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10-30-2012, 11:07 PM | #1 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: San Diego ca
Posts: 717
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Buddy Buckets all the problems and the fixes.
So over the past few years with the gaining popularity of these seats and there ridiculous price... I came up with solutions to alot of the common problems (shortfalls) of the seats as far as convenience. Also too kind of remedy the steep prices of the small pieces that are commonly broken or wore out. Also the steps to the " popular folding or tilting seats. In all actuality they are the same seats just one year of big DOT safety mandates brought about the change. So here are the changes and the instructions to do these mods. Hope this helps somebody.
First of all the cab support bracket price between 25-60 dollars... remedy. Redrill the four holes holding the C- clamps forward shifting the buddy seat back. This will rest the back of the seat firmly against the cab which looks ten times better. And if you say it will rub off the paint every bench/ bucket seat rest against the cab. Then the buddy seat clamps that hold the seat agaist the frame and in place....cost between 25-60 dollars. Remedy.... Conduit straps.. available at any home improvement/ Electrical supply stores. Price about 5 bucks for all four and a little black paint. And seriously who would crawl under your seat to inspect. http://www.elecdirect.com/catalog/bf...f6148ffc7.aspx Sliders self explanatory, Price up to 150 dollars and rising. The originals are hard to find when you do someone will try to bend you over for the price. Remedy... any universal slider and alot of power sliders work. Remedy.... heres one example- http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Univer...ders,7103.html Price 25 dollars. And then the folding or tilting seats. All early 67 seats fold forward in late 67 and in 1968 DOT mandates changed and folding unlocking folding seats went away. Along with small back glass for visibility requirements. Well here are the steps to do this modification to your non folding seats. First step cut the weld at the junction of the seats. Step 2. Separate the seats and grind the welds smooth. Step 3. Reassemble the seats and slide a bolt with a nyloc nut through the pre existing hole. Use Grade 8 hardware to ensure it is the strongest it can be. Step 4. To ensure the seat will recline to the degree of your liking weld a nut atop the existing hole in the seat back to make it adjustable. The weld two 90 degrees peices to the seat back so the bolt will have a surface to rest against to stop it. Repeat this step on both side so one side doesnt sag or lean. That it for now and as far as the seat frame goes I had a local race car shop with a pipe bender, bend up the pipes off my measurements then I welded it up. Cost 40 dollars instead of 200-250. Here are some pics... |
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