Another ‘65 C20 14-bolt conversion

[azdeltawye]

Originally Posted by 4x4toy

Looking at your picture in post 5. I believe you have you Primary and Secondary shoes reversed.

Great catch!

I completely forgot that the smaller shoe goes in the front…

Thanks!!

[azdeltawye]

Brake shoes now installed correctly.

Thanks again 4x4toy…

[azdeltawye]

I forgot to bring this up earlier in the thread and figured it was worth mentioning now.

The original Eaton rear end has approx. 3” o.d. axle tubes whereas the 14-bolt has 3.25” o.d. tubes. The larger diameter tube interferes with the U-bolts due to the trailing arm angle (not perpendicular to the axle). And as such requires some clearancing of the axle tubes with a die grinder to make the U-bolts fit. I removed about 1/8” of material from each side where the inside of the U-bolt touches the axle tube. You can see in the pic below how the axle tube is larger than the distance between the U-bolt holes in the perches.

Like I said I forgot to mention this before and another member who was doing a similar conversion brought this up as a concern.

[Jahloha]

I appreciate this write up tremendously! I just purchased a 14B and am prepping for a similar swap.

I have bookmarked this thread.

Again, thank you so much!

Is it possible to get custom u bolts made to fit the larger spacing?

[azdeltawye]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

I appreciate this write up tremendously! …
Is it possible to get custom u bolts made to fit the larger spacing?

Thanks!
Sure I suppose you could get larger U-bolts to clear the larger axle tubes. However that would require slotting the holes in the trailing arms and shock mount plates to fit. Seems like a lot more work than notching the tube…

[LostMy65]

I didn't re-use the original narrower diameter eaton axle u-bolts , I took my Captainfab saddles down to a local shop, and they made me new U-Bolts.
Here is the link;
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...89#post5689589

[jakelund]

Lost My65, does the new U-bolts with larger spacing (for the larger 14B tubes) fit the holes in the trailing arms? Or did you have to enlarge the holes in the trailing arms?

I'm in process of doing this but don't know if I should buy original bolts and perches or what..?

[LostMy65]

I had no trouble getting the new U-Bolts through the holes in the Trailing Arms.

[jakelund]

Ok, thanks
And thank you for an interesting and informative thread, nice truck you have there!

[50bomb]

bump to the top for a killer looking truck and build. Love the rear end swap!

[azdeltawye]

Originally Posted by 50bomb

bump to the top for a killer looking truck and build. Love the rear end swap!

Thanks!
One of these years I'll get around to upgrading with a True Trac & 4.57 gears.


Darren

[rideblue00]

very good write-up, subscribed as I may have to do this on my c20 someday

[wcknotts]

Whai size was the axle tube on your 14 bolt I'm attempting to use a 2000 2500 and the tubes are 3 3/8 did you have any proplem with the u bolts going trailing arms thank you great post

[Captainfab]

All 14 bolts both 9.5 and 10.5 have 3-3/8" axle tubes that are about 3/8" thick.

Originally Posted by wcknotts

Whai size was the axle tube on your 14 bolt I'm attempting to use a 2000 2500 and the tubes are 3 3/8 did you have any proplem with the u bolts going trailing arms thank you great post

[rideblue00]

I would imagine that its better to drill the clearance hole bigger in the perch, than reducing axle tube diameter. That will create a weak spot...may not be an issue, but none the less it will weaken them. U-bolts should be available from local trailer supply shops or online of course. Or custom made, better be careful that they aren't too soft though.

[Captainfab]

The issue is not just the hole spacing on the 14 bolt trailing arm mounts that I make. It is also the spacing of the holes that go thru the trailing arm. Those will have to be spread farther apart as well.

Personally I don't think that grinding a 1/16" or so groove into the 3/8" thick axle tube is going to weaken the axle tube significantly enough to cause an issue.

Originally Posted by rideblue00

I would imagine that its better to drill the clearance hole bigger in the perch, than reducing axle tube diameter. That will create a weak spot...may not be an issue, but none the less it will weaken them. U-bolts should be available from local trailer supply shops or online of course. Or custom made, better be careful that they aren't too soft though.

[71'tahoe]

Great write up! Good looking truck also! I like that you are still working your old truck!

Captainfab How much you getting out of a set of axle perches?

[Captainfab]

Here is the for sale thread.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=620836

Originally Posted by 71'tahoe

Great write up! Good looking truck also! I like that you are still working your old truck!

Captainfab How much you getting out of a set of axle perches?

[marco02_]

I have a question since i am in the middle of doing this conversion did you have to get the brake hose custom made or were you able to find one off the shelf? Also what is the length of your pan hard bar because i am trying to replicate it for my c20. Thanks in advance.

[azdeltawye]

Originally Posted by marco02_

... did you have to get the brake hose custom made or were you able to find one off the shelf?
Also what is the length of your pan hard bar....

I used the factory MY2000 rear brake hose but had to get and adapter at NAPA to mate the 2000 hose to the 1965 truck.

I made the pan hard rod adjustable. See post #4. Overall length is around 38"

Thx

[marco02_]

Thanks for that information. I now have another problem with my driveshaft. The original driveshaft my truck had got swapped out for a 1/2 ton driveshaft and that finally gave up. I saw one of your posts refering to picking one up at the junkyard from a c3500 later model truck. Do you happen to know if the carrier bearing will need to be swapped out or do they have the same inner diameter. Thanks

[azdeltawye]

Originally Posted by marco02_

Thanks for that information.... Do you happen to know if the carrier bearing will need to be swapped out or do they have the same inner diameter. Thanks

Your welcome!

I don't remember the diameter but I would certainly think that the 1 Ton carrier bearing would be larger than the 1/2 ton part...

You could probably do a quick comparison on RockAuto.com or any online parts house and see if it is the same part No.

[marco02_]

Thanks for the reply, I went to the junkyard today and found a driveshaft from a 3500 but the yoke was way to big, and the front half was way to long. Do you recall what year truck you got it from and if it was a crew cab/extended cab/single cab? Also the center support bearings are way different from my c20. Does yours have the hd support bearing for normal duty one?