HEI or points?

[FleetsidePaul]

Obviously an HEI distributer is more efficient or whatever. But my 396 has run on points for 50 years. I have to ask myself, do I want to dick with it? So do i fix the old or replace it? Any thoughts?

['68OrangeSunshine]

While I remember how proficient I was after about 40-something years of R&R'ing the points, adjusting the gap by feeler gauge, setting the dwell by meter, and all that, it's just a nostalgic memory now. The simple fact is I haven't had to deal with adjusting ignition for a while now. The module can burn out -- especially when dealing with the warranty-supplied crap Voltage Regulators spiking the alternator. But once fixed, it's good.
I carry a spare module in the glove box. Change it out in 15 minutes and you're back on the road again with no other adhjustments needed.
On my 292 L6, changing to electronic ignition was like adding a 5th gear.
Worth the change in my opinion.

[Getter-Done]

HEI in my opinion.
If you do go with HEI, Remember to run a 12 volt wire to it.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

While I remember how proficient I was after about 40-something years of R&R'ing the points, adjusting the gap by feeler gauge, setting the dwell by meter, and all that, it's just a nostalgic memory now. The simple fact is I haven't had to deal with adjusting ignition for a while now. The module can burn out -- especially when dealing with the warranty-supplied crap Voltage Regulators spiking the alternator. But once fixed, it's good.
I carry a spare module in the glove box. Change it out in 15 minutes and you're back on the road again with no other adhjustments needed.
On my 292 L6, changing to electronic ignition was like adding a 5th gear.
Worth the change in my opinion.

This. Carry a spare HEI module and be done. Good points are getting very hard to find. I paid over $30 recently for NOS Delco for a '73 C10. Could not find Blue Streak locally. Don't trust discount ones. Don't hear good about NAPA/Echlin anymore.

[Ironangel]

HEI! You wont regret it!

[Accelo]

HEI. Lasts longer and stays in tune.
GM had to eliminate the variables to stay in-inside the pollution regulations.
GM had an electronic ignition since 1964 as an extra cost option on the Corvette.
It was a cost issue at first and then a compliance issue in the later years.
Modern ignitions have gone several steps further in eliminating variables.
By going to individual coils and crank triggered ignition spark manufactures have removed the timing chain and the gears at the distributor as point of looseness.
And coil on plugs have eliminated the wires as a source of possible misfires.
The crank trigger is also allows the computer to identify misfires and which cylinder the come from by watching for the acceleration of the crank during each firing stroke.

So by all means switch. You will never look back as the motor will start easier and plugs will last longer.
Cheers.

[Stocker]

Because the engine sits closer to the firewall in a K-series (or so I've read), changing points in my K20 is a PITA. Years before I heard of this forum, I bought a used GM HEI and installed it. Best thing I ever did for my truck. Even if the truck was lower and the engine sat a few inches forward, I'd say convert to HEI. Especially since your old system needs fixing now.

[body bolt]

Twenty five years ago I bought my HEI at the flea market, installed it and have never bothered with it since.

[72SB]

OP

You can go new HEI dizzy or just install a Pertronix module in your points dizzy which is what I have done on my 67 & 72

If staying with the 3 wire ALT I would, and did, install a Tuff Stuff solid state VR

and yes you need to eliminate the resistance wire to dizzy with a standard braided 12 gauge wire from IGN for a full 12vdc to + coil

IMHO either way better than points

[72c20customcamper]

I'm going to change the 68 to HEI at some point its running nice now . But on something I use alot I'd go to electronic . All my Studebakers are still points the Avanti has duel points they make HEIs for them but I drive them maybe 150 miles a year so it's not that cost effective .


If your going through the ignition system anyway change it out.

[special-K]

Go HEI has been the word forever. I never had an issue with points but went HEI for performance. I have owned many of these trucks I never changed and never regretted it. I've never had the original ignition leave me dead on the road.

Changing it to HEI is a good idea

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

I went the opposite, my 68 had HEi when I bought it and tossed it to go back to points. All the old cars in the garage but 1 (Uni-light) is running points and never have a problem with them. I have had to mess more with HEI's over the last decade than my points, not as bad as Pertronix units though.

Might help that everything sits most of the winter and just gets fired up once in a awhile. Then every spring hook the dwell meter up, but have not really had to do any adjustments in a long time.

As far as performance, never really saw an advantage with HEI, My old drag truck still runs points with a old MSD 6AL box and has made many, many passes and never skipped a beat or have an issue.

[kwmech]

I changed over to HEI on my 68 years ago only b'cuz the resistor burned itself out. Was going to do it anyways, but the wire told me when to do it. All my other trucks are converted. It is a simple swap other than the initial expense of replace the whole ignition system at one time. I did keep the point system and bought a ballast resistor just in case of an 'electrical surge' (EMP) that may kill electronics

[StingRay]

HEI. But having a spare module is a good idea. The pick up coil in the distributor has two wires going to it that will fatigue and break over time. All of the movement from vacuum advance is what will kill them. It can run one minute and be dead the next. Make sure if you put a used unit in it that you replace that coil. It's not a side of the road job to replace the pick up as you need to take the gear off and slide the shaft out to replace it. I've done more than a few over the years.

