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08-19-2005, 09:03 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Spartanburg, SC
Posts: 1,963
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Long to Short bed How-to:
I've answered quite a few questions about this, but I didnt want to write the how to b/c I lost all my pics to a virius.......
Here it is though, vague as it can be. When I get my truck down here (its still in SC) I'll try to take some pics so you can see what I'm talking about... First get your '6 bed. It will help immensely and no guess work will be necessary. Start in a place that is a close to level as you can get. Next, take off the '8 bed and put the 6' on, yes it will look very funny. You can then see exactly where you need to cut. Around 5 3/4" must come off after the axle. This will be very close to your shackles. If you want to run a bumper, you will need to switch to the SWB leaves as well. You will have to relocate the shackle bracket about 5" towards the cab. Its easy to see b/c the holes are already in the frame. Now the rear of the bed should be sitting flat on the frame. The rear most holes of the 6' bed will line up exactly with what was the 2nd holes from the tailgate on the 8' bed. use this to get your correct front to back alignment. You can now measure and mark where to cut the front. I took 14" outta mine. I went 1.5 or 1.25 off the rear cab mount, and the same off the first bed crossmember. Now disconnect the brake line, park brake cables, fuel lines, driveshaft and remove the fuel tank. Make sure all lines and wires are out of the way of where your going to cut. Use a 4x4 or a good size piece of channel long enough to fit between the bottoms of the frame rails. You need two, one to support each side of the frame while you cut. Use a good jack to support them, dont put alot of pressure on there, just to hold it up. As you cut you may have to jack the cab up, it will have all the weight on it and you dont want it to fall. You need to keep it as level as possible to make the cutting easier. I did all this with one sazall blade! Before you start cutting, block BOTH front tires on the front and back side. You do not want the cab/front end to move AT ALL! Double and triple check your measurements and that everything is out of the way (gas,brake,wires etc...) Now you can cut, take your time, leave just a small place at each cut, like an 1/16" before you cut all the way through top and bottom. Cut those last. You really need someone to work the jacks and make sure the cab isnt going to fall on you or move. Ok so now your done cutting and if your like me you stood there for a minute or so realizing how crazy you are realizing you just cut your pride and joy in half! Get over it, its too late now. You can do the cut however you want. Somepeople say to make them overlap, i did mine pretty much like this ] 14" [ pushed them together ][ and butt welded them. Then I put a 1/8" plate on the inside of the frame and welded all around it as well. Good penetration and patience is the key here. A good weld will be just as good if not better than it was before. Thats pretty much it, put your new 16 gal tank on, your shortened driveshaft, shortbed brake line and cables. I got the cables from LMC, the line and gas tank from a salvage yard. I still have the LWB springs and no bumper. I plan to get some SWB springs so I can run a bumper in the future. I'll post what few pics I have next......
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Paul '78 GMC Serria 15 Heavy Half. 361/NV3500/3.73. Former LWB NV3500 swap Trailing arm swap '98 ECSB Z71 daily driver -traded '03 burb. Family cruiser http://upstategmtrucks.com/ |
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