parking break CABLES routing

[MD2020]

I have the DBK9 ford 8.8 & 9" rear end disk brake conversion kit.
I don't have anything to look at for the parking brake cables. (how to rout them)
Need help on the pathway and where to join them?
Thanks

These are the part's I think I need
Lokar EFB-9001 Billet Aluminum Under-The-Dash Foot Operated Emergency Brake with Rubber

Lokar EC-8001HT Connector Cable for Foot Operated Emergency Brakes with Stainless Housing

[mikebte]

Originally Posted by MD2020

I have the DBK9 ford 8.8 & 9" rear end disk brake conversion kit.
I don't have anything to look at for the parking brake cables. (how to rout them)
Need help on the pathway and where to join them?
Thanks

These are the part's I think I need
Lokar EFB-9001 Billet Aluminum Under-The-Dash Foot Operated Emergency Brake with Rubber

Lokar EC-8001HT Connector Cable for Foot Operated Emergency Brakes with Stainless Housing

I assume this is going on the 56 Chevy. Looks like the Lokar EFB-9001 has the cable running out the bottom. As it should. If you look at OrrieG’s build you will see how he ran it threw the floor as I did as well. (Hope OrriieG don’t mind me using his photos, I don’t have one of mine)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...233305&page=14

As for hooking the rear axle to the cable, that can very by how your set up is, but for the most part try and avoid and items that will interfere with the cable. Do you have some chassis photos?

[MD2020]

Thanks dude

[mr48chev]

Well I can see why you are asking, their instructions seem to leave out any mention of hooking the cables up.

From looking at the photo of the parts it looks like both cables are the same length and intended to run up to a bracket on each frame rail with a cable connecting them and the cable from the pedal.

You are probably going to need a kit like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FK47P5S...b-f94ae1ae4c7a

And this equalizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789BCPHP...b-f94ae1ae4c7a

Plus a custom length cable to run between everything. For that you can use a cable out of a donor vehicle I think most GM full size cars or rear wheel drive trucks have a cable that could be cut and have a ferrule swagged on one end to do that or if you are close to a sailboat rigging shop they could make you one up out of stainless if you had the right measurement.

[MD2020]

Thanks for the link
I saw some other things to do also.
I ordered some parts, those hooks will come in handy.

[dsraven]

ok, let me get this right.
ford 8.8 rear axle
ford 9" disc brake kit you want to adapt to the 8.8 axle?
you want to figure out how to connect and route the park brake cables?
a pic of the related area would really help us to figure out what type of suspension you are using, park brake actuator you have etc.

start at the brake, far side, leave enough slack cable so the brakes will operate properly (use a long cable tie as a temporary hook), from there run the cable across the diff pumkin, attach at the high spot of the pumkin with some sort of metal clip that will retain the cable but also allow some movement, laterally, inside the retainer. stock cables will have a metal tube on the cable so as not to chaff here. follow along to the suspension connection point on the driver's side (be it a leaf spring or whatever) and place a hook (cable tie) there to keep the cable attached but free moving so when the suspension moves up and down the cable will not be forced to get longer or shorter due to how it is routed. route the cable along the outside of the frame rail and go back to do the same for the the driver's side cable, routing it to end up next to the pass side cable previously routed. the ends should end up alongside each other and approx the same length.
connect the 2 cables with a link that has provisions for adjustment and also a connection to the forward cable that will connect to the activation unit on the inside of the cab. a park brake foot lever from an S10 chevy is a good donor because it bolts easily to the kick panel and dash and also has the cable exit the floor, like OrieG has.
go back now and cleanup the routing by installing hooks as required to keep the cables from flopping around when going over bumps etc. keep in mind that rocks, dirt, debris and road water will be bombarding the cables so anything you can do to keep water etc out of the cable sheath is a good thing. there is also the worry of exhaust heat that cab damage the cable if routed too closely.

if you have the ford 8.8 rear axle there are ford vehicles that come with factory disc brakes, like the explorer, that will have the stock cables that you can source from wherever on a cold rainy day out of town. those vehicle also will have a pretty good routing method from stock and will have all the required mounting hardware installed from the factory, hooks, clips, specialized retainers, rubber reinforced areas where the cable is prone to chaff etc. a trip to pick n pull might net you all the components you need, including the adjuster, hooks, clips, connector brackets, actuator etc.
just a thought, go with a stock like set up and have fewer headaches later....

[MD2020]

It's a Fatman Chassis, no brackets to show where to run them.
THE KIT fatman put on there FITS a 8.8 & 9"

Sorry for the confusion.
mikebte took care of me with the links.
Thanks all

[dsraven]

ok, fatman frame. what are you using for a diff then? suspension? park brake actuator?
just curious.

[MD2020]

First look at this
https://mbmbrakes.com/content/DBK9.pdf
It's a 9" with a 4 bar with coil overs

[dsraven]

ok.
personally I would put the suspension at full jounce, like as far up into the frame as it will ever go, then mock up the cable routing. probably have a receiver bracket on the frame that the cable will plug into but don't plug it in now because they don't unplug easily. then lower the suspension to as far out of the frame as it will ever go and see how how the cable looks through the entire suspension travel. try to keep it clear of the 4 link parts if possible. the other plan could be to follow the 4 link bar up to it's pivot point and attach the cable receiver near there. thats if your cable is long enough. that way the cable and the 4 link will follow the same arc so no interference problems or cable length problems. you could clip it to the 4 link bar part way up even. that would put the cable on the outside of the frame unless you figure out a better way to attach the cable at the frame end so it ends up inside the frame. you could also get a longer cable made up to do the job if you decided to go that route.

[hogfarm]

This is what I did,using old Harley clutch cables

[MD2020]

I was thinking about going threw the frame on a angle with a pipe.

[dsraven]

whatever you end up doing, just remember to consider how the cables will interact with the suspension as it moves up and down. the last thing you want is the park brake to be applied when your suspension is fully retracted or extended because the cables tightened up due to having a different pivot point compared to the suspension.
there is always the custom built cable route but remember you can't just pick up a cable at the corner parts store then. once a custom, always a custom.
a piece of tubing through the frame would likely work as long as the geometry is figured out first. this will eliminate or reduce the chance of the cables becoming too short or too long.
as always, mock up, run suspension through a full travel cycle, keep an eye on the cables as you cycle the suspension.

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

This is what I did,using old Harley clutch cables

Did you drill through the bolts? that looks really cool.

[hogfarm]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

Did you drill through the bolts? that looks really cool.

Yes I did drill the bolts just put them in my lathe,since the pictures were taken my frame has been boxed in and gussets on all the brackets,cab and frame are now painted,waiting for the bed to get done

[MD2020]

All done
Thanks guy's

[mr48chev]

That keeps it straightforward and simple. Well done.

[dsraven]

nice job. md2020, you may want to reinforce the bracket for the cable is all. they may tend to bend when the brake is applied hard. wouldn't wanna find that out after the frame is painted. did you split your brake line and run a single from there to each wheel?

[MD2020]

I got the little U thing on the big auction

Is this what you mean?

[dsraven]

if you're asking about the reinforcement on the brackets, I was referring to the brackets on the frame where the cables go from full cable to just the inners. quite a bit of stress can be applied with a hard brake application and that will make the outer part of the cable want to bend the bracket. a quick triangle shaped brace would really help.
just a thought. not having seen the system in action I am just commenting on past experience of my own over the years.

[MD2020]

Thanks , I will brace that up