Oil Changing Woes

[Ultrasummer]

So I'm changing the oil for the first time on a 1968 c10 with a 307 in it. I see it has a canister type oil filter. When I take the oil filter off, there is no filter inside and there is no O-ring. Didn't appear to be leaking oil like crazy but then again I haven't had the vehicle that long. So I go to NAPA and get a new filter and it comes with O ring. I made sure there was no old O ring left in place. Nope. It's a bit of a balancing act to fit the O ring. Can't really put it on the metal housing of the canister unless I balance it there. When I try to place the ring up into the truck, it won't stick and keeps falling down. I get it to stick fairly well and it seems like it's in place but it's in kind of a precarious position. I tighten it all up. Add oil. Start it up and now have a lake of oil on my garage floor. Shut it down immediately and begin to scratch my head. Ok so.....probably that O ring. But there wasn't one from the P.O. Hmmmm. And I don't know much about these canister filters but seems like most oil filters have many holes around the perimeter where oil goes into the filter and then exits the filter thru the main canal back into the truck. This new filter I was given has no holes around the perimeter.....rather it has many holes on the sides with solid aluminum caps on each end (except for the main channel for the oil to return to the truck. It is such a close fit (the filter into the canister ) that I can't imagine how oil could enter from the sides. Seriously thinking about one of those adapter things to go to a spin on filter. Any words of wisdom?

[Ultrasummer]

Oh and btw, I would take a pic of the filter but right now it's still in place and I have a puddle of oil that is covered in that stuff to dry up spills of this nature. Next weekend I will clean up the mess, take the filter back off and take some pics. Had enough headache with something as simple as this for one weekend.

[kaycee]

You sure you got the old o-ring out? Get a pick and make sure it's not still in there if there wasnt one in there it must of been a real b##$ to get off.Take the new o-ring and dip it in oil take a dab of grease and dab the o-ring so it will hold onto engine block.Spin the filter canister on, the oil will let it slide against mating surface,tighten to spec. Or ditch it and get a spin on conversion

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Your old gasket is still in there. It is old & brittle so it feels like something solid. Take out the 2 bolts that hold the adapter on & the old gasket will be easy to remove. There might even be 2 of them. After replaceing the adapter the new gasket should go in the groove & stay. Make sure they gave you the right filter. You may have one for a bypass filter like used on the 6 cyl. models & 55 V-8's. A spin on filter will be the best way to go unless you want complete originality.
George

[Rufas]

Get yourself a spin-on filter adapter to replace that cumbersome canister filter.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-1134

[Steeveedee]

The old canister filters were very efficient but truly messy to change. I'd bet money that there is an o-ring stuck up in there, as has been mentioned. I learned that the hard way on my eldest sister's '57 Plymouth. I'd personally change to the throw-away filter and adapter, but it's your truck.

[Willys_MB]

100% agree with this. It was the first thing I did when I got my truck.

Originally Posted by Rufas

Get yourself a spin-on filter adapter to replace that cumbersome canister filter.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-1134

[Stocker]

A bit late to the party but I gotta agree with the above. 55 years ago I was a kid working in a service station and canister filters were common. Also common was an old gasket being left in place (as mentioned, they can be hard to remove) and a new one added, causing a leak. Rufus has the right idea, get an adapter and enjoy changing spin-on filters.

[Ultrasummer]

Ordered the oil filter adapter today. The more I think about it, I'd bet you anything you guys are right. It's probably so hard from 50 yrs it felt just like the surrounding metal when I picked at it. Looking forward to putting the new adapter on with a spin on filter. I'll let you know when I continue the mystery next weekend

[Steeveedee]

No telling how long that can was on there with no cartridge in it. But those rings can get hard pretty quickly. Note that those adapters usually use a F**d part number filter. Something to entertain your parts person with.

[Ultrasummer]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

No telling how long that can was on there with no cartridge in it. But those rings can get hard pretty quickly. Note that those adapters usually use a F**d part number filter. Something to entertain your parts person with.

Are you saying that with the adapter in place, I can't just go to the parts store and tell him I want a spin on oil filter for a 1968 C10? When I bought the canister oil filter, one of their questions was Canister or spin on type?

[Rufas]

Originally Posted by Ultrasummer

Are you saying that with the adapter in place, I can't just go to the parts store and tell him I want a spin on oil filter for a 1968 C10? When I bought the canister oil filter, one of their questions was Canister or spin on type?

