Hard Top Install Tricks?

[1970BannerBlazer]

Does anyone have any tricks for installing a hard top? I removed mine for the summer and now I'm trying to put it back on. Looks like the windshield frame shifted back a bit without support and now getting the top on is proving to be difficult.

[Yukon Jack]

How are your body mounts? If they are shot, replacing them will help get the body back in alignment. Short of that, you could get a pair of jacks under the frame around the area of the seats and see if lifting there would get the windshield frame to tweak forward a bit.

[Toro]

I recently reinstalled my top to prepare for rust repairs. The top had been removed for a long time and the mounting holes on the bedsides needed to go back in order to line up. Over time the windshield frame and bedsides had each sagged in towards the door openings. I used a large 8"x 8" wood block that was long enough to cover the width of the rocker boxes (to distribute the weight) on each side right under the middle of the door openings, and then using a jack on each side at the side time, slowly raised it up to flex the body back in the other direction. It worked great, and it really didn't have to be raised that much for everything to line back up. In my experience it worked much better having someone to help jack at the same time on the other side.

[1970BannerBlazer]

Great ideas with the jack. Thanks guys!

[praisegeetarman]

Sometimes the top windshield rubber isn't easily compressed to get the top to move far enough forward for the bedside holes to line up. I often use a ratchet tiedown strap hooked from one hatch hinge, around the windshield drip rail, and back to the other hatch hinge to compress the rubber and pull the top forward. Be careful. The hatch hinges can only withstand so much.

Keith

[1970BannerBlazer]

Update. The jack under the door truck worked. Gave me about 1/8” which was enough to get the bolt holes lined up. However, not my door doesn’t shut right. I have to push down to get the door to engage.

Two steps forward , one step back.

[Yukon Jack]

You will now need to add shims to certain body mounts to get the door to shut properly - replace the body mounts and hopefully with shims it will be good to go. I've seen a diagram that helps understand where to add shims to make certain adjustments.

Check out this post for the diagram http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard//...d.php?t=815548

[1970BannerBlazer]

Originally Posted by Yukon Jack

You will now need to add shims to certain body mounts to get the door to shut properly - replace the body mounts and hopefully with shims it will be good to go. I've seen a diagram that helps understand where to add shims to make certain adjustments.

Check out this post for the diagram http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard//...d.php?t=815548

Before taking off the top the doors **** perfect. After taking off the top they also shut perfect. Now, after reinstalling the top, only the drive side is having issues.

the issue is the door latch part attached to the door is striking the part attached to the frame too high.

I say this all to ask, do I really need to add shims?