05-24-2022, 12:22 PM | #1 |
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Help Front Alignment
I have front Suspension Alignment problems, I can't get my Camber to be negative adjusted. The starting point is 2,5" drop spindles and 2" inch drop Springs with 63er front and I have all the shims removed to get on the Driver Side from 1.5 ° positive to 0, Passenger Side are all out shims and I'm on ca. 1 ° even in the positive, actually I should nevertheless shims stappeln in lowering my UCAs are not reversed, I have the LCAs outside set to Jack about the hub to have free.
The blue jacks are free, just to safety. Is my measurement setup wrong? It was recommended here once and it seemed right to me.
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05-24-2022, 01:30 PM | #2 |
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Re: Help Front Alignment
From the factory, these trucks did have positive camber and only 0 to 2 degrees of positive caster.
Did you do the caster mod to get more positive caster out of it? Also, if you're just trying to set initial measurements so you can get to an alignment shop, you'll be fine, but if you're trying to get the final alignment numbers now, they will change when you get the weight of the hood and other sheet metal on the truck
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05-24-2022, 02:00 PM | #3 |
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Re: Help Front Alignment
No, not a Castermod, which Surprises me that I have to remove all the shims to even get into the area. When Caster setting I would have still at the back post shims add after that, I would be back in a positive, Only preset, then after that professional setting.
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05-24-2022, 10:32 PM | #4 |
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Re: Help Front Alignment
The caster mod that I mentioned moves the lower control arm forwards on the frame. This thread shows how to do it: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501241
Is it beneficial, yes. Necessary for a functioning vehicle, no. Since you're just getting a preliminary setting before the professionals handle it, the caster and camber settings aren't that big of a deal if you don't have them perfect. Just don't drive several thousand miles that way. The most important measurement to get right will be the toe
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Christian Carpenter 1963 C10 - Frankentruck 283, Muncie 3 speed with overdrive Overdrive wiring here1963-ish truck bed trailer - Half-Wit 1981 C10 - Penny 305, th350 --> Soon to be 350, Saginaw 4 speed 1995 Dodge Dakota Sport "I'll put it simple: if you're going hard enough left, you'll find yourself turning right." - Doc Hudson |
05-24-2022, 10:36 PM | #5 |
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Re: Help Front Alignment
Until you have full and final weight on the vehicle, anything you align is not going to matter. You can "eyeball it," but don't worry about anything until then.
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05-25-2022, 01:55 AM | #6 |
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Re: Help Front Alignment
Thanks for your help, the last two pictures are only intended to show the position of the UCAs, yes the front is not complete yet, I will continue to assemble and then see.
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05-25-2022, 08:42 AM | #7 |
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Re: Help Front Alignment
Camber will definitely change once full weight is on the suspension. If you're reaching 0° as is, you should easily be able to achieve a slight NEG Camber goal.
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05-25-2022, 12:21 PM | #8 |
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Re: Help Front Alignment
You need weight on the suspension. Once its low enough that the lower control arm is level the suspension will gain roughly -.8* camber for every inch lower than that. You can swap in .500" taller ball joints from QA1 to quicken the rate of camber gain to around 1.6* per inch of travel.
A few years ago I set up a dial indicator and measured camber change with travel. The numbers above will be different with different ride heights but its a good way to show that camber isn't a static number, it changes with height.
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05-25-2022, 12:54 PM | #9 |
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Re: Help Front Alignment
Thanks for the comments, that's interesting and I'll take it into account if the need arises.
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