12-28-2020, 11:10 PM | #26 |
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Re: radiator selection
You mentioned that you were working with a 67 Suburban. Isn't that sitting on the same chassis as a pickup? Is the crossmember arranged different on the 67-72 trucks, compared to the squarebody's? A squarebody is all I've had experience with.
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1987 C6P V20 truck, 2010 LMG 5.3, AFM delete, 2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds, 1997 nv4500, 1991 np241c, hydroboost, 2005 14bff axle & driveshaft, drop-n-lock gooseneck, 4.10 gears, stock suspension, rims, and tires. Still a work in progress. Any questions or suggestions are welcome! |
12-28-2020, 11:36 PM | #27 |
Post Whore
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Re: radiator selection
Kipps... the IH was way off...not even close to center...the C30 wasnt as bad but it didnt line up in the factory shroud..
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Mongo...aka Greg RIP Dad RIP Jesse 1981 C30 LQ9 NV4500..http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753598 Mongos AD- LS3 TR6060...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...34#post8522334 Columbus..the 1957 IH 4x4...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...63#post8082563 2023 Chevy Z71..daily driver |
12-29-2020, 05:05 AM | #28 |
low n' slo
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Re: radiator selection
isnt the cross member riveted in? either way, it seems like a tight squeeze to get that cross member out and drill new holes under there with the body on
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67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____|__|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,|_O _______ O_] |
12-29-2020, 06:06 AM | #29 |
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Re: radiator selection
Manual transmission crossmembers are riveted in, automatics are bolted in. Drilling new holes isn't that hard on the bottom of the frame, but the top ones can be tough. A lot of people don't bother bolting it at the top though.
If you have a manual transmission crossmember you will have to remove it.
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My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html 5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10 http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html |
12-29-2020, 09:22 AM | #30 |
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Re: radiator selection
I pulled and reinstalled two transmissions on these classic trucks. Both were manual. A 1987 chevy 4wd, and a 1981 Ford 2wd. The chevy was missing the extra brace pieces that went to the top flange on the frame rail. I didn't worry about it. The Ford had those braces, but I don't remember if I bothered to reinstall them or not.
Just drill new holes in the bottom frame flange, and call it good. It's not worth the trouble attaching it to the top flange, in my opinion. As far as rivets vs bolts, it'd be REALLY unhandy to do a clutch job without removing the crossmember. Probably impossible on some transmissions. If there's rivets there, cut them off, and replace with bolts.
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1987 C6P V20 truck, 2010 LMG 5.3, AFM delete, 2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds, 1997 nv4500, 1991 np241c, hydroboost, 2005 14bff axle & driveshaft, drop-n-lock gooseneck, 4.10 gears, stock suspension, rims, and tires. Still a work in progress. Any questions or suggestions are welcome! |
12-29-2020, 10:00 AM | #31 |
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Re: radiator selection
I should have been more specific, the crossmembers are riveted in on manual transmission equipped Chevy and GMC trucks from 67-72. I suspect they stopped doing that in 1973 when the body style changed.
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My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html 5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10 http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html |
12-29-2020, 10:07 AM | #32 |
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Re: radiator selection
Makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.
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1987 C6P V20 truck, 2010 LMG 5.3, AFM delete, 2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds, 1997 nv4500, 1991 np241c, hydroboost, 2005 14bff axle & driveshaft, drop-n-lock gooseneck, 4.10 gears, stock suspension, rims, and tires. Still a work in progress. Any questions or suggestions are welcome! |
12-29-2020, 10:53 AM | #33 |
low n' slo
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: rosenberg, texas
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Re: radiator selection
ah ok good info. i didnt even pay attention while i was under there. guess its coming out then
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67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____|__|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,|_O _______ O_] |
12-29-2020, 11:14 AM | #34 |
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Re: radiator selection
Your truck is an automatic, right? If so, you can use the crossmember you have, just slide it back and drill new holes to bolt it back in.
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My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html 5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10 http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html |
12-29-2020, 04:09 PM | #35 |
low n' slo
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Re: radiator selection
yup it is auto. ill pull it out to paint it. i dont know why i thought these were riveted in
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67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____|__|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,|_O _______ O_] |
01-22-2021, 11:20 AM | #36 |
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Re: radiator selection
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=611
Been running that setup for almost 4 years now, and it has worked very well. Currently installing a Vintage Air system and finally painting the front clip. |
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