Factory Clear Coat Question--Advice Needed

I am posting this question on the general forum because it relates more to restoration/originality. So, my 72' K10 is now rust and dent free (did not have much of either but decided to take it down to the metal to get it perfect) and will soon be ready for medium bronze metallic. My question is did the factory in 72 use clear coat? If so how shiny and if not, would you guys recommend a clear coat in any event (and if so more flat, medium gloss or high gloss)? My truck is very original with great provenance and I would like it to look like it did in 72' but do not mind using clear coat if that will help protect it without detracting from the factory paint look. Cost is not an issue--I just want to do the right thing in terms of originality and protection. Thanks in advance!! Martin

[ls1nova71]

The factory didnt use clear coat, it was just regular old acrylic lacquer. You can still buy it, but it's tough to find these days. You have several options, base/clear, single stage acrylic urethane or enamel, or lacquer. Base/clear will definitely be shinier than the truck was originally, but I would go this route before the single stage since it generally flows out better and therefore looks better.

[special-K]

I like the single stage urethane for an original restoration.

[72c20customcamper]

Depends on what your looking to do with the truck. If your looking to enter shows and want trophies base coat clear coat is your best option for metallic colors as you can cut and buff to a glass shine. Same can be done with solid single stage urethane. Also depends on if you are going to do it or have it professionally done. If you plan on doing it bc/cc would be my advise its much more forgiving.

I'm using single on my stepper. I kinda like the orange peel and shine you get from it. You can do the same with bc/cc but why pay the extra coin.

[71blksuper4x4]

You won’t be able to cut and buff really with a metallic single stage. Anything with metal flakes will need a clear coat over it to get that perfect look. Sanding a metallic single stage can lead to a blotchy or streaky look.

[ls1nova71]

In sngle stage the metallic tends to mottle up pretty bad too which is the reason I would avoid them for anything but solid colors.

[Terrysch]

Factory did not use clear coat.
Pretty sure clear coat was not used until the 80's.

Clear coat was added to take the UV protection out of the base paint, and put into the clear coat. Less expensive than putting the chemicals/additives in the base colored paint.
FYI - clear coat is actually still paint, but it is just clear.

I am not a paint engineer. But I am a mechanical engineer who learned a little bit about paint from the paint engineers I worked with at John Deere and Mercury Marine. I have DKS - Don't Know Stuff.

[HO455]

Some down the road considerations. First off clear coats will fail and repainting is the only fix. There will never be a "patina" fad for IROC Camaros.
If you have an accident ( or forbid the thought, a garage mishap) and need to have an area repainted a multi stage paint job will allow a much closer match to the existing paint. The clear coat can be tinted to make up for fading or other slight differences. A repair with single stage will generally require painting the entire panel. A mult stage paint job can be applied in a small area and be unnoticed for some time. Over time exposure to UV rays causes the repaint and the old paint to fade in different ways and the repair becomes more apparent.
I believe that LS1Nova71's concerns are caused during the application as single stage metalics have become a bit of a lost art and the old acrylic enamel formula was more forgiving. Get the right guy and use a quality product and single stage metalics can be beautiful. I went that way with my Burban's paint, as it is a daily driver and lives outside, unlike that cat the old lady drug home.

Thanks so much for all of the information guys—- very much appreciated!!