Door latch Help/Advice

[Alloyvert]

I am in the process of upgrading all the worn out drivers door components that started with new hinge pins and bushings.

Then the fun started as there appears to be a slight difference between the old latch and the NOS part (3865418). After installing both the new door control and NOS latch, the door would not fully release/open from the outside handle and required using the inside control to fully release it from the striker plate. The first thing I found was a much bigger gap between the external button push rod and the latch with the NOS latch installed (~.2 inch gap), which seems to be the issue as there is not enough travel left to fully disengage the latch catch.

First photo is the NOS latch, original in the 2nd pic. You can also see the clear gap with the external button push pin and the NOS latch plate.

I am stumped as there no real adjustments for the latch assembly itself and has the same external push pin gap with or without the control lever hooked up. Adjusting the striker has no effect on the issue since the latch is physically not engaging far enough in to release the catch on the latch gear.

I was really excited to find the NOS part, but at this point I am not sure how to make it work. Any ideas??

[SkinnyG]

I had to build up the locking pawl with weld on one of mine so that it would work properly (not your problem, but indicitive of "some love required."

I still have to get in there and bend that big tab your measuring to so that the push button doesn't disappear (and stick) inside the handle.

Everything on these needs a tweak here and there.

[Alloyvert]

Thanks Skinny. I thought about bending the tab, but that could be a bit challenging based on the thickness and lack of metal to clamp it. I also think extending the push button rod could be an option. I have a 3d printer and may try making up a simple extension to try out this theory.

[Agv63]

Hi.
I would drill and tap for a socket head cap screw, so the rod section of push button can locate into the hex socket of bolt head, can adjust to suit and fit a nut on the back to lock it down.
Cant remember the size of latch arm. So can't say what size bolt will fit there.

Cheers.
Adriaan.

[SkinnyG]

I'd bet a 1/4-20 would thread fine.

[Alloyvert]

Well, after a couple hours of tinkering and learning a bit about how these latches work, it appears I have this solved. There were several variables in play including a NOS latch assembly, after market door latch control and a NOS striker plate. All 3 originals were super worn out and needed replacing.

To address the gap between the push button rod and latch, I used my 3D printer to print a simple slip on extension. It took a couple versions to dial in the distance and it seems to be working good. Then while testing the latch, I realized the inside latch catch was not releasing all the way. After taking the latch out a couple times and closely comparing it the original, I found the culprit. The original latch uses very thin rubber bumper stops, whereas the NOS one has a much thicker stop for the interior lever that was holding the interior latch catch too far back into the gear. After removing the thick rubber bumper it was visually obvious the issue was resolved as the interior latch catch was clearly away from the locking gear.

Also included a photo of the printed button rod extension. Not sure how long it will last, but was super simple to print and I can easily make another or just make a more rigid version with some aluminum rod. This is the second time the time printer bailed me out on the this truck as I was unable to find the correct horn button standoffs that were missing from my deluxe steering wheel. After ordering several that were either too long or short, I drew up and printed standoffs that worked perfectly.

The door closes excellent now with minimal effort.

Thanks for the help!!

[SkinnyG]

Genius!

[Braunschweiger]

Engineering,awesome.