Suspension pros and cons...

[Andyking1203]

I'm the proud new owner of a 1970 c10 longbed (gonna keep this for the time being) 2wd. The idea is to make a decent driver outta it with maybe a little bracket racing. It currently has a 6cyl 3 spd in it, that'll change to either a healthy small block or a 6.0 ls swap. My questions are. 1, nolimit 4 link or replace all the stock parts with tubular arms and lowering springs. 2 replace the front suspension with tubular a arms and lowering spindles. Thanks in advance

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Andyking1203

I'm the proud new owner of a 1970 c10 longbed (gonna keep this for the time being) 2wd. The idea is to make a decent driver outta it with maybe a little bracket racing. It currently has a 6cyl 3 spd in it, that'll change to either a healthy small block or a 6.0 ls swap. My questions are. 1, nolimit 4 link or replace all the stock parts with tubular arms and lowering springs. 2 replace the front suspension with tubular a arms and lowering spindles. Thanks in advance

What is your budget for each 'end' of the truck?

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What is your budget for each 'end' of the truck?

Budget isnt really a problem, gonna be a slow process reguardless.. obviously want bang for my buck!!!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Andyking1203

Budget isnt really a problem, gonna be a slow process reguardless.. obviously want bang for my buck!!!

There's nothing wrong w/original truck arms in the rear. If the truck has coils @ all 4 corners some simple parts can offer good ride quality & traction. If you desire change, No Limits 4-bar set-up is a great choice since it was mentioned.

If you're sticking w/the original front crossmember, Ridetech has a nice coil-over kit & Hotchkis makes a nice set-up designed to improve handling. If you're changing/ditching the crossmember up front for extreme changes, No Limit, Porterbuilt, Scotts, GSI, Choppin Block, Roadster Shop all offer updated parts that will work.

[68Stepbed]

The torque arm rear flat out HOOKS!!

https://totalcostinvolved.com/produc...evy-c10-truck/

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

There's nothing wrong w/original truck arms in the rear. If the truck has coils @ all 4 corners some simple parts can offer good ride quality & traction. If you desire change, No Limits 4-bar set-up is a great choice since it was mentioned.

If you're sticking w/the original front crossmember, Ridetech has a nice coil-over kit & Hotchkis makes a nice set-up designed to improve handling. If you're changing/ditching the crossmember up front for extreme changes, No Limit, Porterbuilt, Scotts, GSI, Choppin Block, Roadster Shop all offer updated parts that will work.

The front suspension will remain pretty much stock geometry, lower spindles, tubular a arms.. pretty much it. As for the cross member it can stay or go, obviously depending on the route I choose.. ivdont wanna c notch the Frame so itll be slightly lowered. I guess I'm looking for ride quality vs $$$

[Andyking1203]

I'm curious, can anyone give me a specific idea of the rear gear ratio on a 1970, 6cyl 3spd manual base model truck.. thanks

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Andyking1203

I'm curious, can anyone give me a specific idea of the rear gear ratio on a 1970, 6cyl 3spd manual base model truck.. thanks

Prob 3.73 's.

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by Andyking1203

I'm curious, can anyone give me a specific idea of the rear gear ratio on a 1970, 6cyl 3spd manual base model truck.. thanks

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Prob 3.73 's.

Mine was originally a 250/3ott and had 3.73. Some trucks may have had 4.10, but like SCOTI said, 3.73 was more common. The only other option was 3.07, but that was mainly in the automatic trucks.

[Andyking1203]

Thst would be great if it has 3.73 gears, truck is getting a 6.0 with a 4l80... decent combo?

[SCOTI]

Tire sizes play a roll but 3.73's/.75OD gearing is a common OE set-up. It will work well.

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Tire sizes play a roll but 3.73's/.75OD gearing is a common OE set-up. It will work well.

As for tire/rim size. The only definite thing is, itll have 15" rally's on it. (They are free)!! Plus itll look "stockish". Also will be a fairly wide rear tire.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Andyking1203

As for tire/rim size. The only definite thing is, itll have 15" rally's on it. (They are free)!! Plus itll look "stockish". Also will be a fairly wide rear tire.

