Project 83 Big Brown Turd C30 Static Drop

[EricU]

Chapter 1 – Why to stay off of eBay while drinking….

I have no idea why I ended up in such a hurry to buy a one ton dually crew cab, considering that I have a 63 Suburban project that I haven’t really started and an old Caddy drop top that isn’t anywhere close to completed (but drives nice with the L99/6L80E swap)

I guess that we can use this as a teachable moment. "Kids! Stay off of eBay and don’t buy something that you don’t see in person”

After a bunch of late night internet searches, I ended up with this big brown turd of a truck. The truck is:
1983 C30 Crew Cab Dually running a 454 and a SM465 trany that makes the truck run out of gear around 45 mph. Should get pretty decent gas mileage????

Condition of the truck (A to F)?
Body: D, typical old work truck dings, twisted, bent, screwed up bed - I need to find out why the bed is so "wonky" (engineering term not to be thrown around) - There's not a body panel on this pig that doesn't have some ding or dent in it. It looks like someone tried to blend the paint on the front passenger's side door ("tried" being the main word in that sentence)
Interior: D-, WTF did I buy?
Engine: B, The 454 runs like a champ
But man does this thing need an NV4500 5-speed

Plans for the truck: as much Lowboy Motorsports Static Drop as Todd’s kit will produce using new spindles & springs up front along with a rear little C-Notch and flip kit in the rear. The flip kit will bolt up a SRW rear end to allow the 22” Alcoas to tuck under the rear fenders using the 8x10 adapters. And of course I have to have the bullet style lug nut covers.

Parts on order are a bed front panel and 4" wider inner wheel wells from AMD along with a BUNCH of bolts from LMC. Did I mention that I have six new rubber body mounts on order?

I have a bunch of interior parts ordered from USA1 but am waiting to hear from them regarding the way too expensive shipping cost.

First thing to do is to get that bent up bed off of the truck to see the frame condition and get ready for the rear C-Notch.

[EricU]

So, just how do you remove an 8’ fleetside bed by yourself?

Step 1 is to have your warehouse guy show up at your house early on a Saturday, start unbolting and disconnecting all the little stuff like the wiring, fuel fillers along with the 8 bed to frame bolts. I go back into the house and get another cup of coffee and try to tell myself "Sure! This is a good idea to fix up this almost four decade old POS"

Step 2 is to grab some 2x4s and a 4x4 that you have laying around and jerry-rig (can I say that?) a lift system to grab the bed rails.

Step 3 is to grab you forklift that has a set of 8’ forks and throw a strap over the forks and around the 4x4. Works great.

Step 5, set that bed on some crappy old wood sawhorses that you built some thirty plus years ago.

[EricU]

Not only is this big brown turd almost forty years old (yet way younger than myself) it has been:
a) Actually used as a truck
b) Set out in the sun to dry everything on it
c) Subjected to a less than stellar stereo installation tech - I really hope that whoever did this is either in jail or very hung over.
Yes, to mount the "Powerzone" amp that was apparently purchased at a swap meet, they just drilled self-tappers through the back wall of the cab. Nice! Very Effing NICE!

BTW, anyone out there want to purchase a truly custom "Powerzone" 400 watt max (surrrrrrre) amp? I also have a custom sub enclosure that would be a wonderful early X-mas present for the little lady in your life....

[EricU]

Side question:

Since I don't have a shop manual (yes I need one)

What is this thing in the rear brake line and can it be removed prior to the rear axle flip?

Is it some kind of load sensing brake proportioning valve?

[tinydb84]

I don't know what that valve is but I'm commenting just to see what it is when someone answers lol.

Nice truck!

[LT7A]

I see no turd. I see some neglect, some bad choices (haha), and some willful disobedience. But I see a great truck. It could be much, much worse. Cleaned, lowered, and a little rattle can of the correct paint code on the P side and you're rollin!

Then you've got something cool to drive while you're putting time in on those other rigs. Suburban looks cool and I like the stone work around your place. Full speed ahead bro!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by EricU

Side question:

Since I don't have a shop manual (yes I need one)

What is this thing in the rear brake line and can it be removed prior to the rear axle flip?

Is it some kind of load sensing brake proportioning valve?

Rear brake bias valve. It's supposed to allow pressure changes to the rear brakes when there's a load on the rear of the truck. What I guessed when I removed mine, was as the suspension squats, the arm on the valve changes its angle which alters flow to the rear drums changing the F-to-R bias.

[EricU]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Rear brake bias valve. It's supposed to allow pressure changes to the rear brakes when there's a load on the rear of the truck...

Thanks, that is what I thought it was.

