02-13-2021, 04:20 PM | #26 |
Mr. Cheyenne
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Kyle, Texas
Posts: 1,687
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Re: Starter & Shims
I saw that one too, I given some thought to get some paint that would work for that. While I have my starter, I am going to let the temp warm up a bit before tackling getting it installed. Been freezing as it is just installing my new and shinny distributor ;-)
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Richard '72 Chevy C10 Cheyenne *Super WHT/MED BRONZE/WHT SBC 350 | TH350 | LWB | AC | Buddy Seats Upgrades: Tilt | Front Sway Bar | Radio | Sliding Window | Bed Spare w/Lock Bed Rails | Full LEDs | Courtesy Lights | Tachometer | Glovebox Lock & Light | Head Light Relays | *Upgraded Fully Super Trim |
02-13-2021, 05:31 PM | #27 | |
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Re: Starter & Shims
Quote:
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02-22-2021, 04:21 PM | #28 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Tamassee,SC
Posts: 10
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Re: Starter & Shims
I had a similar problem and mine turned out to be a flex plate bolt loose,nothing wrong with my starter,just another possibility.
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02-23-2021, 09:51 AM | #29 |
Mr. Cheyenne
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Kyle, Texas
Posts: 1,687
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Re: Starter & Shims
thanks - no movement in the flex plate and I do not see it wobbling when watching it spin with the cover off. Thanks for your suggestion!
I did get my new ACDELCO starter in from RockAuto installed this past weekend. Don't think it sounds a bit different and seems to be lining up just as well as the old one. Though when I took the old one off the main battery power stud was all lose/wobbly. It also was a ACDELCO starter.
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Richard '72 Chevy C10 Cheyenne *Super WHT/MED BRONZE/WHT SBC 350 | TH350 | LWB | AC | Buddy Seats Upgrades: Tilt | Front Sway Bar | Radio | Sliding Window | Bed Spare w/Lock Bed Rails | Full LEDs | Courtesy Lights | Tachometer | Glovebox Lock & Light | Head Light Relays | *Upgraded Fully Super Trim |
02-23-2021, 11:15 AM | #30 |
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: washington
Posts: 2,321
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Re: Starter & Shims
It's not the name on the starter that matters. Watch for the Delco and GM part numbers on the aluminum nose piece. Factory ones come with part numbers on them. If yours is a generic replacement it will not have any marks or identification of any kind. I avoid them like the plague. And their solution "Shimming the starter" is a lame work around that caused other issues. If you want to put this issue to bed find out the part number that came factory on the starter and find on and install it. 99% of the time this fixes the issue. The original nose cone is like gold to me. When I purchase a replacement starter I swap out the noise cone. Don't forget to install the stabilizing strap on the brush end of the starter. 90% of the time they are missing. Reinstall it, GM didn't spend a nickel on anything if it wasn't required.
This is a problem manufactured by the re-builders as they wanted to reduce the number of interchangeable starters to reduce inventory. Now the Manufactures, like Honda, change the starter design every 6 months or so just to make it impossible to stock enough spares and hoping you will purchase from the manufacture. It's all a game designed to make the consumer pay. Bottom line is, if you want it quite, it's possible, but it will take some work on you part. Last edited by Accelo; 02-23-2021 at 11:33 AM. |
02-24-2021, 04:58 PM | #31 |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Simi, CA
Posts: 495
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Re: Starter & Shims
After killing about four autozone starters in a period of two month, which they happily exchanged to my surprise, I finally discovered many SBCs needs to be aligned with shims. I found instructions on this site similar to the method in the youtube picture you posted. I use a medium paper clip inserted between the crest of the starter drive tooth and the valley of the fly wheel teeth.
Sounded much better for about a month until the grinding returned. I was using grade 8 bolts thinking they were the strongest and best option. Once again after searching this site I found out that GM starter bolts had some sort of knurling that aids with and helps keep proper alignment. Five years later and it still cranks smooth as butter. I have the part number at home, will add it later.
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02-24-2021, 05:16 PM | #32 |
Mr. Cheyenne
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Kyle, Texas
Posts: 1,687
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Re: Starter & Shims
interesting, I would like to see that part number. After a bit of a search it seems like "ARP" bolts are the ones to get but there are a quite a few different part numbers to chose from.
You'd think as much as I had the bolts loose/out I'd remember if they had "knurling" or not... I know there are no washers on them (ARPs shows they come with washers).
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Richard '72 Chevy C10 Cheyenne *Super WHT/MED BRONZE/WHT SBC 350 | TH350 | LWB | AC | Buddy Seats Upgrades: Tilt | Front Sway Bar | Radio | Sliding Window | Bed Spare w/Lock Bed Rails | Full LEDs | Courtesy Lights | Tachometer | Glovebox Lock & Light | Head Light Relays | *Upgraded Fully Super Trim |
02-24-2021, 10:37 PM | #33 |
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The bolts I used are GM part 12338064. My block is GM crate motor but as far as I know that doesn’t matter. Length of the starter bolts is 4.25” under head to end. If you look closely at the picture not only is it knurled but the shaft is actually a bit thicker than the threads and the threads have a slight taper.
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02-25-2021, 05:57 PM | #34 |
Mr. Cheyenne
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Kyle, Texas
Posts: 1,687
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Re: Starter & Shims
I'll give those a try. There are so many different bolts out there - so I am going with yours LOL
I image even if I do have knurled they are bound to be worn after all these years!
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Richard '72 Chevy C10 Cheyenne *Super WHT/MED BRONZE/WHT SBC 350 | TH350 | LWB | AC | Buddy Seats Upgrades: Tilt | Front Sway Bar | Radio | Sliding Window | Bed Spare w/Lock Bed Rails | Full LEDs | Courtesy Lights | Tachometer | Glovebox Lock & Light | Head Light Relays | *Upgraded Fully Super Trim |
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