suggestions and guidance on lowering a 67 C10

[Vince Putt]

suggestions and guidance on lowering a 67 C10
I'm finally getting to the point where I can start my rebuild on my wife's truck.
A 67 SWB.

We are going for a daily driver that is rock solid reliable and won't make us feel like we are riding a skateboard on the power tour.

Planning on running something along the line of a 60 series tire on 8" ralley wheel in the front and a 60 series tire on a 10" ralley on the back. We are after the look of a filled wheelwell with tire. I'm thinking of a 4-6 drop. would be enough to get it to the ride height I want. I've poured though pictures for the last 6 months or so looking at the stance of different trucks. The ride quality is my major concern. I don't want tires rubbing body panels in any way.

Roads are pretty rough here in eastern Pa. so I have to be conservative for the ride height. Otherwise I may have to put tow hooks and a winch on it to get it out of a pothole.

Here's what I have parts wise that I'd like to use I need your opinion here:
A pair of bell dropped spindles for an 85 C10 truck the entire front crossmember from the 85 including power steering box, 5" bolt pattern brakes, master clyinder, stock height springs, tilt steering and all parts.
It's my understanding the the 85 crossmember is pretty much a bolt in shy of changing some bolt holes. There has been a big discussion going on about people are dropping (sectioning the front crossmember). How viable is sectioning the crossmember? I'm not afraid of doing the work but I'm wondering is it really necessary. It appears to me that it would or could really help out with ground clearance. If I modified the front crossmember 1 1/2 inches like I saw on the suspension board and used the drop spindles ( I think they are 2 1/2 inch drop. I'll compare them to a stock set of spindles when I tear the front end apart.) that would give me a 4" drop allowing stock springs and shocks to be used.

I'm thinking using a new stock height spring and shock would give me the very best ride quality; Shy of maybe ditching the entire front crossmember and going to a custom built front crossmember like a fatman or Jim Meyer racing. Am I missing something in my thinking?

What kind of tire interferance might I run into with this game plan? In theory
this plan would be the same effect as Z-ing the frame to lower the front of the body over without moving the engine. Am I missing something here or am I correct?

for the rear I have acquired a coil spring C10 frame, I have a 6 lug stock stock rear axle. I'm not real sure on the condition of the trailing arms they look pretty rusty. I'll sandblast them and decide if they are usable. New ones are available at about $350. If I stay with the trailing arms lowering blocks and new shorter springs and relocated shocks appear to be my only option to get to six inches. and I'll have to c the frame. Is this correct?
Other parts and pieces I've seen are things like a a new center crossmember.
The manufacturer says it's to be used with trucks with a 5" or more drop.
I'm not sure if I have to go that far for the look I want. Should or could I use that center crossmember regardless of my drop? I'll be running a one piece driveshaft. How low can things go before I run into driveshaft hitting the stock center crossmember? Would the modified crossmember be needed to relocate the control arms if I go with a six inch drop? I see that one of the advantages of it would be driveshaft clearance and a modified way to route the exhaust through the crossmember.

I have another option of using a 9"in ford with disc brakes from a lincoln versiales. It is a 5 lug 4 1/2 bolt pattern. I also have an Art Morrison Adjustable Ladder bar setup with coil over springs. If I go with the Art Morrison adjustable ladder bar setup I could have a lot of flexability because of the adjustments of the way the shock and spring tower mounts to set the ride height. and I can order different spring rates to get the ride quality. Again ride quality and tire interference are the major concerns.

Technology has come a long way and I've been seeing that Airbags are being used alot now.
How viable is the Air bag thing? Are they reliable? I remember my buddy's Lincoln that almost always had rear airbag problems. I know that this would be an expensive venture. I'm not wishing to set the frame rails on the ground I'm interested in having a quality ride that's super reliable.

As for my engine I'm currently planning on a 355" SB. But If I could find an LS1 and six speed manual or automatic that may be an option but in reality I don't see it happening.

Ok I'm all ears, Give me some ideas on how low I should go and what your thoughts are on my options.

Thanks Vince