The 1960 - 1966 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Factory Correct Restoration Thread

[Submariner616]

Funny thing about that VIN. It is K2535..... Shouldn't it be K2545....?

[Ronster66]

Originally Posted by LT1 Burb

Trust me, after spending hours researching which bolt goes where, the horrible bowtie will be emblazened in your brain.

I can totally relate to that. I’ve never been comfortable with using “bumper style” bolts to attach the “bracket covers” or “filler panels” or whatever they are officially called. It just doesn’t look like what the factory would do, but then again, I didn’t even realize my truck was supposed to have them until reproductions became available a couple of years ago. I had never seen these panels on a truck until I spotted this one at our local park last fall. Not sure if these bolts are factory original, but they sure appear to be. This truck had a “few” layers of paint, but otherwise seemed to be very unmolested. Anybody know if these bolts are correct and, if they are, where I could find four of them with the correct “P” marking on the head?

[damnyankee36]

Don't know if you saw this thread. It shows another type of bolt and someone mentions yet another style that might be correct. Start at post #10

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=575617

[Ronster66]

Thanks, Yankee. I’ll check it out. Hopefully someone can nail down what was used from the factory. Unfortunately, I never found the owner of that blue ‘64 and I haven’t seen it around town in a LONG time. Hopefully, he just has it put away for the winter.

[LT1 Burb]

Originally Posted by damnyankee36

Don't know if you saw this thread. It shows another type of bolt and someone mentions yet another style that might be correct. Start at post #10

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=575617

I would be more inclined to believe the P head is more accurate, I have not seen that bolt anywhere on any 64-66.

[Ronster66]

I agree. The P head bolts really look like something the factory would use. Hoping someone can positively nail it down and hope they also know where these can be purchased. If boneyards are my only hope, I’m all but out of luck around here. I used to have a yard nearby that was LOADED with ‘60-‘66 trucks. When scrap metal prices went through the roof a few years back, it seemed they couldn’t haul stuff out of there fast enough. Nothing left today but an empty woods and a couple of school buses next to the abandoned office. Makes me sick to even drive by.

[oem4me]

Originally Posted by Ronster66

I agree. The P head bolts really look like something the factory would use. Hoping someone can positively nail it down and hope they also know where these can be purchased. If boneyards are my only hope, I’m all but out of luck around here. I used to have a yard nearby that was LOADED with ‘60-‘66 trucks. When scrap metal prices went through the roof a few years back, it seemed they couldn’t haul stuff out of there fast enough. Nothing left today but an empty woods and a couple of school buses next to the abandoned office. Makes me sick to even drive by.

Pretty sure the "p" bolts are not the right ones. I personally have never owned an original truck that came from the factory with the sport bumper and filler panels, so I can't say with authority what the right bolt is. Jon (member 60-66) has that info. I bought some bumper fillers from him awhile back, installed them with hardware store bolts, and he spotted them. He then so appropriately pointed out that with a handle like OEM4ME, I kinda should get it right. Ha ha. Well, I definitely agree.
If I remember right, the correct fastener is a machine screw. Big rounded phillips head, 1/4-20 threads, and a nut and washer below. DO NOT quote me on this. Ask the master (aka 60-66) on here.

[Ronster66]

Thanks oem, hope “60-66” chimes in on this. He definitely seems to know his stuff. The link damnyankee put up shows something similar to what you’re describing. My truck is FAR from a “concours restoration”, but if I can make something correct without killing myself or mortgaging the house, I like to do it. Especially on the exterior of the truck.

[damnyankee36]

Originally Posted by Ronster66

I agree...I used to have a yard nearby that was LOADED with ‘60-‘66 trucks. When scrap metal prices went through the roof a few years back, it seemed they couldn’t haul stuff out of there fast enough. Nothing left today but an empty woods and a couple of school buses next to the abandoned office. Makes me sick to even drive by.

Same story here. The little stuff like hardware were plentiful. No more...

Originally Posted by Ronster66

...My truck is FAR from a “concours restoration”, but if I can make something correct without killing myself or mortgaging the house, I like to do it. Especially on the exterior of the truck.

Yeah, stuff like that is easy and cheap to do. Not that most people would know the difference but it makes me feel good. Even when I modify a truck I try to do it like the factory would have done it or make it appear like it was a factory option.

[HOTFUN]

If I remember right, the correct fastener is a machine screw. Big rounded phillips head, 1/4-20 threads, and a nut and washer below. DO NOT quote me on this. Ask the master (aka 60-66) on here.

OEM4ME is exactly correct on his machine screw bolts in the gravel pan with nuts and washers. They also used the same screw in the front bed panel to bolt to box sides so you can usually find four very nice used ones to have the correct factory hardware. Mark

[Brad54]

Originally Posted by HOTFUN

If I remember right, the correct fastener is a machine screw. Big rounded phillips head, 1/4-20 threads, and a nut and washer below. DO NOT quote me on this. Ask the master (aka 60-66) on here.

