Next steps for the 63?

[Asshat]

Been thinking about what to do next with the truck. There’s two areas that need work, the engine/trans & the rear axle. I already have disc brakes and power steering in front.

Rear axle - currently 8 lug, 14 bolt, 4:10 gears

Option 1
Convert to disc brakes & change gearing to 3:42

Option 2
Replace entire rear end with one that has disc brakes and taller gear, if I can find one that is 8 lug and 3:42 gears.



Drivetrain - currently 6 cyl 292, 5 speed T5

Option 1
4bbl intake, Rochester carb; Cam; Exhaust header

Option 2
V8 + convert to automatic, column shift

Option 3
V6 305E & keep 5 speed

What do you guys think, am I out of my mind?
I like the idea of a good sounding V8, and I know it’s going to cost a bunch. I am just not happy with the straight 6, it’s such a pig, and it sounds like a mail truck.
As far as the rear end, I could convert to disc brakes and get a taller gear but it will cost about $1000. Probably cheaper to buy a rear axle from another vehicle.

[LostMy65]

Is it a 14-bolt floater or semi-floater?
Have you ran an rpm calculator to see what going with a 3:42 will give you for rpm's?

[cwcarpenter98]

My opinion would be to rebuild the 292 with some good parts and a 4 barrel since you already have that engine in the truck.

A small block would be a good choice even with the T5. You could still keep your 4:10s too.

If you decide to go small block, you'll need the 230, 250, and small block frame stand. The 292 sits farther forward on the frame on the passenger side only. Driver's side is the same. I've got an extra set, so I'd trade my passenger side for yours if that's what you end up deciding. I'm not sure if the 305 v6 frame stands are different

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Is it a 14-bolt floater or semi-floater?
Have you ran an rpm calculator to see what going with a 3:42 will give you for rpm's?

It’s a semi float, that’s why I’m limited to 3:42.

No, I didn’t run the calculator, however, at 70mph it is really wound up.

[sirJim]

Or you could just add a "hair Dryer". https://www.powernationtv.com/episod...ight-six-turbo

[AcampoDave]

I would change the rear axle while making my transmission choice first. Having the right gears for your driving style would go a long way to improving the driving experience. Then, no matter what engine you go with you'll already have the gearing done. I wouldn't worry about rear disc either. I think those big ol' 3/4 ton drums would be more than sufficient.
In my own experience, a rear end change and a tranny change really took things to the next level. I spent a good deal of time online researching the available gear spreads of the tranny I wanted and used available calculators to figure the starting line (also called "launch") ratio of the first gear as it changed with various rear axle combos.

A quick version without figuring tire diameter into the equation is....1st gear ratio multiplied by rear end gear. For example, my truck has a 2.98 first gear and a 3.08 rear which gives me a starting line ratio of 9.17. As the SLR gets lower the engine needs to grunt harder to launch. Getting the SLR Into the 8's requires a bit more clutch slip (or engine torque) and getting into the 10's becomes more of quick wind up and a shift after a short distance.
Automatic trannys are a bit more flexible due to the torque converter and the gearing for those are all available online too.

As a rear end becomes numerically higher, the individual gear ratios in a tranny can be closer together whereas a numerically low rear end works better with a wider spread because you need to "stretch" things out a bit longer going from a stop to full speed since the tranny is starting from a lower (numerically higher) first gear. Final drive rpm calculators are all over the internet and overdrive would require one more calculation to come up with the final drive rpm after the reduction from 1to1 but I am not up to speed on that since my tranny is a non OD.

Nailing this can make any well tuned engine fun to drive.