From the instruction sheet of the adapter from Summit I mentioned earlier:
"one of the following filters MAY be used: Fram® HP4, Baldwin B279 or Purolator
L35132". Any of those filters will sub to any filter brand you would like to use.

Unless your set on using the correct numbered factory filter, I don't see an issue getting a filter for your truck.

[rsavage]

I always used grease to hold the new o-ring up in the groove and held the canister up against it while tightening the canister bolt. I've had plenty over the years and really not messier if you have a large diameter oil drain pan. But all said, the spin on adapter will make things easier for you.

[maverickmk]

Originally Posted by Rufas

Get yourself a spin-on filter adapter to replace that cumbersome canister filter.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-1134

Oh wow, for under $20.00 that's a no brainer.

[burb71]

I have a question for anyone that knows.
I have three 1968s, 2 trucks have the canister type filter, 1 has spin-on type.
I like the canister style.
Here is my question?
On the 1 truck that has the spin-on filter, to change it back to the canister type, do I just take the spin-on adapter off and the canister type mounts back on the block, or do I now have to get a canister filter adapter?

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Your old gasket is still in there. It is old & brittle so it feels like something solid. Take out the 2 bolts that hold the adapter on & the old gasket will be easy to remove. There might even be 2 of them. After replaceing the adapter the new gasket should go in the groove & stay. Make sure they gave you the right filter. You may have one for a bypass filter like used on the 6 cyl. models & 55 V-8's. A spin on filter will be the best way to go unless you want complete originality.
George

exactly! I had to chisel the old seal out of my dad's 65 c20 283..

I was fortunate find an old factory gm spin-on adapter still in the package from a seller on here..

next oil change it's getting the nos adapter

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by Ultrasummer

Are you saying that with the adapter in place, I can't just go to the parts store and tell him I want a spin on oil filter for a 1968 C10? When I bought the canister oil filter, one of their questions was Canister or spin on type?

a little friendly advice - yer better off knowing the p/n you need before walking into a parts store these days

keep the box tabs for your maintenance items in the glove box for future reference makes even simpler..

good luck!

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by burb71

I have a question for anyone that knows.
I have three 1968s, 2 trucks have the canister type filter, 1 has spin-on type.
I like the canister style.
Here is my question?
On the 1 truck that has the spin-on filter, to change it back to the canister type, do I just take the spin-on adapter off and the canister type mounts back on the block, or do I now have to get a canister filter adapter?

you'll have to peek up there to see, possible later model block would not have an adapter..

not sure what year or blocks that changed, could be yours fell in the middle of transition..

if it does have the adapter attached up there, should be able to remove it back to cart style..

maybe you and op could work out a deal for his cart kit after his is converted

good luck!

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

a little friendly advice - yer better off knowing the p/n you need before walking into a parts store these days

You mean like the parts guy who asked me if I had a diesel when I told him I needed spark plugs? (true story)

[maverickmk]

[72c20customcamper]

I go threw it everytime with my chevelle. Goes like this, year? 66 . Model? Chevelle SS396. Engine? 496 . That's when the guy goes blank.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

a little friendly advice - yer better off knowing the p/n you need before walking into a parts store these days

keep the box tabs for your maintenance items in the glove box for future reference makes even simpler..

good luck!

I use the "Notes" section on my iPhone...I have a separate section with a list of P/N's for all of my vehicles needs. How ever you choose save the information it it's always good to have P/N's for a equal/or that killer bee has recommended.

[Killer Bee]

I got that box top habit from my dad.. he wouldn't use a landline much less a smart phone

mom kept all the farm business records and did all the parts ordering..

but dad would get a wild hair for something while we were in town and he had his system handy

I really like the idea of keeping notes in my phone, so long as can remember where they are

[Ultrasummer]

Success ! Well kind of. After cleaning up the lake of oil under my truck, I went in for a closer inspection. Went in with a pick to see if I could pull out the old O ring. Nope, must be none on it. Took out the two bolts in preparation for the new adapter, pulled out the old component, and then tried one more time at any potential solidified O ring. Sure enough ! Broke free and pulled it out. I had a few colorful words for this thing but it's now out. I'm taking a short break to celebrate this little victory but in looking at the new adapter with the bypass valve on it, does it make a difference in placement. One way vs 180 degrees the other way , regarding the bypass valve?

[toolboxchev]

Try VR1 oil by Valvoline your next oil change. I have been using it on my original block with 1 full rebuild on it. Totaling out to 389,000 miles now.