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12-19-2006, 08:32 PM | #1 | |
Until Seventy Times Seven
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Rocky Mountain Front Range
Posts: 1,301
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Steering Box Seal - Input *arkracing*
Quote:
I tried to respond to your email message, but your inbox is full (rejecting messages). When my seal went south, I went out and bought an Input Shaft Seal Kit for about $15. Replacing the seal on the input shaft wasn't too bad of a job, once the locking nut breaks loose. Remove the nuts and bolts from the steering shaft/Flexible Coupler. Then, after marking the orientation of the locking nut and the adjuster plug on the steering box housing, use a punch to loosen lock nut on the steering box. It may take a few tries around the locking nut to loosen it. After removing the locking nut, use a pin spanner wrench (from bicycle shop or ???) to remove the adjuster plug. Keep track of the number of turns required to completely remove the adjuster plug. The adjuster plug assembly can then be pulled out of the steering box. The retaining ring can then be removed to disassemble the adjuster plug assembly. You can then remove and replace the stub shaft dust seal, stub shaft seal, and the o-ring. You then reassembly everything and including the new retaining ring. Then install the adjuster plug to the exact number of turns and align it with the earlier alignment mark. (To check the Thrust Bearing Preload: tighten the adjuster plug with the spanner wrench until the thrust bearing is firmly bottomed, about 20 ft-lbs. Then back it out a 1/2" counterclockwise. It should be close to the original alignment mark.) Then install and tighten the locking nut. Be sure that the adjuster plug doesn't rotate as you tighten the locking nut. Good luck.
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boxRODz 1983 C10 SWB Fleetside When two halves is gone, there's nuthin left. Two nothings is nuthin. That's mathematics son. You can argue with me but you can't argue with figures. Two half nothings is a whole nuthin... |
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