[Steeveedee]

Nothing is going to remove the "mail truck" sound, but I have to ask, just how much of a pig is it? Because a 283 is less cubic inches and a lot less low-end torque than a 292. That thing should pull like a locomotive, but it won't wind out, for sure. What do you expect from it, as an end product? Highway speed? Hauling stuff? It's important to consider. I'd personally roll it like it is, but all I'd be doing is hauling stuff from Lowes, etc., and not for too long a distance. NB- I have a fat motor truck with an automatic and all kinds of amenities, so maybe my "advice" should be taken with a grain of salt. It ain't the "Farm Truck", but I do have fun getting hole shots on ricers with four-inch fart cans. Though I actually would like a truck to be used as a truck so that I can finish the inside of the '70 for short-term camping. The new linoleum I laid in is already torn from hauling rocks and other construction hardscape materials.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Nothing is going to remove the "mail truck" sound, but I have to ask, just how much of a pig is it? Because a 283 is less cubic inches and a lot less low-end torque than a 292. That thing should pull like a locomotive, but it won't wind out, for sure. What do you expect from it, as an end product? Highway speed? Hauling stuff? It's important to consider. I'd personally roll it like it is, but all I'd be doing is hauling stuff from Lowes, etc., and not for too long a distance. NB- I have a fat motor truck with an automatic and all kinds of amenities, so maybe my "advice" should be taken with a grain of salt. It ain't the "Farm Truck", but I do have fun getting hole shots on ricers with four-inch fart cans. Though I actually would like a truck to be used as a truck so that I can finish the inside of the '70 for short-term camping. The new linoleum I laid in is already torn from hauling rocks and other construction hardscape materials.

OK, so I am cruising along about 55, in 5th gear (keep in mind I have a 4:10 rear), and I come to an inlcine, not super steep. It just starts to slow, then I downshift to 4th, so I'm going slower, and the rpm goes up a bit, but it starts to slow again. This is not a very steep hill, it' not like I'm out in the mountains. I give it more gas, but it just starts to slow again, like there's no power. It takes off from a stop light ok, but any incline, it struggles.
I don't know, it just dries lie a pig, no guts at all. I played with the timing a bit, But doesn't make much difference. Compression check was good.

It has a one barrel carb and a 1-1/2" exhaust. Could it be it needs a bigger carb with a more free flowing exhaust?

[Steeveedee]

I remember that you did some work on the head. Did you check cam lift against the spec, before? That I don't remember. But I think that it should pull hills better than that. You've pretty much covered the bases with a stock carb and exhaust. If the compression is good, I'd look at the cam lift. Not fun to replace, since the grille comes off or the engine comes out. If it turns out to be the cam, buy new, not reground.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I remember that you did some work on the head. Did you check cam lift against the spec, before? That I don't remember. But I think that it should pull hills better than that. You've pretty much covered the bases with a stock carb and exhaust. If the compression is good, I'd look at the cam lift. Not fun to replace, since the grille comes off or the engine comes out. If it turns out to be the cam, buy new, not reground.

I did not check the lift spec, not sure how to do that. Wouldn’t the lift be ok if I have good compression?

[Steeveedee]

Not necessarily, though you could end up with low compression if the cam is too worn. About the only indication of that would be taking a lot of cranking to get up to pressure. It only requires taking the valve cover off and checking. Go here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ghlight=hatzie

and download the '67 manual numbered 133. There is a procedure for checking cam lobe lift in the Engine section. Lobe lift should be about .231".

[gmc684x4]

If your going to rebuild engine 350 cheaper to rebuild then a 6 cylinder
Find a 14 bolt diff out of a 73 up truck
You must have a dana 60 as eaton diff are 4.10 and numerically up

Ls engines are nice too though research them first

My 62 k20 getting a l31 vortec 350 runs great needs new intake seals best price it was free the guy was determined he blew the head gaskets I fired it up drove into the garage good oil pressure pop the hood see antifreeze leaking out of the intake

I would look for nv4500 for a tranny 3/4 needs a tough tranny at the very least nv3500

[AcampoDave]

Mr. Hat, are you sure your distributor has a functional mechanical advance? Even a 350 is a dog if that doesn't work.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Mr. Hat, are you sure your distributor has a functional mechanical advance? Even a 350 is a dog if that doesn't work.

