5.3 swap now. Built for boost later?

[Mbeef61]

I have tried to search the webs for topics but it’s hard to narrow down.

I am preparing my 5.3 swap now. Working on a mild rebuild and cam/springs/lifters etc. I planned on gapping the rings and doing head studs and other upgrades (ls9 gaskets) in preparation for boost later.

I feel like with parts for the rebuild, trans, and other swap parts to get it all in, I can’t afford boost now. But I would like it to be an option later with minimal effort and not having to pull the motor again later to break into it and add things.

I know there is always an expense to doing things twice. But I would like to build it for an easy add on of boost later.

What would be easier to add later? Turbo or SC?

I know with turbo I would need:
Oil line ( which I could tap now)
Manifolds
Tubing

Supercharger I would need
Different pulley?
Tubing

Seems like supercharger would be easier to add later? Seems like supercharger would be easier to add later but maybe I’m missing something.

Anyone else do this and have any pointers?

[LS short box]

Since you are pulling the pistons out I would put in forged replacements. Not that expensive. And maybe forged rods? Also drill and tap the oil pan for turbo or SC oil return line before you put it back together.
With a turbo or SC you won't need a big cam. Might find a nice used one on LS1tech.
Per the local turbo guys the 5.3 is the best for boost because it has the thickest cylinder walls.

[Mbeef61]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Since you are pulling the pistons out I would put in forged replacements. Not that expensive. And maybe forged rods? Also drill and tap the oil pan for turbo or SC oil return line before you put it back together.
With a turbo or SC you won't need a big cam. Might find a nice used one on LS1tech.
Per the local turbo guys the 5.3 is the best for boost because it has the thickest cylinder walls.

I have thought about the pistons and rods, still torn. This was supposed to be “budget” but I hate doing things twice if I don’t have to. Willing to spend some on assurances.

Don’t superchargers have self contained oil systems? Meaning they use their own? I was just going to do BTR stage 1 turbo cam. Keeps the torque up but frees up some power from the tiny stock cam.

I guess I just need to do some pricing. I plan on doing the swap and adding boost later. Trying to make a list of things to do to make adding it later easier. Seems like less parts to add supercharger than turbo on a running build.

[jrusher]

What are your hp goals? The later 2006 and up rods are good for quite abit of boost. I did what your planning to do and I blew my budget by at least 50% on my engine build and then about the same when I added a turbo . Just like when doing a ls swap or engine/turbo all the little things add up fast . Fuel system, injectors, exhaust , driveshaft etc

A few things that I should off done on my original engine build/ls swap
- Go bigger on the fuel pump you will need it . A good 10 micron fuel filter. I .originally went with a 255 walbro and a vette filter/regulator . Had to swap it with a 450 walbro and a good filter and 1:1 boost referenced regulator
- Exhaust system I waisted a lot on my dual 3” mandrel bent system now I’ve changed that up got rid of the h pipe . As I’m single 3” now back to my dual mufflers .
-I had to change my engine mounts to a square body clam shell mount to clear my log manifold
- lots of good cams out there for boost , springs , push rods , lifters and rocker trunnion upgrades are the norm for any engine build
- like short box said drill and tap your oil pan for oil return line . I was lucky my engine sat up high enough to pull pan
- if your running a gm pcm pin a 5 volt wire for your wide band most use the ac volatge pin so wide band will log on the stock ecu
- oil catch can lots of options out there from cheap non baffled cans to nice high end stuff you get what you pay for always

[jrusher]

What are your hp goals? The later 2006 and up rods are good for quite abit of boost. I did what your planning to do and I blew my budget by at least 50% on my engine build and then about the same when I added a turbo . Just like when doing a ls swap or engine/turbo all the little things add up fast . Fuel system, injectors, exhaust , driveshaft etc

A few things that I should off done on my original engine build/ls swap
- Go bigger on the fuel pump you will need it . A good 10 micron fuel filter .
- Exhaust system I waisted a lot on my dual 3” mandrel bent system now I’ve changed that up got rid of the h pipe . As I’m single 3” now back to my dual mufflers .
-I had to change my engine mounts to a square body clam shell mount to clear my log manifold
- lots of good cams out there for boost , springs , push rods , lifters and rocker trunnion upgrades are the norm for any engine build
- like short box said drill and tap your oil pan for oil return line . I was lucky my engine sat up high enough to pull pan
- if your running a gm pcm pin a 5 volt wire for your wide band most use the ac volatge pin so wide band will log on the stock ecu
- oil catch can lots of options out there from cheap non baffled cans to nice high end stuff you get what you pay for always
- stall converter depending on cam . I had to swap mine out for a 3200 stall
- rear end gearing I threw in 3:73 and a posi last summer now thinking I should of went with taller gearing for boost
- build your tranny up

[Ford Assassin]

Stock pistons are fine for most street builds, even some drag builds. A conservative tune with decent fuel, like e85 go a long way. Gen 3 rods are more of a weak link vs pistons. Gen IV rods came out with the LS2 in year model 2005, later 2004 castings have the better rods too. Easy way to tell is if the M11 head bolts are all the same length, if so, you have Gen IV rods. 2 different length M11 head bolts = Gen 3 rods.

