Quote:
Originally Posted by factorystock
Thanks for posting photos, I find period rims to be an interesting subject. There are different versions of wheels, even though the sizes are the same. The 17.5" wheel attached to vehicle is a 1960 thru 1968 version of the 17.5" The 17.5 sitting loose is the 1956 thru 1959 version. The center sections have a different offset, due to straight axle vs. IFS suspensions. The white 3 piece 15" 8 lug was the 1960 thru early 1965 wheel (this one was recalled by GM and replaced with 2 piece 15" 8 lug). The 16" 2 piece 8 lug (red wheel) came out in 1965 and used thru 1968. The white 16" 8 lug with bumps is the 1969 thru 1972 version. The main reason for lock ring wheels is you didn't need a machine to stretch the bead of a heavy duty 8 or 10 bias ply tire over a rim, you just slide the new tire over the smooth end of the open rim and then install lock ring. The other reason is tubes ( required on lock ring wheels) hold air pressure better in rugged conditions ( driving over curbs or large rocks). Tubeless tires are more prone to loosing air pressure in rugged use.
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Thanks for the info. The six hole two piece rim is mounted on my tilt top trailer. The tire is a bias 12 ply that came from a lowboy trailer. you could never stretch the bead of that tire over a rim. I found a place where I could buy a hub to mount a 6 hole chevy rim . on a house trailer axle. The 14.5,s are history. I grew up with lock ring wheels and fix them myself. I aint skeered. If the rims are in good shape and you use proper safety measures its easy & safe.