Sm420 install

[schetk]

Need help, I have a 63 c10, and don’t have a lift. What ideas for getting (lifting ) the heavy 4speed back up to the bell hosing .
I removed the crossmember rivets so I can move out of the way and bolt back in once I have the trans bolted in.
But these are tall transmission is hard to be able to get a jack under.
Any ideas?

[burnin oil]

Lay blocks of wood like a 4x4 next to it. Then roll it on its side. Slide a jack next to the bottom and roll back. I have done this more than once or rock it for and aft to get it high enough while adding wood blocks. Generally it's easiest to unbolt the floor pan and have a strong friend help yank it up. I have done many trans that are heavier with the wooden block method but you have to be careful. The compact size of the 420 will make it a challenge.

[cwcarpenter98]

You might be able to drop it in through the trans tunnel in the cab if you have an engine hoist

[Killer Bee]

trans jack is easier and safer.. they tilt on 2 axis and sit on 4 swivel casters for better alignment.. they have a wide base that's more stable.. broad lifting plates with adapter brackets to steady trans case and safety chains to keep trans from rolling off crushing fingers, hands, etc.

once trans is secured in the jack, measure height you'll need for frame clearance.. use your floor jack and stands to elevate the front of the truck high enough to roll trans under the tunnel..

you can elevate the trans from there and stab it once clutch kit is mounted and splines aligned.. if working height is too tall for comfort, use floor jack to adjust stands down or lower wheels to ground, whatever is more convenient..

that's the absolute safest and easiest way to do it without struggling with input shaft alignment and possibly misaligning or damaging clutch components..

you can rent, borrow, or buy trans jacks.. as a professional mechanic, I have access to equipment at work and friends who are mechanics, but I have a harbor freight jack in my garage I've used several times.. I bought it for a short notice weekend job but it was inexpensive and it actually works just fine.. you're not really working under it but still keep your hands out of the lift regardless of brand as there really isn't an easy way to add safety stands under them..

trans jacks can also come in handy for other automotive uses where standard floor jacks are awkward or not maneuverable..

one slip of a greasy heavy cast iron trans case, you may be sorely disappointed.. been doing this for over 30 years and not only have all my fingers and toes, they all work as designed

good luck!

btw, mine looks much like this from jegs, probably made in the same factory in china.. most adapter plates are similar and easy to fab brackets to fit odd shaped cases if needed..

[burnin oil]

Killer bee is correct on the trans jack and I actually have the same one. I still usually use the block of wood method to get the trans onto the jack once under the truck. I have had pretty good success with the factory plate and a 2x4 to help level odd shaped trans. Instead of the factory chain I use a cheap ratchet strap to retain the trans to the jack to keep it more secure. Also be careful with the plate adjusters. Once they get moved so far in one direction it can flop around some. I try to use killer bees method to roll the jack under the vehicle also but ran into some problems on certain frames, usually 4x4s.

[SkinnyG]

Cherry picker through the cab is actually much less precarious, and easier to maneuver.

[64shortbox]

As SkinnyG stated, This is the method I used when reinstalling the trans in the company Chevy Dump Truck. I rolled the trans under the truck, removed the high hump and went through the door of the truck with an engine hoist. to lift the trans. I did however remove the shifter from the trans and made an adaptor plate with an eye bolt to bolt where the shift lever plate goes. I was the only mechanic so I had to get this dome by myself. The bad part is I was able to find some scrap plate and an eye bolt at work to make my lift plate adaptor if this makes any sense.

[Short 3/4]

Done this R&R too many times over the years

Best trick I can share is to get a long grade 8 bolt the size of the 4 bolts that hold the trans to the bell housing (can't remember the size off hand). Then cut the head off the bolt and screw it into one of the top bolt holes (left I think). Lay trans on its side on your standard jack and lift it up enough so you can slide the upper hole of the trans onto the bolt. It's now supported and you can rotate it by hand to get the input shaft to line up and push it home.

Don't forget to leave trans in gear before you pull the stick off, that way you can rotate the shaft with the back yolk to get the splines to line up with the clutch splines.

Used to be a one man job when I was younger. Now need to have my wife on jack duty.

Good luck, and be careful! That sucker is heavy.

Tom

[Killer Bee]

not to be a negative nancy, but it's very difficult to finesse a trans input shaft through a clutch pack and line up on the pilot with a cherry picker, especially if it's your first time.. manipulating the hoist and scooting steel casters sideways or the arc of the chain swing all add to difficulty.. if you have a shop helper that knows how to coordinate with you then it's probably a more viable method..

I've replaced my fair share of clutches, albeit mostly heavy junk and on-road eaton 15.5 clutches.. I could replace the clutch on the road trans in a fire truck by noon on an in-n-out when the local seagrave dealer quoted two days.. I get y'alls point, I just wouldn't do it that way in a light truck that I own and drive in my driveway, again, especially if it was my first time..

below are a couple of bell housing alignment studs I made for the method mentioned above.. and an eaton that came in for clutch noise and vibration

I also cut a 1" hole in the bell housing on fuller trans to remove the pressure plate bolts.. I have r&r clutches loaded on the trans, just have to know what you're doing going back together.. soon as the plate draws up square in the flywheel pilot and the two little wood blocks drop out of the release bearing - bingo, you're home! but these jobs are all done with an otc hd trans jack

I swapped two sm465s and one th400 between three trucks in a weekend in my driveway.. long story what went where and why but the 4spd c30 stakebed drove home saturday, my 74 c20 was converted to auto, running sunday and I drove it to work monday.. the 77 c20 donor of the auto went to salvage..

I've replaced clutches in everything from civics to jeeps to dump trucks for my friends and never had a comeback

I'm by no means a clutch expert but I do speak from experience.. I know a lot of us can and do a lot of things various ways, but I'm only making a recommendation for someone that's asking, presumably someone that hasn't replaced a clutch before or wouldn't be asking.. good luck op and please keep it safe however you decide to do it!

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Cherry picker through the cab is actually much less precarious, and easier to maneuver.

Yep, works great for me. Nothing against the jack and dowells, its just that I own a cherry picker and I don't own a tranny jack. Granted i had to yank the seat and the carpet and stuff but that was more work than installing the tranny. Also if it fights you for that last little bit of space, just stab the clutch pedal and it usually goes flush.

[LostMy65]

I'm not sure if this was mentioned as helpful.