My New Truck

[TKCR]

I can’t get over how clean you’re getting this. Awesome job!

[Factory Guy]

Just stumbled across this picture from some 46 years ago!

[ShortHaul]

Originally Posted by Factory Guy

Just stumbled across this picture from some 46 years ago!

Man that's incredible. Frame it.

[hewittca]

Wow, that is a great picture of the truck. Your truck is so clean you could have told me that is a recent pic with a filter on it and I would have believed you!

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by hewittca

Wow, that is a great picture of the truck. Your truck is so clean you could have told me that is a recent pic with a filter on it and I would have believed you!

Thank you!

Just funny what you find when your NOT looking for it!

[Factory Guy]

So I am trying to mate up the 4L80e and the Engine. I decided it would probably be a good Idea to make sure the dipstick for the trans fits?

Of course this aftermarket dipstick uses the 1 ONE hole on the engine bolt where on a LS BOLT there is NO BOLT hole. So what is one to do?

I decide lets get a 10mm nut/washer combo(pictured), drill out the hole a smidge wider and put the nut in backwards on the trans housing so it will allow a bolt to secure the dipstick tube securely. Plus then you must cut the bolt off to prevent it from hitting the engine block.

So I fit it up then grind off the back of the nut so it will fit flush on the bell housing, thus not allowing the trans to get pushed out against the engine block.

To my surprise it worked really well. Now I will JB weld the nut into to he hole so it doesn't fall out when I bolt the engine and the trans together!

[HAULIN' IT]

Personally Id get the correct LS dip stick. Option Two would be make a new tab to mount to something else.
I see Two potential problems with your "fix". One, Unless you ground quite a taper/step on the hole (and maybe you did just that) in the transmission I cant see it being below the mating surface. Bolting up the trans, tightening the bolts on either side, even if that nut is only a few thousandths high could lead to problems. Maybe not the day you tighten them...maybe never but still not a fan.
Reason #2, After some time of heat, vibration ect. if/when you go to remove the dip stick you may be hating life trying to figure what to do with that spinning nut thats loose down behind the engine. My Two Cents, Lorne

By the way, At 16 I had a '76 Camper Special that exact paint scheme. HaHa

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by HAULIN' IT

Personally Id get the correct LS dip stick. Option Two would be make a new tab to mount to something else.
I see Two potential problems with your "fix". One, Unless you ground quite a taper/step on the hole (and maybe you did just that) in the transmission I cant see it being below the mating surface. Bolting up the trans, tightening the bolts on either side, even if that nut is only a few thousandths high could lead to problems. Maybe not the day you tighten them...maybe never but still not a fan.
Reason #2, After some time of heat, vibration ect. if/when you go to remove the dip stick you may be hating life trying to figure what to do with that spinning nut thats loose down behind the engine. My Two Cents, Lorne

By the way, At 16 I had a '76 Camper Special that exact paint scheme. HaHa

Thanks for the input!

[ShortHaul]

I’ll second this. I tried a lokar dipstick on my 62 Impala 6.0 swap because it looked 10x better than the stock one. But it ended up being nothing but a headache (mounting, incorrect length etc so I eventually swapped back to stock. Seemed like such a simple item, but man did it end up being a pain in the ass.

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by ShortHaul

I’ll second this. I tried a lokar dipstick on my 62 Impala 6.0 swap because it looked 10x better than the stock one. But it ended up being nothing but a headache (mounting, incorrect length etc so I eventually swapped back to stock. Seemed like such a simple item, but man did it end up being a pain in the ass.

Agreed, at least that is what I have read as well. That's why I bought the AFTERMARKET hard tube, hoping I would NOT have some of those issues...will see...

[Factory Guy]

I thought I would share this since I just recently learned this:

A fellow C10 guy approached me and stated that my Truck has a "Special Deluxe" Camper Special package that was NOT the base model package. So after some searching I have found the GM document which supports such.

As this 3/4 ton Camper Special Package has some different options than other Camper Specials, all of which were factory installed.

