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09-30-2018, 06:22 PM | #1 |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
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New Steel Vs Old Steel
Whats the latest on repro steel vs OEM steel. I don't think Ive seen near the griping about the quality and how repro steel fits these days. Saw a door thread and they looked pretty nice. Saw a couple of build threads where the fenders needed some tweaking, but no idea how old the repro parts were in those threads.
Are the manufacturers getting it together finally?
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10-01-2018, 12:14 AM | #2 |
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Location: Larkspur, Colorado
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
I have a pair of recent repop front fenders for my '67. They are pretty bad. The fitament to the original inner fenders is terrible and the body line for the grill surround isn't even close to the shape it should be. For a beater primer driver these would be OK, but for anything restoration or show quality a complete no go.
Steve weim55 Colorado |
10-01-2018, 12:36 AM | #3 |
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
I'm curious about this also. Following...
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-Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4 |
10-01-2018, 01:32 AM | #4 |
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
Ordered two SWB bedsides; one fit perfectly and the other was 1/2” off. So much for six sigma.
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10-01-2018, 06:39 AM | #5 |
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
I think all you have to do is bring the topic up and it will be the same old conversation. It's hit or miss, some parts get re-tooled, some have a new maker popping in, and you just have to look for updated info before purchasing. One thing I see over and over again is people judging parts by the vendor when it's the manufacturer that matters. A vendor can switch suppliers at any time on items offered by more than one. You just have to ask the vendor who's part they are offering you. If you get "I don't know", it's time to find someone else. There are parts you can't get around it on, only one mfgr.
I'm surprised to hear about a bum bedside. From my experience, you put a complete new bed together and you have a great bed that the parts fit together on. Some bolt holes may new wallowed out, but nothing to ruin your day.
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
10-01-2018, 08:26 AM | #6 |
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
I guess if you use ALL repro body parts with a bare cab, then they might all line up, lol
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10-01-2018, 12:49 PM | #7 |
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
This is a very good point! So who's some of the better manufacturers?
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-Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4 |
10-01-2018, 08:18 PM | #8 |
BlahBlahBlah
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Location: Wa.
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
Interesting, I thought this would be a helpful thread. Lots of views.
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10-01-2018, 09:05 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Russell, Iowa
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
I am GM only. Parts reproduced are mostly overseas and take away from the experience and value of what we have in our 67 to 72 trucks. Thanks Russ
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10-02-2018, 08:31 AM | #10 | |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
Quote:
Personally I have a whole lot of NOS steel still in the boxes. If the after market parts have finally come up to snuff I would rather sell my NOS stuff to people like you and use repro parts. Im not a purist. At the price NOS steel is getting these days folks would be way ahead if they did it this way. |
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10-02-2018, 09:41 AM | #11 | |
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
Quote:
Another told me that sheet metal comes into the terminal at the dock all in the same container and gets packaged into whoever is buying it. That is, hit or miss. One box goes to customer X, the next part goes into box Y. Again, I don't know. What I do know is that to make something look really good, it will have to be worked. No, the aftermarket stuff isn't perfect. No, the original stuff wasn't perfect either. I took pictures of nearly 100 trucks looking at the hood/fender gaps as I wasn't happy with the aftermarket parts used on a truck about 10 years ago. Out of the 100+ trucks I inspected, maybe 10% had good fit and gaps. It's more about the care and effort put into finish than if the part was original or reproduction. (And I asked each owner if the parts were original or aftermarket. I included a bunch of "all-original" trucks as well, and documented each as best I could determine.) I used nearly everything aftermarket on my truck. The cab is original, floor/corners/rockers/kickpanels/dash repair plate/doors/complete bed assembly isn't. The hood and cowl panel are GM as well. A lot of effort, time, and money went into alignment and fit. My truck looks pretty darn good. I am of the opinion that either can/will work. Just don't expect to simply tighten up bolts and spray a little paint and have a perfect match. This likely won't happen either way you go. On the plus side, most original stuff has already been worked. Most reproductions are at least rust-free. And, the reproduction parts likely cost less overall as OEM parts are extremely expensive, and any rust repair gets expensive quickly. Plus, repair is done with reproduction skins and patches, as there haven't been many OEM parts for decades. |
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10-02-2018, 12:39 PM | #12 |
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Location: Falls City, Nebraska "100 Miles From Nowhere"
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
"Tri-Plus" is as good as it gets in my opinion. Fitting fenders usually requires loosening core and cab support bolts. Tri-Plus are metric thickness of 1.5mm which is actually thicker than the OEM sheet metal.
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10-02-2018, 03:01 PM | #13 |
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
Is that AMD (Auto Metal Direct)?
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-Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4 |
10-02-2018, 09:53 PM | #14 |
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Re: New Steel Vs Old Steel
The truth is with most parts, there is only one manufacturer and that is the one who gets there first. I never have known of any getting together ad sharing the cost of tooling up. It's the opposite, very competitive and when one is working toward developing a part it's hush hush and rush rush before another gets there. Once one producer has a part made the expense of tooling is too high to share the market. The only getting together is the producer who got there first will package the part with another's name for them because they have to sell the others' product. I have stood in the warehouse of one large well know produced and seen their competition's name on the boxes slated to ship to them. I have also been given a prototype part to test the fit before putting into full swing production. I was asked to keep a tight lip on the matter until they were in production. I sent pictures of it installed for them to judge and in turn was allowed to keep the piece.
There are many good reproduction parts available the fit as well as and of a quality equal to OEM. I personally go with OEM used, first, but would not hesitate to assemble a bed from reproduction parts, and the same with a tailgate. I sold my N.O.S. tailgates when a quality pieces came out. I would not hesitate to use Tri-Plus/Key Part rockers and cab patch panels. Like I said, hit & miss. There are some I would bot use. Things keep hanging all the time. The first tailgates sucked, then got good. Figure everyone gets stuck with getting rid of the crap pieces first before someone moves ahead with another try. Doors were really bad at the top frame, but now the next version is out. No experience with those, so no comments. But I am sure the top frames will not be the bad fit the first ones were.
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ Last edited by special-K; 10-02-2018 at 10:02 PM. |
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