P.O.R. 15 info - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

James McClure · 01-06-2008, 06:19 AM

Morning all. I have seen a few references to POR 15 and see a few problems with how it's being used and how surfaces to be coated are being prepaired.
POR needs a "tooth". The surface does not need to be rusty enough for you to actually see the rust. Once steel is exposed to the air it starts rusting right away and thats all the rust POR needs to work as designed.
Prep is simple but a royal pain. Sandblast everything to be coated. It doesen't need to be right down to pure gray, dark spots are ok, BUT, make sure there is NO rust flake, they will peel off. Next spray the POR so you have an even thickness (brush on isn't the way to go here). At 65 to 70 degrees shoot the first coat, wait 2 hours and shoot it again and wait for it to tack to a point where it feels slightly sticky but doesen't color your fingertip when you touch it. Now shoot it with epoxy primer and wait for that to tack up and then paint it with a good acrilic enamel and let it cure for a day before getting into bolting stuff back on. POR is NOT UV protected and MUST be painted over to protect it from UV radiation. Follow the coating\painting procedure above. If you don't you'll have to scuff the surfaces you let dry to long to get paint to stick to the POR. POR is tough so scuffing is a chore. Been there done that, NO fun.
If I ever do another total restore I'm going to disassemble the frame and spray everything with S.E.M. bedliner material and see how that works. jim

01-06-2008, 06:19 AM	#1
James McClure One shot, one kill. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Saratoga Springs NY Posts: 859	P.O.R. 15 info Morning all. I have seen a few references to POR 15 and see a few problems with how it's being used and how surfaces to be coated are being prepaired. POR needs a "tooth". The surface does not need to be rusty enough for you to actually see the rust. Once steel is exposed to the air it starts rusting right away and thats all the rust POR needs to work as designed. Prep is simple but a royal pain. Sandblast everything to be coated. It doesen't need to be right down to pure gray, dark spots are ok, BUT, make sure there is NO rust flake, they will peel off. Next spray the POR so you have an even thickness (brush on isn't the way to go here). At 65 to 70 degrees shoot the first coat, wait 2 hours and shoot it again and wait for it to tack to a point where it feels slightly sticky but doesen't color your fingertip when you touch it. Now shoot it with epoxy primer and wait for that to tack up and then paint it with a good acrilic enamel and let it cure for a day before getting into bolting stuff back on. POR is NOT UV protected and MUST be painted over to protect it from UV radiation. Follow the coating\painting procedure above. If you don't you'll have to scuff the surfaces you let dry to long to get paint to stick to the POR. POR is tough so scuffing is a chore. Been there done that, NO fun. If I ever do another total restore I'm going to disassemble the frame and spray everything with S.E.M. bedliner material and see how that works. jim __________________ 1984 K20 350M engine with 465,000 miles. Well, it's finally done!! Almost 2 years of work, but it was really worth the effort. Little stuff left to do is mount winch, wet sand & buff out and build belly pan\running boards. Body work takes lots and LOTS of beer!!!! God, Guts and Guns made America and God, Guts and Guns will preserve it! The worst thing you could do is get into my sights, but that don't matter, you'll never know it, cause you'll never hear the shotJim or Paladin whichever you choose.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.