My 1980 Silverado build thread

[SLDPULR]

Little update after the show. Won 2nd in the Dyno Challenge.

https://youtu.be/33WnfAtLMaE

[SLDPULR]

Need some advice.

With the turbo on this thing the under hood temperatures are out of control. The truck does great when driving but if I get caught in traffic the truck hits 240 degrees really quick. I am running a 3 row aluminum radiator with dual electric fans, I have wrapped every possible piece of exhaust with heat wrap, installed a turbo blanket and run both fans as soon as the temp goes above 160 degrees. Does anyone have any advice on any ways to help cool the engine bay and motor?

Would a lower temp thermostat help at all? I am still running the factory 6.0 thermostat. I have thought about removing the inner fenders just to have somewhere for air to escape but I really dont want to do that. I think it looks cheap.

Next thought would be a cowl hood but one of the things I love about this truck is the stock outside appearance (minus the wheels and fender exit exhaust of course)

Any ideas would be helpful.

Thank you

[Dead Parrot]

Between the exhaust filling the top of the engine compartment and the intercooler in front of the radiator, the fans probably can't make enough pressure to move air when you are stopped. Doubt a thermostat change would help.

Since you have already switched to electric fans, there is no requirement that the radiator has to be at the front of the engine compartment. Or that you only have one. If you only have one gas tank, maybe a long skinny radiator could fit where the 2nd tank would sit. Take the water from the 'cool' output of the factory radiator and feed to the intake of the 2nd one.

Or fit a radiator/fan setup inside a chrome tool box in the bed.

[SLDPULR]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Between the exhaust filling the top of the engine compartment and the intercooler in front of the radiator, the fans probably can make enough pressure to move air when you are stopped. Doubt a thermostat change would help.

Since you have already switched to electric fans, there is no requirement that the radiator has to be at the front of the engine compartment. Or that you only have one. If you only have one gas tank, maybe a long skinny radiator could fit where the 2nd tank would sit. Take the water from the 'cool' output of the factory radiator and feed to the intake of the 2nd one.

Or fit a radiator/fan setup inside a chrome tool box in the bed.

Interesting thought. My next project is doing an 8 point cage. I may just completely relocate it to the bed and mount it to the rear bars. That would free up a ton of room for a bigger intercooler!

Great idea!

[z71se]

Let me just start by saying I have built a couple LS iron block, turbocharged trucks and none of them had any cooling issues whatsoever. My 2005 had a factory 1-core 1" thick aluminum radiator (with 165k miles) and OEM electric fans and a factory 197* tstat and a factory 165k mile water pump and had absolutely zero cooling issues. If you make a post on performancetrucks.net you'll find very little mention whatsoever of overheating issues. In fact, overheating on any LS motor, iron block or aluminum, is uncommon unless there is something functionally wrong with the cooling system.

One issue I have had in the past is an issue with aftermarket water pumps vs OEM water pumps and the thermostat not seating properly in the water pump housing, which led to the thermostat not opening at all. If I had to guess, that would be your problem. If you're not losing coolant which it doesn't sound like you are. When I had my thermostat issues, the hoses would get real hot but I couldn't get any circulation through the system. By adding a 160 tstat, you're bandaiding the problem, but it might resolve your thermostat opening problems. If I had to guess, you're running a parts store aftermarket water pump?

[SLDPULR]

Originally Posted by z71se

Let me just start by saying I have built a couple LS iron block, turbocharged trucks and none of them had any cooling issues whatsoever. My 2005 had a factory 1-core 1" thick aluminum radiator (with 165k miles) and OEM electric fans and a factory 197* tstat and a factory 165k mile water pump and had absolutely zero cooling issues. If you make a post on performancetrucks.net you'll find very little mention whatsoever of overheating issues. In fact, overheating on any LS motor, iron block or aluminum, is uncommon unless there is something functionally wrong with the cooling system.

One issue I have had in the past is an issue with aftermarket water pumps vs OEM water pumps and the thermostat not seating properly in the water pump housing, which led to the thermostat not opening at all. If I had to guess, that would be your problem. If you're not losing coolant which it doesn't sound like you are. When I had my thermostat issues, the hoses would get real hot but I couldn't get any circulation through the system. By adding a 160 tstat, you're bandaiding the problem, but it might resolve your thermostat opening problems. If I had to guess, you're running a parts store aftermarket water pump?

That is true it is an aftermarket WP.

The motor is out of a 2006 Yukon Denali. When I got the motor it had a very new looking water pump. I just thought I got lucky that it had already been replaced. It would have never crossed my mind.

Would a good AC delco unit be the best replacement?