I was referring to actual tire size (OD) for calculations (engine cruise RPM's).15's thru 22's are only relevant to calculating the sidewall height for a given size which helps get a better idea on ride quality.

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I was referring to actual tire size (OD) for calculations (engine cruise RPM's).15's thru 22's are only relevant to calculating the sidewall height for a given size which helps get a better idea on ride quality.

Not gonna put low profiles on it, I still want a decent wheel well filling tire.. not exactly sure yet..

[Andyking1203]

So with a little research, I found out the truck is a 69, not a 70.. dont really think that matters.

For the time being, can I put a 71/71 ball joint in a 69 a arm? Also will the 71/72 tie rod work with the 69 drag link? Spindles will be for a 71/72.

Also thinking of lowering the truck with the 4" coils from lmc, do I need to replace the pan hard bar, or will stock be ok?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Andyking1203

So with a little research, I found out the truck is a 69, not a 70.. dont really think that matters.

For the time being, can I put a 71/71 ball joint in a 69 a arm? Also will the 71/72 tie rod work with the 69 drag link? Spindles will be for a 71/72.

Also thinking of lowering the truck with the 4" coils from lmc, do I need to replace the pan hard bar, or will stock be ok?

I found out the truck is a 69, not a 70.. dont really think that matters. No, it doesn't. The differences come into play in 71 (disc brakes changed things).

Can I put a 71/71 ball joint in a 69 a arm? Yes.

Will the 71/72 tie rod work with the 69 drag link? You need 71/72 outer tie rod ends for sure. You might need adapter sleeves if the inner/outer thread sizes are different or you can see if 71/72 inners work w/the current drag-link (I've had different results on different trucks as a result of things getting changed over the years).

Also thinking of lowering the truck with the 4" coils from lmc, do I need to replace the pan hard bar, or will stock be ok? The 4" drop coils will prob be ok but you'll be reaching the point of diminishing returns. There are aftermarket adjustable Panhard bars & you'll want one to allow centering the rear end because as it gets lower it will shift to one side. The aftermarket Panhard bars come in different lengths (long & short). The longer the bar, the less side-to-side shift there is when the suspension cycles up/down while driving.

[Andyking1203]

Yes I'd use the 71/72 inner and outter tie rods

If I have to, or if it is suggested, I'd go to no limit... thanks scoti

[Andyking1203]

Doing a 5 lug conversion, on the rear, will axle shafts out of a 94 1500 2wd fit in my 69?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Andyking1203

Doing a 5 lug conversion, on the rear, will axle shafts out of a 94 1500 2wd fit in my 69?

No.

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

No.

Obviously to narrow?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Andyking1203

Obviously to narrow?

The opposite. It's too long.
A 94 1500 (OBS) truck 10bolt is wider than 73-87 10bolt... which is wider than 65-70 12bolt rear end.

[68Stepbed]

When I converted my 68 to 5-lug parts from a 72, I had to also reuse the drag link from the 72 because the 67-70 is different from the 71-72. It may be easier to just convert all of it to 72 parts so ordering replacement parts is simple enough.

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

When I converted my 68 to 5-lug parts from a 72, I had to also reuse the drag link from the 72 because the 67-70 is different from the 71-72. It may be easier to just convert all of it to 72 parts so ordering replacement parts is simple enough.

I'm hopeing to find parts from a local junk yard, once the weather is good. Hopefully I can find what I want/need...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

When I converted my 68 to 5-lug parts from a 72, I had to also reuse the drag link from the 72 because the 67-70 is different from the 71-72. It may be easier to just convert all of it to 72 parts so ordering replacement parts is simple enough.

I've experienced this as well. Back in the day, I would snag center-links from 71/72's just for that reason. But adapters for tie-rod sleeves started eliminating that need. More than one way to get it done now which helps but adds confusion.