Re: Soffseal door rubber
Quote:
Originally Posted by e015475
"It seems like the tightest part was near the hinges"
I didn't measure mine at the hinges, just around the window and down the side of the 'B' pillar.
The seal on the hinge side will have the most force to compress it and is unlikely to be the cause of the door not closing properly, so I'm not too worried about the clearance there.
"What do you guys think?"
I'm going to assume the measurements you posted are off one decimal point. For instance "1.92" is really .192"
Your dimensions vary more than mine - I didn't have anything less than .180" or more than .350"
The .435" measurement at the front of the passenger door concerns me with a 7/16" seal. 7/16" is .438", and if the gap is .435", that's only .003" of seal compression or about the thickness of a piece of paper - not much compression of the seal, less than 1%. Unlike most every other material on the planet, rubber contracts with heat (assuming the seal is rubber in the first place) and you might find yourself with a leaky door this summer.
I'd be tempted to buy the $28 Soffseal and see if you could make it work and if you had problems, rip it out and bite the bullet for the thinner Steele seal.
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I agree about trying the softseal first as it is so cheap.
Last edited by Zippi; 02-25-2020 at 08:23 AM.
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