1) rear shocks in the BED of the Truck that are attached to the cab,
2) tie down hooks with bolts and brackets to fasten a camper to frame of the truck through holes in the side of the pickup bed, (with grommets around the holes).
3) Front fender shock mounts to bolt shocks to the front overhang of the camper.

Gm Titles this:

Also includes Elimi-Pitch Package consisting of rear stabilizer, horizontal shock absorbers mounted between cab rear panel and pickup box sides panels, vertical shock absorbers brackets mounted on front fenders plus vertical shock absorbers shipped loose for dealer or owner installation.

I guess this package is labeled the z83 "Deluxe" Camper Special Package. Versus the base Camper Special package of z81.

See RPO sheet.

[Factory Guy]

I just got a copy of the sales brochure for the Camper Special Equipment for anybody who is interested.

[Factory Guy]

Out with the old and in with the new gas tanks!

[hewittca]

That brochure is cool to go with your accessories on the truck. I was curious how that bed shock absorber worked. From your photo it looked like it just went between the bedside and the bed header panel and I thought, wow that's a gimmick! But now I see there's a hole through the header and the shock connects to the cab. I do still wonder how effective that is. That is one cool truck you have!

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by hewittca

That brochure is cool to go with your accessories on the truck. I was curious how that bed shock absorber worked. From your photo it looked like it just went between the bedside and the bed header panel and I thought, wow that's a gimmick! But now I see there's a hole through the header and the shock connects to the cab. I do still wonder how effective that is. That is one cool truck you have!

I never thought much about the shocks in the bed until I realized MANY Camper Specials didn't come with them. As far as effective I can tell you, it might have been better then not having the shocks but we DID NOT have a big Camper an it swayed a lot with our smaller Camper. So yes I would tend to agree it was a gimmick. I think the Dually back then would have been muck better suited to a Camper then even my truck.

But Thanks for the comments.

[Factory Guy]

Awe Crap! Now this happened...

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...57#post9233457

[Factory Guy]

Slowly making some progress.

Fuel system should now be complete! Driveshaft, Pollack valve and ALL fuel lines installed! Hard lines installed everywhere possible.

[aotte1]

Thanks for fuel line photos, replacing tanks/fuel lines on 86 too.

You have a Great truck, purchased a new 1973 Chevrolet Super Cheyenne back then while in school ( university of Alaska-Fairbanks), remember 4 speed had a Chrome shift lever.


Les

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by aotte1

Thanks for fuel line photos, replacing tanks/fuel lines on 86 too.

You have a Great truck, purchased a new 1973 Chevrolet Super Cheyenne back then while in school ( university of Alaska-Fairbanks), remember 4 speed had a Chrome shift lever.


Les

Thanks for the compliments! I thought my dad scored a pretty nice truck in 1975 when he got this one! And since I have no plans on ever getting rid of this truck...

Glad to hear these fuel line photo's might help somebody else. Fyi- All of the rubber fuel line is the high pressure GATES BARRICADE HOSE (I bought it off of eBay in increments of 4-6 Ft). The vent lines are regular fuel hose running back up front to the Charcoal cannisters (yes I am keeping them). The hard fuel lines above the tranny are NICop- 3/8" and 5/16" lines, I bent myself so I would have hard lines over the trans, going to the drivers side fuel rail on the engine.

I think the hardest part of this build, is all the retro fitting I have had to do just to make things fit/work.

Like running all of the new hard fuel lines AND installing the POLLACK valve.

Hopefully that will all pay off going forward.

[LT7A]

Thanks for the update on the turtle ceramic. The truck looks great! And thanks for taking the time to detail your process. It's a good read.

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Thanks for the update on the turtle ceramic. The truck looks great! And thanks for taking the time to detail your process. It's a good read.

Thanks for the comments! Ready to get the truck out and start driving it.

[Factory Guy]

Progresss has slowwweeeddd, as stuff around the house continues to require my attention. Truck progress has suffered. But heres some recent photo's

[Factory Guy]

A few more...

[olrosa]

Very nice

[TKCR]

Maybe slow progress, but it sure shows that you are doing an excellent job. Looks like a new truck!