55.2-59 hydroboostleak

[FAKKY]

Well turns of both of those caps are plastic.
Destroyed the "end cap" as I didnt have anything that will work - will have to see if I can find something in plumbing that will work to replace.
Got the retaining nut off.
Also got the other plastic hex cap off .... used a die thread and a socket.

But looks like this rack unlike the ones I saw on youtube doesnt seperate from the rack as easy ....... was losing light ......... ill play more tomorrow ...... and get a game plan to either reassemble as core .... or go with the seal kit.

[FAKKY]

Looks like Ill need to pull all the seals/spacers out of the top in orderto get gear out ....

[dsraven]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQXEuSGi-x0

[FAKKY]

yup
Found that one last night - thanks dsraven !!

Looks like he bailed on it though ........ due to special toosl beyond that

Undecided on pulling out the seals .... IM curious .... but I also want a good core to get a reman if I likely end up on that route

lol

[FAKKY]

So .... basically popped out with a few persuasion taps .....
Not sure I am learning anything here ..... There looks to be small damage to lowest seal .... but then for it to exit the housing on top I would think the other three seals would seal that off ..... and they look ok.



So could be something deeper ...... or not.
Probably just going to reassamble and reman.

[dsraven]

Buy a kit or drop by a bearing supply shop that may have the sealant and o rings. A few bucks later and you are ready to assemble, after checking for burrs etc. Swap out the o rings and slip the pinion shaft back in. Then replace the input seal etc and try again. It will work or you have a good core, lol. All you lose is a bit of time and a few bucks for seals etc. Whaddya got to lose by trying?

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Buy a kit or drop by a bearing supply shop that may have the sealant and o rings. A few bucks later and you are ready to assemble, after checking for burrs etc. Swap out the o rings and slip the pinion shaft back in. Then replace the input seal etc and try again. It will work or you have a good core, lol. All you lose is a bit of time and a few bucks for seals etc. Whaddya got to lose by trying?

Nothing but time and money as you say

No but seriously ...... I guess I was expecting more obvious damage ..... so makes me think the issue is somewhere else .... like in the rack seals .... or further etc......

[dsraven]

Take a look at the o rings on the shaft. They should be round in cross section. If slightly flat they are hooped. Look at the seals from the shaft to the housing, same, no flat spots. Just swap out the old with some new, assemble, retry. Still leak? Swap with a rebuilt or good used until. Then use it so it doesnt do the same thing.

[FAKKY]

Well ..... good news bad news deal.
I chickened out mostly due to cost and time. Couldnt get anything here locally before tuesday and even then was $25 ..... cheapest was rockauto at $15 but that was up to next friday.

So I bought a reman and bolted her all up.
Good new - No Leaks out of the top seal .....
Bad news --- leaks out of the JIC adapters on ports ..... even though tight.



https://imgur.com/lPs6lFx

Not sure if I should use some teflon dope or not .......

[dsraven]

if it is leaking from the return hose I would say lose the heavy, non conforming, hydraulic style hose and just use some reinforced oil resistant fuel line and some clamps. less stress on the fitting means maybe it doesn't leak. there really is no pressure on the return line. if leaking at the pressure hose then it looks like you either have mismatched fittings or a groove or out of round fitting. again, if the hydraulic line is hard to install because it is heavy and noncorfming then possibly a change in hose type would help. does the line(s) fit up against the fitting on the rack without a bunch of bending or does it need to be held firmly in place while you try to get the threads started?
the hoses you have look good and all, just maybe too much stress on the fittings if they don't line right up well. if tightened too much they may have cut a groove in the taper or may be out of round.

[dsraven]

even if you could find a rack at the wrecker with the hoses still attached and grab the return line that fits in the rack you have, then use fuel line for the return, if that's where it is leaking. less leverage with a shorter fitting so less chance of future leakage from the fitting vibrating and cracking or coming loose in the rack or at the adapter. return lines don't need to be steel braided line. cotton reinforced is all they really need.

[dsraven]

scroll ahead here in this video and you will see what the original lines looked like. waay less of a line for the return side. easy to grab that piece from a wreck and install your own return line and clamp to that fitting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sj-86fU7wwc

[FAKKY]

Was thinking of using some of this ln the pipe thread side going into the rack ports.

https://tinyurl.com/s4xt9db

Its leaking at both but mostly on high pressure side .... but not at the AN/JIC fitting .... at the pipe fitting going into rack.

eg
18mm X 1.5 on the pump side

[dsraven]

I think if you look up the hose by a manufacturer and year you will likely find the original hose had a nut, like a brake line has, but instead of the flare, like a brake line, the tubing part would have had a raised section just a bit back of the end of the tube and this area would have also had an O ring or a teflon washer on it to seal the fitting. putting any kind of goop on the threads is not advised because it can get into the valving on the rack or the power steering pump or maybe even into the hydroboost if it floated through the system somehow.
is this what your adapter fitting looks like? maybe a torn O ring if so?