[tutone]

I have HEI in all my classics. BUT I have a couple of points dists. and coils ready to go in case of EMP attacks. Not really, I just keep them around in case HEI parts are hard to get. At least my vehicles are flexible enough to go either way. I have noticed that pretty much everything you go to the parts store has to be ordered.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Because the engine sits closer to the firewall in a K-series (or so I've read), changing points in my K20 is a PITA. Years before I heard of this forum, I bought a used GM HEI and installed it. Best thing I ever did for my truck. Even if the truck was lower and the engine sat a few inches forward, I'd say convert to HEI. Especially since your old system needs fixing now.

The OP has a C/20 with a BBC, so he'll be fine.
But I know what you mean. I have a full coil-on-top standard HEI on the 350 in my '71 GMK Jimmy K/1500. The clearance under the firewall arch is so tight, I have to take the cap off and install the lower distributor half and get it seated, then place the cap [w/ coil] on top and set the 4 spring hooks to secure it. If the plug wires are detatched, I have to put them back in sequence.
In my '68 C/10 Stepside, I have an L6 292. I had a Pertronix for a few years, but it had problems. Above 3000 RPM it would kill the ignition.
Went back to points for a year. Then tried HEI. First set was a bad Chinese copy from ''Assault Racing.'' Crap out of the box. Dead module, as in DOA. Bad EBay deal.[Go genuine GM]
I rebuilt the lower assembly with new pick up, module, pigtail, and went with a remote cap and separate coil, as I was having clearance issues with the taller 292 block. [Or so I thought.]
After some fine tuning, it works fine. But I do keep a known good* spare HEI module in the glovebox of each truck.
* Any decent FLAPS with associates who are not coming down from a crack buzz will have a testor that can check modules. Don't throw them away till they flunk. One time, I quickly R&R-ed my module in the middle of the street, only to find out my fuel pump was kaput. Ignition was fine.

[72SB]

Since my truck came with the Pertronix I will keep it. Like anything else they need to be installed right. Beyond the resistance wire remove, you need to set the gap right between module and PU....which many fail to do. Otherwise, I have not had any issues with their modules

The no name dizzys with some offshore clone module...yes those are junk. Points work fine as long as they are set right and replaced when worn out but frankly HEI ignitions are better, especially at high RPM in my experience. YMMV

[CJ2A]

HEI

I would only keep the points if you are trying to stay original or close to original. HEI is less maintenance, higher performance, and has been getting lower in price with the newer systems coming out for the older engines (some of the newer systems are very sweet, expensive but sweet !)

Bottom line is enjoy what you drive ! What makes you happy ?

[rwogs]

Originally Posted by FleetsidePaul

Obviously an HEI distributer is more efficient or whatever. But my 396 has run on points for 50 years. I have to ask myself, do I want to dick with it? So do i fix the old or replace it? Any thoughts?

I live in a very wet area and it seemed the truck failed to start after sitting for a few months (moisture would accumulate in the distributor). I eventually replaced the points with an HEI system and love it (when something else isn't keeping it from running) that and the coil seemed to burn out on an irregular basis.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I have a full coil-on-top standard HEI on the 350 in my '71 GMK Jimmy K/1500. The clearance under the firewall arch is so tight, I have to take the cap off and install the lower distributor half and get it seated, then place the cap [w/ coil] on top and set the 4 spring hooks to secure it.

Yep.... I have the same HEI in my K20, with the same tight clearance issues and the same install procedure. I'm glad I haven't had to mess with it....

[custom10nut]

2001 I bought a Mallory Electronic Conversion Kit. Put it in, and worked like a dream. It didn’t even mess with the Factory Tach. Just last year I had to replace the module, but the first one lasted 20 years.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by FleetsidePaul

Obviously an HEI distributer is more efficient or whatever. But my 396 has run on points for 50 years. I have to ask myself, do I want to dick with it? So do i fix the old or replace it? Any thoughts?

I don't know anything about points less the old dist. is tucked away, because it failed somehow. It was pulled many decades ago for a 1975ish Delco HEI which has been great. My old mechanic talked me into it. From what I've heard and perhaps some level felt is the engine will perform better with HEI.

The only clearance issue was I "had to" buy a button head bolt for the brake booster vacuum tube on the manifold, to clear the cap's hook. Looks like it belongs there.

That said, I pulled and installed the distributor without the cab I don't see a problem though, worst case scenario I'd have to remove the cap to pull the distributor. It's 5-6" from the firewall pocket.

[Accelo]

If you go with a HEI purchase the 1975 Corvette wires. They have the same Ram Horns so they are the correct length. The wires have the correct ends so they will fit the distributor cap.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I don't know anything about points less the old dist. is tucked away, because it failed somehow. It was pulled many decades ago for a 1975ish Delco HEI which has been great. My old mechanic talked me into it. From what I've heard and perhaps some level felt is the engine will perform better with HEI.

The only clearance issue was I "had to" buy a button head bolt for the brake booster vacuum tube on the manifold, to clear the cap's hook. Looks like it belongs there.

That said, I pulled and installed the distributor without the cab I don't see a problem though, worst case scenario I'd have to remove the cap to pull the distributor. It's 5-6" from the firewall pocket.

Are big blocks situated lower than SBCs?
The distributor/firewall clearance issue is with 4X4s.

[70cst]

Agreed with HEI - my 402 has been on HEI for a very long time and no issues.