will not work if it is also your daily driver. It is extremely frustrating if you just want to drive it but have to pay someone else to fix it. The more you fix, the easier it will be the next time. The thing is, these trucks are in their mid-40s now, and even one that you might buy later may have its own unique set of problems. I'm going to say it - if you like the truck you have and you want to learn to work on it - then keep it. If the answer to either of those is no, time to punt. Good luck, not an easy thing to do. Never give up I say! There is no slack!!

[Steeveedee]

Gas is definitely an issue, these days. I dragged my '68 Skylark to a body shop to paint it (myself- I rented the booth). It had been sitting for quite awhile and ran badly. I got it painted and took it home. Carb (600 CFM) was full of guck- not its fault- and it ran great after I rebuilt it. Sounded like one lumpy dragster engine when I took it off and then back on the trailer.

OP- are you in the Brentwood area in LA? I'm not too far from you, here in Simi valley. Maybe I could take a look at it.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

OP- are you in the Brentwood area in LA? I'm not too far from you, here in Simi valley. Maybe I could take a look at it.

This board is full of great people. It kind of restores your faith in humanity (not that I ever lost mine, but you know...)

[WorkinLonghorn]

There's a Brentwood city in the S.F. East bay area.

Sounds like a big vacuum leak. "If it has throttle, it drove OK." " it sputtered to a start. It would not idle smooth, started to sputter, gave it some throttle and it just died."

You need to get a simple vacuum gauge and see what the reading is and what the needle is doing. If that's not it then there are other tests to do. You can do this, and you will feel great after you do. -BA

[stevenfromtexas]

"A average Joe can take one of these trucks down to the frame and rebuild the whole thing (with the help of this forum) in his wife's garage (he.he.he). Can it be frustrating, yes but also very rewarding".

have we met???? sounds like you're talking about me....hahahaha

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

My truck is trying to get rid of me!

My transfer started leaking real bad about three weeks ago. Wanted to replace the pack before rebuilding the trans and transfer. but the seal in the adapter gave out and started leaking oil into the transfer. Finally too much oil dripping to ignore.

Oil Leaks and The Domino Effect.

I dropped the transmission and transfer... yes, by myself with a floor jack!

Well, if the transmission is out might as well do the clutch, and flywheel.

Well, if I put in a new clutch I might as well do the rear seal and oil pan gasket. No sense in getting oil on the new clutch setup.

I took the trans and transfer to get rebuilt. I did the pan gasket, rear seal and clutch the weekend the gears boxes were in the shop.

re-installed the trans and transfer... yes by myself and with a floor jack.

You want to own one of these old rust buckets, you gotta own it... don't let it own you.

Ya you gotta be a bit tuff and willing to roll the creeper out in the blazing summer heat or cold winter bite.

$1,400 for: trans/transfer rebuild. clutch/plate, flywheel, one piece pan gasket, rear seal, 2 gallon oil,starter bracket, 6 rolls scott shop towels, two bars lava soap(wife can use it in your mouth if you get too loud), beer(lots of beer), Doritos chips, Chips Ahoy cookies.

Want to know how much to pay someone? I would sell too, and I ain't broke!

If it breaks... whop its A$$... at point of discovery.


j

I drive mine daily, I go through these spurts. Thanks for the look into reality, hopefully the OP can see his way through it.

They are a pleasure when running properly. Here is my current run down of parts and repairs waiting for more parts.

4 new load range E tires

Complete front end ordered

New windshield and gasket

New Core Support, Inner Fender Well and Cab mounting kit.

Add up the dough.

Add a set of shocks to this also.

[72c20customcamper]

My vote phase shift of the gas. The alcohol in the gas can hold only so much water before dropping out of suspension. Engines don't run to well on that. I used to have to rebuild carbs and drain gas regularly . But thankfully a couple of gas stations started carrying
Ethanol free high test about 2 years ago. Since then none of cars or equipment have given me any gas related problems.

Ethanol will also eat up any older rubber and gaskets.

[Red71gmc]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

My vote phase shift of the gas. The alcohol in the gas can hold only so much water before dropping out of suspension. Engines don't run to well on that. I used to have to rebuild carbs and drain gas regularly . But thankfully a couple of gas stations started carrying
Ethanol free high test about 2 years ago. Since then none of cars or equipment have given me any gas related problems.

Ethanol will also eat up any older rubber and gaskets.

What we have seen in the small engine shop is the better additives do help throughout a season on the lines and carb metals when engines are in use. However, they are only good when the gas is getting used through. After they sit for a winter, the additives fail.
80 percent of the time when an engine won't run in the spring it is either stuck needle valve or cracked rotted fuel lines or both. The stuck needle valves have a white or sometimes black crusty corrosion that sometimes has pitted badly.
I use to think the non ethanol/oil quart 2 cycle premixes where ridicules for $8. I have learned for the moderate user it's the best money spent for 2 cycles. We usually give a quart with a new 2 cycle chainsaw or grass trimmer and recommend to at least use it for storage. The free bottle is better than a upset customer the following spring. This corrosion is not covered by manufacture warranty and we are the front line bad guys giving the news.
I'm convinced the manufactures could correct this with more expensive materials being used. However, then their grass trimmer is $20 more than the competition and the average consumer will save the $20. It's a vicious cycle seeing both sides.

[HO455]

Sorry to hear you are disheartened with your truck. Yes, they can be challenging at times to own. If it was easy then everyone would have one. I hope your just venting and will reconsider because it sounds like your truck has become a better vehicle since you have owned it and you should be proud of that.
I have always been astounded by people who complain about being nickeled and dimed by a vehicle that they claim to like. Then the solution to their dilemma is to go buy a new vehicle. Thus spending hundreds of dollars every month for the privilege of paying even more to insure the vehicle just because the nickles and dimes annoyed them. I would rather drive an older vehicle than a new one. I'm just more comfortable in something worn out. And I do like the attention it gets and nothing new is going to do that.