60-62 clutch/brake combo master cylinder SWAP to ft discs and power??? clutch MC?

[Chuck78]

more clearance than the picture shows to the valve covers, although it is close to the breather/fill cap. Thought about swapping that valve cover tot he other side, but although it's a bit close, it's no issue whatsoever and I could have run a 9" booster.

With the aftermarket setups, they appear (I now realize) to use a plate to bolt into the three bolt pattern where the old master bolted to. I drilled new holes through the firewall to mount my new booster bracket, which took some slight planning, as I was drilling through several double paneled areas, and the inside panels have lots of contours and hollow spots. The bracket fab was the most time consuming part, pushrod planning and assembly was second. There seems to be no straightforward, of the shelf answer to those, but it wasn't terribly difficult with minor MIG welding skills and some basic fabrication know-how.
With a 1-1/8" bore master and stock pedal pivot location, the power brakes (esp. with a dual diaphragm booster!) are pretty darn touchy now, and I have no problem stopping REALLY FAST. Rears lock up first, but not so much that it's a problem. I do have extra weight in the rear, being a panel truck, so maybe it'd be worse with a pickup bed. Something to consider. With this power swap, front discs seem now to be a slightly lower priority.

I like this setup because it looks stock, and uses the stock linkages. Although the quick take up masters work better (less drag), and the Wilwood remote capable mini-master are fancy and billet and probably easier swap, I wanted to keep with a somewhat period look. Plastic reservoirs don't look right on vintage Detroit sheetmetal! The clutch stuff was really a direct bolt on, after drilling out the two dimples in the firewall, and disassembling to remove the little residual valve! Brake lines and the booster stuff were a bit of work, but not frustrating or terribly difficult.