https://www.amazon.ca/Allstar-ALL482.../dp/B006K8M1Y4

[dsraven]

I think the thread sealer would be a waste of cash because it would be the O ring leaking, not the threads. the fluid getting past the threads would be because the O ring is leaking.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I think if you look up the hose by a manufacturer and year you will likely find the original hose had a nut, like a brake line has, but instead of the flare, like a brake line, the tubing part would have had a raised section just a bit back of the end of the tube and this area would have also had an O ring or a teflon washer on it to seal the fitting. putting any kind of goop on the threads is not advised because it can get into the valving on the rack or the power steering pump or maybe even into the hydroboost if it floated through the system somehow.
is this what your adapter fitting looks like? maybe a torn O ring if so?

https://www.amazon.ca/Allstar-ALL482.../dp/B006K8M1Y4

Pretty much.
Its a russell fitting. An 18mm and a 16mm version.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I think the thread sealer would be a waste of cash because it would be the O ring leaking, not the threads. the fluid getting past the threads would be because the O ring is leaking.

I'll pull the fittings tomorrow and have a look at the orings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ENE_gW4ysg

0.29 of video seconds says this is used in hydraulic systems to prevent leaks

[dsraven]

yeah, good idea. before you undo the fitting maybe check to see if it is bottomed out on the hex part where the wrench goes. if so maybe the bore in the rack is deeper than the fitting so the oring doesn't stand a chance of sealing. just a thought. some of the p/s fittings I have seen have a teflon o ring which stands up better than the black rubber ones.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

yeah, good idea. before you undo the fitting maybe check to see if it is bottomed out on the hex part where the wrench goes. if so maybe the bore in the rack is deeper than the fitting so the oring doesn't stand a chance of sealing. just a thought. some of the p/s fittings I have seen have a teflon o ring which stands up better than the black rubber ones.

Well ..... if I had to guess I would say the hex was bottomed and maybe the seal wasnt fully seated (depth). Hard to be sure.

In the end i threw on a 2nd oring and used the thread sealant here (says hydraulic)

http://shorturl.at/boLOP

No more leaks ...... and can turn the wheels on the ground easily with single hand.

Will monitor and update.

thanks for help/ideas dsraven

[mr48chev]

I've bought a couple of rebuilt racks from Detroit Axle off Ebay although I think you can find them on their own website https://www.detroitaxle.com/ One was for the 2K deville that I had and I was very happy with what they sell. My old one was broken and had no core value so I can't say on core returns.

[dsraven]

good to hear you have it fixed.it can get pretty aggravating when you install new parts and they fail. it's like, where do I start?
glad to hear some of my input helped you figure it out.
yesterday I spent all day sanding, sandblasting, sanding some more and finally spraying some epoxy on my tailgate. I mixed up the perfect amount of epoxy for a change and sprayed it in the open doorway of my garage to keep fumes to a minimum. when finished I turned around to return to the workbench and a gust of wind came up which blew the tailgate off the stands and it fell on the floor, right on the freshly primered front side of the gate. grrr. oh well. sand it off, fix the dings and carry on. I will make a better stand this time, lol. it just goes to show, you do your best and get set back by some dumb little thing.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

good to hear you have it fixed.it can get pretty aggravating when you install new parts and they fail. it's like, where do I start?
glad to hear some of my input helped you figure it out.
yesterday I spent all day sanding, sandblasting, sanding some more and finally spraying some epoxy on my tailgate. I mixed up the perfect amount of epoxy for a change and sprayed it in the open doorway of my garage to keep fumes to a minimum. when finished I turned around to return to the workbench and a gust of wind came up which blew the tailgate off the stands and it fell on the floor, right on the freshly primered front side of the gate. grrr. oh well. sand it off, fix the dings and carry on. I will make a better stand this time, lol. it just goes to show, you do your best and get set back by some dumb little thing.

lol - right.
I have learned so much (1st build of any kind) from guys like you ..... but still so much more to learn.
Actually looking forward to do it again ....... so I do all the things i would've done had I known ....... but for now juts focusing on getting teh truck done and safely driveable.

Onto wiring the electric emergnecy brake and then exhaust and then driveshaft ...... then should be road worthy ...... after that cosmetics and impreovements (door latches maybe etc).

[dsraven]

if you find it leaks in the future, and feel the fitting was bottomed before the oring seated, you may want to try a back up ring (sometimes called anti-extrusion rings) on the fitting BEFORE you install the o ring and possibly one on both sides of the O ring. that would be better than a double stacked O ring and would do basically the same thing. a double stacked set up may fail but O rings are made to be used with a back up ring. some of the back up rings are shaped convex to hold the shape of the O ring better. here are some links that explain it better. I have seen fittings with steel back up rings, like a washer, and I have seen them with plastic or teflon back up rings.
anyway, just a thought.

https://www.barnwell.co.uk/what-are-back-up-rings/

https://tarkka.co/2019/03/24/o-rings...-o-ring-seals/

https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...x&cPath=367_14