I think that I am going to ditch it, my little 8,000 lb boat shouldn't bother the truck that much...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by EricU

Thanks, that is what I thought it was.

I think that I am going to ditch it, my little 8,000 lb boat shouldn't bother the truck that much...

Mine has worked fine w/it removed but the heaviest loads I've had to worry about is one of my 1/2 tons on the trailer.

[EricU]

Ordered a set of AMD 4" wider inner fenders from Summit.

UPS sure didn't do me any favors, the box was crushed and one of the fenders showed up dented.

I am not sure what to do, it is a pretty decent crease that I could hammer/dolly/shrink out but that isn't what I paid for.

[SCOTI]

They're definitely not packed very well & I don't understand the logic (I got the 67-72's version). I guess more people just roll w/it vs going through the hassle of returning & then waiting for replacements....

[EricU]

Well after thumbing through catalogs and looking online for a 14B SRW rear end and trying to find a Suburban in California to rob parts, I found this baby and am bringing it home tomorrow.

It's a 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban with a (supposedly) "newer" crate 350.

The dash pad is shot but it does have PW/PL and the door panels are in much better shape.

The sheet metal seems to actually be pretty straight and my passenger's side is pretty messed up. So after I get the new pig in the family home I may have some questions such as "How do I swap doors?" or "What is wrong with me?"

I still am looking for a front seat frame as the Burbs have buckets and I want my lady squeezed up next to me, so no buckets in the BBT (Big Brown Turd)

Looks like my pressure washer is going to get a good workout.

[SCOTI]

Nice & will makes things mush easier. Doors should be straight forward swap. Just need to pull the wiring from the burb where it feeds through the posts & feeds to the doors. Pull everything all the way back to the fuse panel.

Pluck parts that you can use & part out the remainder. If your doors are in repairable shape, keep the rears. It's easy enough to find front doors but a little harder to find rears. A set of spares never hurts. Sell off the front clip, buckets/mounting brackets/console, F/R bumpers, motor/trans/transfer case.... Recoup on the investment.

[EricU]

Struck a deal yesterday (Great guy!) Brought this pig home today and got out my little pressure washer to start getting the years of dirt and grime off of it.

Started eyeballing stuff and making a mental plan for now, which includes:

A. Throw a battery in it and start testing the PW/PLs
B. Yanking the PW/PL wiring harness out
C. Checking to see if the PW/PL work
D. Possibly swap all four doors over to the C3 which will require both;
a. Learning how to R&R a door along with alignment
b. Prepping the doors for paint
E. Pulling all four door interior panels out, clean, putty, paint and add some plaid fabric to match the seat inserts that I will be making.
F. Yanking out the dashpad, filling the cracks and recovering in some dark brown vinyl
G. Pulling the 14B SRW rear end out and installing it in the C30 to tuck the 22” Alcoas
H. Possibly pull the whole front clip off and swap over to the C30 as this one has many less dents.
I. Pull the small block out, test, clean it up and use it for my 63 Suburban build
J. Transfer the overhead console to the C30
K. Figure out what I want, sell off what I can and haul away whatever is left.

[EricU]

And yes I will be asking questions on how to remove, align and install doors.

I can paint and If I do swap doors, I will get them into primer first.

[EricU]

Does the SPI sheet tell me what the rear end gear ratio should be?

[Just call me Sean]

GT5- 4.10
G80- limited slip

[EricU]

Originally Posted by Just call me Sean

GT5- 4.10
G80- limited slip

Thank you sir. I was hoping that it would be a 3.7. I don't know what gear ratio is in the C30 now but it sure runs out of gear fast.

[EricU]

Still collecting parts:

Got my front springs, drop spindles. My C-notch & Flip kit should be here tomorrow.

Got most of my front end parts sitting on the desk, tie rod ends, ball joints, pitman arm etc.

Ordered some new front disks from Rock Auto

Still waiting on my 22" Alcoas and 8x10 adapters.

And I picked up this...

[EricU]

Its a 14b SRW 67" wide rear end with (3.42 gearing so I can road race?)

The ring and pinion gears are in fantastic shape.

I also picked up a front bench seat to replace my broken seat bottom. Thanks to the help and information from forum members TKCR and SCOTI!

[EricU]

Spindles showed up in a pretty trashed box.

Pulled them out and one of them has a pretty good ding in it, I think that is where the grease seal is supposed to sit...

[SCOTI]

Inner bearing backs up against that. Seal goes next step up.

[EricU]

The SRW is going to get new brakes and lines, remove the current brackets, a little cleaning and paint before the install.

[Corts60]

Awesome start to a cool build.

Member Hatzie has uploaded a bunch of service manuals that should help you out!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ghlight=manual

[Low Elco]

Welp, this oughta be good!