OEM4ME is exactly correct on his machine screw bolts in the gravel pan with nuts and washers. They also used the same screw in the front bed panel to bolt to box sides so you can usually find eight very nice used ones to have the correct factory hardware. Mark

I've pulled two sets of those off unmolested junkyard trucks, and they were big phillips screws. (and one was a pain to get them off of, becasue the heads were rotten and wanted to cam-out).
I've rarely seen those filler panels on trucks though... surely people didn't remove them--there'd be little reason to remove them but keep the original bumper and brackets there.

[HOTFUN]

Here's the 1/4 inch screw and my panel on my 66. I have several complete OEM rear bumpers with these screws used on them. I'm sure this is the same Phillip's head bolt used on a 67 to 72 front bed panel behind cab side.

[Ronster66]

Originally Posted by HOTFUN

...OEM4ME is exactly correct on his machine screw bolts in the gravel pan with nuts and washers. They also used the same screw in the front bed panel to bolt to box sides so you can usually find eight very nice used ones to have the correct factory hardware. Mark

Thanks, Mark. Looks like I’ll be twisting my brother’s arm (Mopar guy) to see if he can locate some out in sunny/dry SoCal. My chances of finding anything good around here are VERY slim. If Mother Nature hasn’t totally eaten them, they’ve been sent to the crusher.

Originally Posted by Brad54

I've pulled two sets of those off unmolested junkyard trucks, and they were big phillips screws. (and one was a pain to get them off of, becasue the heads were rotten and wanted to cam-out).
I've rarely seen those filler panels on trucks though... surely people didn't remove them--there'd be little reason to remove them but keep the original bumper and brackets there.

Thanks to you too Brad. It seems we have a consensus on the phillips head screw. I’ll definitely have my PB Blaster in hand if I find a donor truck.

I agree with you. 30 years ago, I spent countless hours scouring junkyards and I crawled all over who knows how many trucks. I don’t remember ever seeing a set of these panels on a truck...and I was ALWAYS looking for a chrome rear bumper...come to think of it, I never saw many of those either. Hmmm...there may be a connection... Most trucks around here had the dealer installed, diamond plate, “go ahead, I dare ya to rear-end me” rear bumper.

[Ronster66]

Great pictures! Thanks! Now that first picture looks RIGHT! THAT looks like something the factory would do. I think there were too many layers of paint on the other example I saw. It just didn’t look good. Yours looks perfect. And thanks for telling me more places I can find these. My buddy has a ‘67...maybe when he’s not looking...

[HOTFUN]

These box bolts on the front bed panel are generally very clean as they are painted on head side and the bolts are mostly protected from road salt. At best just look around for someone who made a pickup box trailer out of a 67-72 and it would be simple to get to them and screw them out and pop some regular hex head bolts back in.

[Ronster66]

Excellent idea! Thank you. I just might know where I can find one of those.

[Ronster66]

Excellent idea! Thank you. I just might know where I can find one of those.

[Ronster66]

Looks like I may not have to head to the boneyard after all. Classic Parts offers this stainless bolt kit for $6.95 and it includes four of the phillips head screws.

https://www.classicparts.com/1958-72...ctinfo/09-915/

[cj847]

I can't seem to find the vacuum line routings. Does someone have a schematic? Particularly interested in what the fitting looks like on the 6 cyl intake. and the routings to heater controls.

[Johns 66]

Found these tags on the seat back and bottom when I took them a part....Im assuming these are fabric tags...but does anyone know what they mean?

[cwcarpenter98]

I found one of those tags on the bottom of my seat when I had it out last as well. It's still attached, but I have no idea what it is for

[jonzcustomshop]

Does anyone have pictures and info on the correct route for the wire that goes from the horn relay to the positive battery cable?

Does it come through the hole next to the battery tray? are there any clips that hold it on the right side after the last one that is under the core support? Also if it does go through the hole to the right of the battery tray, what is the hole for in the top of the core support to the left of the battery tray?

[60-66]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

Does anyone have pictures and info on the correct route for the wire that goes from the horn relay to the positive battery cable?

Does it come through the hole next to the battery tray? are there any clips that hold it on the right side after the last one that is under the core support? Also if it does go through the hole to the right of the battery tray, what is the hole for in the top of the core support to the left of the battery tray?

What year Jon ?

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by 60-66

What year Jon ?

Thanks, 1965/1966.

[allchevy58]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

Does anyone have pictures and info on the correct route for the wire that goes from the horn relay to the positive battery cable?

Does it come through the hole next to the battery tray? are there any clips that hold it on the right side after the last one that is under the core support? Also if it does go through the hole to the right of the battery tray, what is the hole for in the top of the core support to the left of the battery tray?

It comes off the relay, goes through two holes on radiator support, in front of the radiator, three clips hold it up in front of radiator, over to hole in radiator support right side of battery.