headlight switch shaft release

[wwc]

I removed the instrument panel from the dash, detaching all connectors. I released the shaft for the headlights by depressing the button on top of the headlight controls. Replacing the panel I reinserted the headlight shaft, forgot to put on the chrome ring so I tried removing the shaft from the switch like before but I will not come out regardless of how hard I push the button on the switch or what position the shaft is in. Lights will work, but I would like to replace the chrome ring behind the knob. Any idea why its stuck?

68 chevy c10

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by wwc

I removed the instrument panel from the dash, detaching all connectors. I released the shaft for the headlights by depressing the button on top of the headlight controls. Replacing the panel I reinserted the headlight shaft, forgot to put on the chrome ring so I tried removing the shaft from the switch like before but I will not come out regardless of how hard I push the button on the switch or what position the shaft is in. Lights will work, but I would like to replace the chrome ring behind the knob. Any idea why its stuck?

68 chevy c10

Are you putting it in the park position, pushing the button down, then pulling it out the rest of the way? If not, try that.

LockDoc
.

[Reddeye]

Dang, I thought it only came out after you wrestled with it for an hour, got really sweaty, and started offending the neighbors with creative language. At least that's how it came out for me.

[cj847]

In my experience I have never found a trick that works consistently. you just have to fiddle with it until you hit the right spot. Doesn't seem to matter whether the switch is old or new. Twist it, push it in and out, press the button hard and soft and 1/2 way and all the way.

Sometimes I get lucky and it come out immediately, other times not so much.

[hounddogs!]

Originally Posted by cj847

In my experience I have never found a trick that works consistently. you just have to fiddle with it until you hit the right spot. Doesn't seem to matter whether the switch is old or new. Twist it, push it in and out, press the button hard and soft and 1/2 way and all the way.

Sometimes I get lucky and it come out immediately, other times not so much.

This, plus the blood offering to the god of scraped knuckles. It should be left on the sheetmetal above the switch.

[wwc]

thanks for the support. I have tried most of the suggestions, thankfully I have no close neighbors; I will try again, only this time I will try the one thing no one mentioned, I will try to hold my mouth right.

[CG]

I had one once I couldnt get out so I went in the house to "cool off" and grab a glass of water. My honey was in the kitchen and asked me what I was up to. I told her and tried to keep it calm (haha) and she said she would be happy to try, her hands were smaller. I started to say no I can reach just fine and decided. Just to make her a part of the game Id let her so she could see the darn thing isnt coming out. Reaches up, fiddles about, pulls the knob and shaft out ... there ya go sweetie =)

This was before Mic Drop was a thing, she would have been all over it if it was.

[HotWheelsFan]

Yes, sometimes you have to "fiddle with it" to get the shaft to release.

In my experience, knowing what the shaft release mechanism looks like on the inside, has made removal easier for me. A youtube video or set of pictures showing the release mechanism in detail might help

Bob

[LockDoc]

-
I have also found that making sure you push the button straight down helps. The button is kind of sloppy and it will move around some when you push it down, resulting in a bind on the shaft. It's such an awkward position it's hard to push it straight down.

LockDoc

['68OrangeSunshine]

OP -- Holding your mouth right usually does the trick. There are many ways to hold your mouth, and remembering the right way is the thing. Also it differs from truck to truck.
I had a problem with the 51 year old headlight knob in my '71 Jimmy. It pulled out and pushed in OK, but the knob spun on its shaft -- making adjusting the dash light intensity level useless. I got a new one from a vendor, and it works.

Then, this week, I got my '68 Stepside out of the shop, and reached for the headlights knob. I pulled to put the lights on -- and the knob came off in my hand. ''Lucky it's daylight out, or I'm in trouble without headlight control,'' I thought.
When I got home, I looked closely at the pulled-off knob. It was the Wipers knob. It has a set screw on the side and a D shaped hole to fit on the Wiper Switch shaft . Since I pulled it hard, the ''ribs'' inside cracked. I could try packing the voids with JB Weld, to reinforce it, or buy repop replacements.

The issue is that my '68 was a Standard [fleet] model and all the aftermarket parts offered are for the DeLuxe trim level.The Standard knobs: Headlights, Wipers, and Choke were solid black plastic with no chromed steel dot in the center.
Model Years '67 and '68 had the Choke knob on the right, top. The Wiper Switch was on the left, top, and the Headlight knob was below it.
MY '69-'72 moved the knobs around. Most Chokes were now automatic and the knob was deleted. The Wiper switch moved up to the Top right. If there was a Choke knob, it was below that. The Headlight Switch moved up to the top on the left.
Since I'd been driving the '71 for 4 months while the '68 Stepside was down, I'd gotten used to the later configuration, and pulled on the wrong knob while not taking my eyes off the road.
Pilot Error.

None of the parts vendors carry the Standard [all black] knobs. There are only knobs with chomed centers pictured in catalogs.
If the JB Weld trick does not work, I guess I'll have to buy all three, so the dash matches.