Good question!
I did test this a while back. I will admit, when removing and replacing the vacuum hose onto the distributor, it did not change the timing, or advance the timing. However, with the vacuum hose connected, I revved the motor and I could see the timing advance. At least, that is what I believe was happening.

At idle, the vacuum coming from the base of the carb does not change the timing. It only seems to affect the timing when the throttle is opened.

[Steeveedee]

That's ported spark advance. Once you are pulling a load, that advance drops off as the vacuum drops off, so it only relies on the mechanical advance then. I don't recall if you verified that the pointer matches the balancer zero mark at TDC. Did you do that?

[AcampoDave]

I've seen many a small block v/8 with froze up weights and springs. The rotor should easily twist a few degrees by hand and snap right back.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

That's ported spark advance. Once you are pulling a load, that advance drops off as the vacuum drops off, so it only relies on the mechanical advance then. I don't recall if you verified that the pointer matches the balancer zero mark at TDC. Did you do that?

I'm not sure what you mean.

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

I've seen many a small block v/8 with froze up weights and springs. The rotor should easily twist a few degrees by hand and snap right back.

I don't believe I have mechanical advance weights on the distributor. Could this be the problem? Where do I get these?

[AcampoDave]

When you get time can you pull your cap and rotor to post up a pic of what's under there?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

When you get time can you pull your cap and rotor to post up a pic of what's under there?

Here it is.

[Asshat]

Is this something I could get to replace the old distributor?
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Performa.../dp/B075SNZ6FJ

[AcampoDave]

Ok, wow, now my inliner ignorance is showing because I wasn't expecting you to have a distributor like that. What is that a Pertonix? And where are the weights and springs on a 292 distributor? Maybe under the floor plate?

The link you posted is an an HEI style and those are what I'm used to. I think they are a great choice but I hope someone in the inline crowd will jump in and help figure out if yours is working or not.
Edit... will that rotor twist a few degrees by hand and snap back?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Ok, wow, now my inliner ignorance is showing because I wasn't expecting you to have a distributor like that. What is that a Pertonix? And where are the weights and springs on a 292 distributor? Maybe under the floor plate?

The link you posted is an an HEI style and those are what I'm used to. I think they are a great choice but I hope someone in the inline crowd will jump in and help figure out if yours is working or not.
Edit... will that rotor twist a few degrees by hand and snap back?

Yes, it twists and snaps back.

[AcampoDave]

So , it should work. If you are timing the motor with a timing light and the vacum advance is disconnected, you should be able to gradually increase the rpm and see the balancer mark advancing up the scale on past the indicator numbers,. A slow steady climb as the revs gradually go up. Then, if you quickly release the throttle, the balancer mark should promptly drop back to your base timing setting and remain steady.. If it does that, it's likely working.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

So , it should work. If you are timing the motor with a timing light and the vacum advance is disconnected, you should be able to gradually increase the rpm and see the balancer mark advancing up the scale on past the indicator numbers,. A slow steady climb as the revs gradually go up. Then, if you quickly release the throttle, the balancer mark should promptly drop back to your base timing setting and remain steady.. If it does that, it's likely working.

I believe it is. I will check again tomorrow; maybe with a video.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I'm not sure what you mean.

If you manually turn the engine so that #1 piston is at TDC, is the timing mark on zero on the balancer? I don't recall if the sixes have the elastomeric ring on the balancers.

Be that as it may, what is your dwell? It should be 31º - 34º. Looking at your distributor cam, that's worn enough to be an issue. Those lobes should be a lot "sharper".

ETA- oops, no points. I expect that the Hall Effect is a bit "tamed" by the lack of a sharp trigger edge. Maybe find someone with a stock distributor and swap it in for an experiment before condemning that one. But I do suspect that that is an issue.