[Mbeef61]

Originally Posted by jrusher

What are your hp goals? The later 2006 and up rods are good for quite abit of boost. I did what your planning to do and I blew my budget by at least 50% on my engine build and then about the same when I added a turbo . Just like when doing a ls swap or engine/turbo all the little things add up fast . Fuel system, injectors, exhaust , driveshaft etc

A few things that I should off done on my original engine build/ls swap
- Go bigger on the fuel pump you will need it . A good 10 micron fuel filter .
- Exhaust system I waisted a lot on my dual 3” mandrel bent system now I’ve changed that up got rid of the h pipe . As I’m single 3” now back to my dual mufflers .
-I had to change my engine mounts to a square body clam shell mount to clear my log manifold
- lots of good cams out there for boost , springs , push rods , lifters and rocker trunnion upgrades are the norm for any engine build
- like short box said drill and tap your oil pan for oil return line . I was lucky my engine sat up high enough to pull pan
- if your running a gm pcm pin a 5 volt wire for your wide band most use the ac volatge pin so wide band will log on the stock ecu
- oil catch can lots of options out there from cheap non baffled cans to nice high end stuff you get what you pay for always
- stall converter depending on cam . I had to swap mine out for a 3200 stall
- rear end gearing I threw in 3:73 and a posi last summer now thinking I should of went with taller gearing for boost
- build your tranny up

Thanks for the Info!

Horsepower looking eventually 650-750. I do have the gen 4 rods and floating pistons. It’s a 2005 avalanche 5.3. It’s kind of a mix of gen 3 and 4. It’s gen 3 block with rear cam sensor and 24x reluctor but gen 4 rods and pistons. I’m not on a super tight budget but I want to get it up and running and I’ll do the boost later.

Planning on gapping the rings. Hopefully there isn’t too much blowup with no boost. Thinking .028 gap.
Planning on BTR stage 1 turbo cam with springs.
Holley terminator x ecu
Maybe ls7 lifters, are new ones needed??

What did you use for a pan?

Probably catch can and 4 corner steam vent.

Still considering trans. I know it needs built up. I always liked t56 magnum but thinking auto now.

[Mbeef61]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

Stock pistons are fine for most street builds, even some drag builds. A conservative tune with decent fuel, like e85 go a long way. Gen 3 rods are more of a weak link vs pistons. Gen IV rods came out with the LS2 in year model 2005, later 2004 castings have the better rods too. Easy way to tell is if the M11 head bolts are all the same length, if so, you have Gen IV rods. 2 different length M11 head bolts = Gen 3 rods.

Luckily I have the gen 4 rods and pistons. I looked into e85 but I can’t seem to find it locally unfortunately

[Ford Assassin]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

I looked into e85 but I can’t seem to find it locally unfortunately

Not gonna be easy to reach your goals without race gas and/or dual nozzle methanol injection. Pump gas will only get you so far.

[LS short box]

I don't run E85 but a car buddy of mine runs a LS turbo drag car. They started out with E85 but as they got the car up and running and tuned they found out hard way E85 out the pump can vary widely in regards to the amount of ethanol and so the octane rating. After they cracked a cylinder they purchased a device to measure the amount of ethanol in the so called E85. It varied widely from gas station to gas station. They run noting but race gas now.

[Ford Assassin]

Originally Posted by LS short box

I don't run E85 but a car buddy of mine runs a LS turbo drag car. They started out with E85 but as they got the car up and running and tuned they found out hard way E85 out the pump can vary widely in regards to the amount of ethanol and so the octane rating. After they cracked a cylinder they purchased a device to measure the amount of ethanol in the so called E85. It varied widely from gas station to gas station. They run noting but race gas now.

That's why I always test the fuel, they cost $15, plus installing a ethanol sensor is a wise $100 investment when using the stock GM PCM. If they cracked anything, someone wasn't watching AFR's.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/253824998647

[71cadc10]

I believe a supercharger kit would be easiest to add at later point, due to most of these kits are 'complete' nowadays with no fab needed. Whether centrifugal or roots/tvs.

I'd oversize the fuel system now up front, including injectors. That way it's all there when you will need it.
if you are truly shooting for 700hp I would do the forged piston now.
LS9 head gaskets and ARP bolts should be fine...you can re-assign some of the money from head studs elsewhere.

for fuel, you could look at putting a dual pump system in the tank, and only use the one pump for now natural aspirated. Then wire up pump #2 on a hobbs switch once you have boost. look at 80# injectors which should do 700 on pump fuel.
at that power level I'd prefer a stable return type fuel system, so put a regulator w/ return in there now and you can boost reference it then when the time comes (add # fuel pressure per # of boost)