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05-21-2012, 12:52 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Visalia CA
Posts: 118
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Have a spindle question????!!!! Click here
Ok so im tired of hearing questions that have miles of answeres while still leaving questions... so here we go.
Wanna lower your truck without cutting springs? Ready to do it right with lowering spindles? GOOD CHOICE. Theyre are a good 7 companys that sell lowering spindles and about 20 over seas companys that will rob you. So the question u need to ask yourself is..... How much is your life worth? Ur wifes? Ur childs? Dont buy the no name spindles!! They may last 40 years, maybe 4 miles. tons of users have proven the use of jdm or ground force spindles with no problems. Lmc brand spindle buyers report the spindle shaft (for us brake-rotor/hub combo guys) spindle shafts are 2 different leanths thus tire back spacing is off. (one tire sticks out more than the other).... --Im unsure of when chevy switch from a brakerotor/hub combo to disk and hub setup. Any one know?? Ill add it in. Theyre are 2 things to consider when buying spindles, over all castings (more webs the better) and steering arm/ knuckle thickness. Stronger the better. Jdms go for $200-350usd depending on sales/ place. Groundforce average 400. Ok so groundforce no question right? No. Groundforce offers up to 2.5in drop where as jdm does not offer 2.5 only 3in drop. (correct me if wrong but i looked for years and thats what i found...but i could b wrong, i admit i dont know everything pun intended) Another point: to those running 15 in rims please note the following: ---the lower a-arm's lip furthest to the curb MAY contact the inside wall of the rim depending on your backspacing. (i had a pic but cannot find it) Many users solve this issue with a grinder, some last forever without failure HOWEVER 2 (two) users DID report a-arm failure after grinding away the metal to allow clearence. so once again, ONLY SAFE solution: Be prepared to buy new rims or run spacers.((I DO NOT CONDONE THE USE OF SPACERS, I THINK THEY ARE HORRIBLE AND SHOULD NEVER BE USED, BUT THATS PERSONAL PREFERENCE.)) SECOND 15IN RIM ISSUE://////see pic #1-3/////// --The upper brake house may contact the inside of the rim causing the wheel to not fully mount onto lugs. **OR may seem fine at first and upon rolling wheel, then will suddenly lock due to contact. **= especially for us alum/mag rim users, the mags are notorious for having "wavy" inside wells due to poopy castings. ONLY solution: Please note i did NOT say "ONLY SAFE solution:" ---Take a grinder WITH SAFTEY GLASSES and remove the amount of casting thats in the way. Be ready to mount, un mount the wheel 100+ times to ensure just enough metal is removed...not too much, not too little. THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!!! when things get hot they expand/"grow" so u need to remove enough steel that when the spindle AND rim get hot and expand, there will be enough clearance. For this use the 3layer construction paper rule. Take 3 sheets of construction paper and wedge it in the space, if its LOOSE and moves FREELY it SHOULD be okay. .....to be continued |
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