Suspension upgrades vs. Bolt in kits?

[Z11WEAVER]

I've been searching for info to do a nice handling aggressive static drop on a round body blazer. I purchased a 74 suare body 5 lug front set-up. My initial plans were to instal 2.5 CPP Drop spindles and 3" drop springs. Maybe even 3" drop spindles and 4" drop springs. Tech guy said I should also update to their tubular upper and lower control arms and ad a front sway bar. Then I saw the stance on a Porterbuilt level 2 kit, that has the stance that Im looking for. The bad, this kit is very expensive and requires different hinges, oil pan (for LS) and different or modified inner fenders. I'm trying to convince myself, this is the kit to pursue, but is a guy really making any improvements with this kit vs. the much cheaper factory style upgrades? I do like the idea of improved ground clearance with the Porterbuilt crossmember. FYI, Going to run 20x 8's up front. If I just go with the 74 set-up, are there any real advantages of the CPP tubular control arms other that the cool factor?

[Z11WEAVER]

Porterbuilt level 2 stance.

[rjs53]

The blue truck is sweet! If that's a static drop then I can see what your talking about. I did the ECE 4/6 drop, but want something that's going to handle better. So do you spend the money on porterbuilt of do something else? I'm sure someone else will chime in with experience on suspension.

[HO455]

I would suggest posting this on the suspension section. Lots of great help there. Just from my limited experience if you are looking to get a ride height as shown you will need all of the changes like hinges front and rear fender wells and much more. If your fabrication skills and time available are up to it then you can save a bunch by mixing and matching components. If this is your first project then going with a proven bolt on package will get you on the road faster and with less frustration.

[69GMC2004]

Originally Posted by HO455

I would suggest posting this on the suspension section. Lots of great help there. Just from my limited experience if you are looking to get a ride height as shown you will need all of the changes like hinges front and rear fender wells and much more. If your fabrication skills and time available are up to it then you can save a bunch by mixing and matching components. If this is your first project then going with a proven bolt on package will get you on the road faster and with less frustration.

Sorry, might be a bit of a noob question, but what hinges are you referring to?

[EVRLET]

Hood hinges. When you go really low, you lose the wheel wells, thus losing the factory hinges. Look at my pic and you’ll see Portbuilt hinges on the firewall.

And the blue truck you’re referencing has a raised bed floor. You can tell because the wheel well is up to the top.

The problem with going low is that you always want to go lower. I started with a 4/6 static drop and hated it because it wasn’t low enough. Then I just bit the bullet and got Portbuilt front and rear and basically lay body pinch weld on the ground. You can’t go any lower. But keep in mind, going really low isn’t cheap. Sure you can do the “cheap” route but it’ll end up costing you more in the long run.

[Z11WEAVER]

I would love to move this post or start a new one in the suspension forums, but cant locate it on my phone. Sorry... if someone can move it , by all means, please do so. Porterbuilt offers a smaller relocated hinge, but i have a feeling they are a weld in hinge? I need to call for clarification. Im not wanting a weld in low profile hinge set.

[Z11WEAVER]

Im running the trailing arm rear, 6" drop springs, 2" flip kit and the 3 hole adjustable trailing arm crossmember. I like a bit of a rake. The stepside is LOW. Too low for my desires, but still cool. The front of the Porterbuilt blue truck is perfect in my eyes. Still drivable for most everyday driving.

[Z11WEAVER]

Rear suspension

[Z11WEAVER]

Some how the picture flipped upside down. Btw, former 4wd converted to 2wd.

[EVRLET]

Low, yes, but I’m on air ride

Yes, you have to weld the plate to the hood. I don’t know of any firewall hinges that you don’t weld to the hood. I’m sure you got your reference photo from Porterbuilt’s IG. If you look at Painter Dans IG, you can see he has modified wheel tubs up front. Yes, he has a static drop, but this is a custom static to be this low. This isn’t an ordinary spindle/spring drop.

[Z11WEAVER]

Correct. Nate sent these to me. The level 2 kit utilizes the adjustable coilovers, not a drop spring.

[slowcpe]

If you've got the time and money, then the Porterbuilt kit is the way to go. As a forewarning it will make your project snowball. Ask me how I know.


I've got a PB Level 1 Air front, Stage 2 Air Deluxe rear and Inner frame stiffener on my '67. All of its killer stuff but I'm nowhere near having this truck on the road.

[Z11WEAVER]

I know all about snowballing. Every car Ive owned or still have, I say i just want a good reliable driver. 10 yrs and thousands of dollars later, still not complete to include the build going different directions several times

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Z11WEAVER

I've been searching for info to do a nice handling aggressive static drop on a round body blazer. I purchased a 74 suare body 5 lug front set-up. My initial plans were to instal 2.5 CPP Drop spindles and 3" drop springs. Maybe even 3" drop spindles and 4" drop springs. Tech guy said I should also update to their tubular upper and lower control arms and ad a front sway bar. Then I saw the stance on a Porterbuilt level 2 kit, that has the stance that Im looking for. The bad, this kit is very expensive and requires different hinges, oil pan (for LS) and different or modified inner fenders. I'm trying to convince myself, this is the kit to pursue, but is a guy really making any improvements with this kit vs. the much cheaper factory style upgrades? I do like the idea of improved ground clearance with the Porterbuilt crossmember. FYI, Going to run 20x 8's up front. If I just go with the 74 set-up, are there any real advantages of the CPP tubular control arms other that the cool factor?

That blue short-fleet truck pictured is drivable @ that height because the crossmember, other structural components, & body parts are relocated higher so it still has ground + suspension travel clearance. It has an engineered system that allows the aggressive drop.

Using CPP spindles & drop springs will get you an average, moderate drop. Trying to get it lower by utilizing 'more' drop w/the spindle & spring combo will kill ride quality because it will be bottoming out constantly. Once you go beyond 5"F/7"R drops, things need to start being changed to maintain ride quality:

*Front tires buzz the wheel wells (depending on tire OD).
*Front lower control arm pivot points make contact w/the road.
*Limited front shock travel (shorter shocks minimize travel which impacts ride quality).

*Rear axle tubes bottoming against the frame. C-notches help, but that leads to contact elsewhere.
*Rear differential housing can make contact w/the bed floor.
*Limited rear shock travel (shorter shocks minimize travel which impacts ride quality). Aggressive lowering can also impact shock geometry thus ride quality.

If you want that height, bypass the CPP springs/arms/etc & go w/a kit designed for your desired/specific/targeted height or be prepared to modify the existing platform vs how the factory set things up. Yes, it will be more expensive because more needs to be done. But, more needs to be done so the vehicle is more enjoyable for the driving experience.