Need some re assembly help on a 66 please

[msg]

Ive been working on my truck for years and I am now finally in the re assembly stage. The approach has been to reverse step for step on each part I took off. I took pics of each part during the teardown to use as my reference along with the assembly manual. The first thing Im running into is to properly torque each part. Last night with some help from my nephew we got the crossmember back on the frame and ran the two upper bolts for now just to get it in place. Between the pics I have and the manual I could tell the direction the bolts needed to go, but the torque specs are not easy to read from the manual..its garbled up with the re copying through the years I guess. So for ex..heres the pics of before and now

[msg]

The bolts are in place, just need torquing

[msg]

the assembly manual is new to me and not so clear, but I guess 38 is safe? Same for the bolts that go vertically from underneath to the frame I would think.

[vince1]

Keep at it and you will eventually get there.

There are lots of torque specs online if you can't find what you are looking for.

[ACK]

Here's front end torque specs from the manual. Congrats on putting it back together, hope all goes smoothly.

[msg]

Originally Posted by vince1

Keep at it and you will eventually get there.

There are lots of torque specs online if you can't find what you are looking for.

Thanks Vince, I appreciate the encouragement. Feels a little intimidating, once I get a few parts together I'll relax a bit.

Originally Posted by ACK

Here's front end torque specs from the manual. Congrats on putting it back together, hope all goes smoothly.

Thanks Ack, I have a shop manual and like a dope didnt think to look there. I just had assembly manual on the brain.

Ive got another question on the lower control arm and the boot. Is it supposed to be snugged up before I re assemble? I rented a ball joint press and got these in but the gap had me wondering if the pressure from the install is supposed to make it flush.

[bigmoe]

Don't torque the control arm bushings until you've got weight on the wheels.

[cj847]

Originally Posted by msg

the assembly manual is new to me and not so clear, but I guess 38 is safe? Same for the bolts that go vertically from underneath to the frame I would think.

I think 60-80 ft/lbs is what you want on those bolts. 38 in/lbs is like hand tite

[msg]

Originally Posted by bigmoe

Don't torque the control arm bushings until you've got weight on the wheels.

Will do Moe, if I ever get wheels on

Originally Posted by cj847

I think 60-80 ft/lbs is what you want on those bolts. 38 in/lbs is like hand tite

Thanks, I got 80lbs on them finally!

Now I have been reassembling the arms and trying to move on to the spindles, but the lower control arm ball joint boot is a PITA. I tried greasing it up and sliding it on, and it just wasnt working. I end up with it just sitting on top each time

[msg]

I called the MOOG tech line and the tech said I needed to rent that ball joint kit again and press it on. Jeez. Would have been good to have in the instructions, they did print that it needs to be flush with the arm over the joint. Doesnt say how.

So I go rent it again and hook it up

[msg]

And of course it ripped the boot. So I went to the parts store and they dont just sell the boot, you have to buy the whole thing again. The manager had mercy and ordered a new one and I can do an exchange when the part gets in tomorrow. When it comes to installing the boot, how do you guys deal with this issue?

[nsb29]

When I did mine it pushed down when I installed the spindles

[msg]

Originally Posted by nsb29

When I did mine it pushed down when I installed the spindles

I thought the same, but my luck after getting this coil install worked out and everything in place..the boot still wouldn't have seated. Trying to avoid as many slip ups as possible.

[msg]

I did get the replacement boot but had the same trouble getting it on. The other side turned out better...but here is what I did. I took the larger tube that gave some more room for the boot to spread outward onto the tapered shape of the ball joint to keep it from binding and getting torn. But I still couldnt get it flush..it was snug after the hammering but I thought the spindle install and coil pressure would make it more flush but it hasnt yet. Once there are wheels on the front I will be able to put weight on it. Hopefully then it presses closer to the arm. Getting the coil in was tricky without the truck having enough weight to counter the floor jack pressure, heres a link if interested in how it was done.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=795128

[msg]

Since I had a conversion done years back to disc brakes the install manual and shop manual wont be much help here. So I was wondering which torque spec to use for these bolts top and bottom. Im also needing to figure out how the top portion of the shock mounts to the frame since the instructions couldnt cover it. Here are my reference pics of what it looked like before I tore it down and once I did there is a shot of the lower portion so I can see what order the bolts and nut went directionally. But the top I didnt get a good pic of.

[msg]

Here is the shock and new parts and the old one where the top bolt parts are fused together

[scottofksu]

I did 140 for top bolt and 60 for bottom bolt on the shock.

http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com...que_specs.html

When I have ingested enough coffee and nicotine, and make it out to the shop I’ll get some pics of the ball joint. I used the same parts (e.g., MOOG).

[scottofksu]

Got some shots.

1. Boot doesn't touch a-arm.
2. You know they are fully driven home when the collar for the ball joint touches the collar on the a-arm.

[SkinnyG]

I've never pressed the boots on with a press or anything, I've just shoved them on as snug as I can by hand. Once assembled, it will be fine.

[Chad215]

Originally Posted by msg

I did get the replacement boot but had the same trouble getting it on. The other side turned out better...but here is what I did. I took the larger tube that gave some more room for the boot to spread outward onto the tapered shape of the ball joint to keep it from binding and getting torn. But I still couldnt get it flush..it was snug after the hammering but I thought the spindle install and coil pressure would make it more flush but it hasnt yet. Once there are wheels on the front I will be able to put weight on it. Hopefully then it presses closer to the arm. Getting the coil in was tricky without the truck having enough weight to counter the floor jack pressure, heres a link if interested in how it was done.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=795128

I just installed mine and this is about as good as I could get them also.