6.0 vortec 72blazer 350 trans 205 tc

[Super73]

The good thing is you can use your factory trans / t-case. I don't know what a TH350 converter bolt pattern looks like compared to the one coming with the motor (if there is one) but Hughes as well as several other companies make adapter flexplate that have the Gen3/4 crank shaft bolt pattern and the older style converter bolt pattern on it. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-HP4004X/

You will be able to get 5 of the bellhousing bolts bolted up to mate the old trans to the new motor. I have run an old 80E that way for 4+ years.

You have the option of staying carbed with Edelbrocks different kits but I wouldn't:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7118/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2908/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-71181/

To run the factory fuel injection you are going to need a high pressure fuel pump and regulator. A lot of people run a factory C5 fuel pressure regulator because you can stick it anywhere in the line, it's cheap to buy and easy to source. The fuel pump, I personally prefer inline pumps like a walbro unit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPN-GSL392/

So we have covered trans issues and fuel issues (and spark if you go with the edelbrock system), so let's talk spark for the factory set up. In all reality there are only a few things that need wired to run (if memory serves). Once these are hooked up, the factory PCM will control spark to the coil packs.:

Fuel pump relay (should be an output from the PCM for your relay)
Two ignition feeds to the PCM (key on ignition to the PCM, both red and blue need power, put the power through a relay)
Starter solenoid (Big purple wire in the factory harness)


Now, there should be a factory antitheft control device preprogramed in to the pcm and that will need to be removed or bypassed. Any local tuning shop or mail order guy could remove it for you.

You also should wire up the OBD2 port and wire in a service enging soon light so you know if there are any issues.

You also need to have two bungs welded in to your exhaust for the front Narrow Band O2 sensors, the rear two after cat ones can be disabled in the pcm when the tuner removes the anith theft system. While they are at it, you probably want them to remove most if not all smog related junk in the tune, set your gear/tire combo, things like that.

I might be forgetting something but that's the real basic deal. There is a lot more you can do, but that is entirely up to you.